VBAR SWASH SETTINGS (140)

[borntofly]

Hi all,


I have recieved some PM's regarding swash numbers for V-bar on the G4 and E720.


I have tried a few different combinations and i have found these work the best.


In the swash tab, select the doctors hat to create your own swash.


For the Angle you want to type these numbers in:


CH1 = 270
CH2 = 135
CH3 = 45
CH4 = 0


And for the Distance:


CH1 = 70
CH2 = 99
CH3 = 99
CH4 = 0


Cheers!

[conetica]

Thanks for that Marco, got a G4 kit comming so your settings will come in handy.

[jwatts007]

Changed the setting all to a 100 in the distance boxes (had too reduce the cyclic ring after doing this)...reason I did this is the model must have mechanical mixing done through the bell cranks...otherwise how else would it fly FB or with a FBL unit that never had the setting the distance option...by setting the CH1 ELE too 70 in the V Bar and CH2 and CH3 too 99 isnt the ELE trying to get there faster than the other 2 servos causing a brief moment when the servo are fighting each other...this may be the cause of the mounts breaking...when I first built the model I had a Beast X fitted set too 140deg and no problems...the mounts started breaking when the V bar was fitted within a few flights in fact....

[jwatts007]

This is how too measure a 135deg swash...the G4s swash is the same as this...if this method of measuring it is used the setting in the distance boxes must be equal ie set at a 100...by setting the ELE too 70 surely things must go out of order...and cannot be correct....

[borntofly]

I have flow these numbers for hundreds of flights across many machines, never broke a servo mount.

Another combo that works quite well is 72, 100, 100. I have been flying this on one of my machines for quite some time now and in my opinion the first numbers fly better, for me anyway. Not a great deal in it though. Others may be of a different oppinion. Try both, see what you like.

Fly on!!

[beans07]

Originally Posted by jwatts007

This is how too measure a 135deg swash...the G4s swash is the same as this...if this method of measuring it is used the setting in the distance boxes must be equal ie set at a 100...by setting the ELE too 70 surely things must go out of order...and cannot be correct....

No reason not to believe borntofly he is factory sponsored pilot for TT and the current World 2012 3D Masters Expert class # 1 and China 3D Masters Expert class #1 both in first year of competition flying.

[jwatts007]

Well I am just an average John who flies in his local club for fun...but maths are maths the same the world over...now look at the diagram of the 135 swash...all 3 balls should be set equal distance from the centre main shaft..if you think I am am wrong please explain how and why...I welcome your input....

Its 28mm from the ELE ball too the main shaft...now put a straight edge across the front 2 balls and then you will find they too are 28mm from the shaft...now measure the distance between the 2 front balls...you get 71mm...minus 15mm for the main shaft leaves us 56mm....sorry lads but this is correct the distances in the V Bar should be all the same...and using the 70-99-99 configuration maybe why my ELE mount has broken 4 times now...it may also be why the E720 fellas are having pitching issues and having too run low gains but hey ho who am I too say...

[borntofly]

Originally Posted by jwatts007

Well I am just an average John who flies in his local club for fun...but maths are maths the same the world over...now look at the diagram of the 135 swash...all 3 balls should be set equal distance from the centre main shaft..if you think I am am wrong please explain how and why...I welcome your input....

Its 28mm from the ELE ball too the main shaft...now put a straight edge across the front 2 balls and then you will find they too are 28mm from the shaft...now measure the distance between the 2 front balls...you get 71mm...minus 15mm for the main shaft leaves us 56mm....sorry lads but this is correct the distances in the V Bar should be all the same...and using the 70-99-99 configuration maybe why my ELE mount has broken 4 times now...it may also be why the E720 fellas are having pitching issues and having too run low gains but hey ho who am I too say...

I think you may be getting a little worked up over nothing, no offence. I merely posted up numbers that have worked for me, and many others for a long time, with no ill effects. To suggest that these numbers are the cause of your elevator mounts breaking is Ludacris. I as well as many others I know, have been using these numbers with no such problems.
This is not to say you, or anyone else can't use whatever numbers you like. Feel free, I just posted them as a helpful guide for people using vbar with this heli.

