CSM Carbsmart setup

[WillJames]

It is very cool that Ed sent you that to test Bob.

Preservation and power for the glow engine and especially the noob are very important.

[Tim Smith]

I've got a CSM carb smart waiting for at the shop I go to Down in Glenndale I have a few other minor repairs to do from my first crash with my 600 . The Spktrum DS 821 servos failed me.
But here is my question .should the carb smart be plugged into a regulator ? Does it draw much juice from your flight pack? I have these (sanyo 5 cell nimh 2700 mah) ,they are pretty weak ,or so it seems.I bet after you put 3 8717 servos and a 8900g & 8711,should I change out the flight batt for a stronger higher rated pack? Tell me true.
And what servo do you recomend for the carb smart would say a 3400 g or a 3900g work?

[Finless]

I guess you didnt watch the video? I show what servo I used. A cheap HS65HB. You dont need a super strong servo for this application.

5S nicad pack? Why are you not using the 2in1? If you go 8717's you may want to go 2S 2200ma lipo and a 6amp reg minimum.

Bob

[Tim Smith]

I just watched all 3 of em thanks I was coming back to edit out some stuff from my reply to your thread .

I don't have the two in one on my heli yet and the servos are being installed this week to replace my less than adequate Spektrum servo's.( I have a posted my experience with that in 600n thread) I actualy received this heli from a friends Hobby shop as a pre -Built and was told it was checked out and ready to go ,And built by the best heli guy in town and they told me it would work and fly just fine and not to worry . So I am completly up dateing this heli with the two in one Regulator igniter and ect .ect ect servos and ect gov. and carb smart. I am bearly on my 6 th gallon of nitro with it.Have been flying great with NADA problem till my Servos all started crapping out ,But only during flight as a result of the higher Vibration at higher RPM's (This is my best
asymalation , of the situation) Carb Smart seems like a very Smart device to create for our heli's . Do you think that some one some where will address the issue of Static dischrage as well

[TheBum]

Originally Posted by Finless

Just got a chance to test it yesterday. I had to shorten the link to the servo so it would go a 2 more clicks lean as it was running full lean the entire time. Once I did that I could really feel the performance. I guess I was running a little rich manually the entire time!

Was there a particular reason that you shortened the link instead of readjusting the servo horn on the needle valve knob, or was it just the quicker thing to do? It seems to me that you'd no longer have parallel horn throws (assuming the radii from center to ball were the same).

[huskynox]

Bob, please keep us informed if you have any sensor problems, like if it fails... If you get a ton of flights out of yours we will all know that your install is the way to go with the silicone trick. Thanks!

[magicmalik19]

how do you guys actually know that your running full lean while your flying? Are you flying without a canopy and sorta trying to peak at the servo horn in a hover or something? Im guessing that the carb smart doesnt actually show the fullest lean and rich position it recorded during a flight, does it? I would think that its kinda hard to see where the servo horn is during flight.
Also, Bob at the mid position of the carbsmart, how many turns out is your needle?

[Finless]

Originally Posted by TheBum

Was there a particular reason that you shortened the link instead of readjusting the servo horn on the needle valve knob, or was it just the quicker thing to do? It seems to me that you'd no longer have parallel horn throws (assuming the radii from center to ball were the same).

I could have MOVED the arm on the mixture knob but I only need to ge a little more lean so I just shortened the link which did the SAME thing... You can do it either way my friend! They both achieve the same result.

Bob

[Finless]

Originally Posted by huskynox

Bob, please keep us informed if you have any sensor problems, like if it fails... If you get a ton of flights out of yours we will all know that your install is the way to go with the silicone trick. Thanks!

Will do! If it fails I for sure will let you know as I know you have had some issues man.... If mine does please trust that I will be honest about it! So far so good with 7 flights.

Bob

[TheBum]

Originally Posted by Finless

I could have MOVED the arm on the mixture knob but I only need to ge a little more lean so I just shortened the link which did the SAME thing... You can do it either way my friend! They both achieve the same result.