[schmuak]

Hi. I too believe that swash settings breaking the elevator mount is ludicrous. I have been flying with the settings posted by Borntofly since day one and am completely confident of my G4. I fly with a Vbar silverline. Thanks Borntofly.

I did notice though that when i fold the blades and store them with the sponge blade holders, there is very little clearance at the elevator servo. If you accidentally power up the heli in this position, the elevator mount might get damaged.

[jwatts007]

Originally Posted by borntofly

I think you may be getting a little worked up over nothing, no offence. I merely posted up numbers that have worked for me, and many others for a long time, with no ill effects. To suggest that these numbers are the cause of your elevator mounts breaking is Ludacris. I as well as many others I know, have been using these numbers with no such problems.
This is not to say you, or anyone else can't use whatever numbers you like. Feel free, I just posted them as a helpful guide for people using vbar with this heli.

knowone is getting worked up this end marco...hope the same applies to your end...as ludicrous as it is something has broken them 4 times now...and what ever it is that causing it is applying a lot of power to do so...I have a beefed up rear mount that I have had made this just resulted in the front mount breaking and the servo lugs breaking off from the beefed up mount...this has happened twice...so where is this amount of force coming from if not the servos being out of whack...the only thing I can find that is wrong is the distance settings...do you agree that a 135 swash has the balls at equal throws or distances form the main shaft..(look at page 29 in the instruction manual)...or do you still think that the way you measured it is correct...whether you have damaged your heli or not it does not matter...I damaged mine the last time it could have led too a nasty incident...I have checked my blade caddy and that's not it neither has it been powered up with the blades folded...I have checked the size of the mounts like you said and they are fine too...so wheres is this mysterious force coming from it is certainly not my hard 3D I wish it was...it must be from the servos...

Too say our servo cannot break the mounts is plain wrong the other evening while out flying I broke the control shaft part number HN7023A on my 700 I heard it snap but at the time did not know what it was...I lost orientation and gave it a thumb full too get it away from the pits...i would not have believed it myself but it happened...maybe the JR8917 HV and JR8925 HVs are just too much for my helis.....

[heraldo]

Originally Posted by jwatts007

knowone is getting worked up this end marco...hope the same applies to your end...as ludicrous as it is something has broken them 4 times now...and what ever it is that causing it is applying a lot of power to do so...I have a beefed up rear mount that I have had made this just resulted in the front mount breaking and the servo lugs breaking off from the beefed up mount...this has happened twice...so where is this amount of force coming from if not the servos being out of whack...the only thing I can find that is wrong is the distance settings...do you agree that a 135 swash has the balls at equal throws or distances form the main shaft..(look at page 29 in the instruction manual)...or do you still think that the way you measured it is correct...whether you have damaged your heli or not it does not matter...I damaged mine the last time it could have led too a nasty incident...I have checked my blade caddy and that's not it neither has it been powered up with the blades folded...I have checked the size of the mounts like you said and they are fine too...so wheres is this mysterious force coming from it is certainly not my hard 3D I wish it was...it must be from the servos...

Too say our servo cannot break the mounts is plain wrong the other evening while out flying I broke the control shaft part number HN7023A on my 700 I heard it snap but at the time did not know what it was...I lost orientation and gave it a thumb full too get it away from the pits...i would not have believed it myself but it happened...maybe the JR8917 HV and JR8925 HVs are just too much for my helis.....

I think the fault lies within your building or something you are doing.
You have had it happen so many times, and when you beef up the back, the front breaks. It can't be the Vbar settings, no way, no how.
The fact that you ha your control shaft on your 700 also snap in flight also points to something you are doing wrong.
Sorry, not to mean any offense at all, but its you, not the helicopter, not the Vbar.


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[Glenn Goodlett]

I am currently finishing the build of a G4.1 and installing a silver line vbar. So is there a consensus for the correct numbers for the swash values? I guess the distance values are the only thing in question. This is all new to me since all of my other builds have been 120 degree swash set ups.

Thank in advance

Glenn