Fair enough. It's just that you're normally such a stickler about keeping everything at 90 degrees that I was surprised you made an adjustment that was contrary to that stance.

[Finless]

Originally Posted by TheBum

Fair enough. It's just that you're normally such a stickler about keeping everything at 90 degrees that I was surprised you made an adjustment that was contrary to that stance.

Well that is a good point! But because I adjusted the servo travel for the Carb Smart and lowered the throw, I felt this simple adjustment was all that was needed. But YES... if you want it right and 90, then move the arm on the needle valve.

Bob

[TheBum]

Originally Posted by magicmalik19

how do you guys actually know that your running full lean while your flying? Are you flying without a canopy and sorta trying to peak at the servo horn in a hover or something? Im guessing that the carb smart doesnt actually show the fullest lean and rich position it recorded during a flight, does it? I would think that its kinda hard to see where the servo horn is during flight.

That's a very good question and I haven't seen an answer yet. I'm assuming you could see the position of the horn on the needle knob while in a hover or immediately after landing, while still idling.

[magicmalik19]

yea I would like to know.. even if you looked at it while idling, the engine would have enough time to cool down some while you walk to it and get a chance to look. Im sure the carbsmart reacts pretty quickly to temp changes so i doubt you would be able to see where the needle was before you landed. Im just curious how you guys are coming to the conclusion that its flying full lean the entire time and that you need to add more travel.

[lakespinner2]

It is a little hard to see it moving in flight unless you're comfortable flying it very hard and very close (which I'm not).

One thing I tried that works pretty well is to take a bright yellow zip tie (tiewrap), cut it in half and fasten it to the carb needle (with string and tape) and let it stick down below the edge of the canopy. It will read kinda backwards since it's sticking down instead of up like the needle horn. But, it does let you see it moving at much further distances.

It's not an elegant way to see it moving but it works pretty well.

[Finless]

I land quickly and look where it is. It doesnt change all that fast at 50% gain.

Bob

[KORN]

QUOTE "One thing I tried that works pretty well is to take a bright yellow zip tie (tiewrap), cut it in half and fasten it to the carb needle (with string and tape) and let it stick down below the edge of the canopy. It will read kinda backwards since it's sticking down instead of up like the needle horn. But, it does let you see it moving at much further distances."

Sort of like this wiretie pointer and rich/lean marks on my Bergen...the little metal JR wire ties work good also and just bolt on the carbsmart arm

[skigolfmike]

I think CarbSmart is pretty neat. If/When I get a nitro heli, I'll definitely have that on my short list of accessories.

I've got a ton of 2 cycle tuning experience with models and racing karts. My only concern is starting up lean. All the 2 cycle engines I've tuned need to be rich when they are cold and lean when they are hot. (To a point - too lean is always bad.) I can tell you from experience it's very easy to cold stick a kart engine because it's too lean. Other than that, once the engine is running and is up to temp, IMHO, the CarbSmart is a good thing.

From my experience, the ideal way to do this is to measure cylinder head temperature (CHT) and exhaust gas temperature (EGT). OTOH, a system like that would be pretty complex and would probably be overkill. Anyone here know what it means when the CHT goes up and the EGT is going down. What about when the CHT goes down and the EGT goes up.

[montarok]

Thanks Bob, for all the info and especially the videos, they made things a lot easier for a guy like me that has no patience. This hobby is fun because of guys like you.

[TheBum]

Bob: Were you able to install the sensor with the engine still in the heli or did you pull the engine to install it?

I'm trying to decide if having the engine still in the heli would likely hinder my sensor installation. I hate the job of pulling and reinstalling the engine, so if I can avoid it, I'd be quite happy.

[Finless]

I installed it while still in the heli. Did you watch my video? I show where I installed it on the bottom of the heli. You want to use a good cleaner to get the head clean. I used a spray can of brake cleaner.

Bob