my first time beastx setup questions

[thruster]

Seems most 300x pilots move the beastx out of the lower stock position to the platform behind the servos. So if this is best I'm going ahead with it now.

[andycrazy]

I moved mine to make it easier for me to programme the unit. As to performance there is no difference between the two positions. I also only moved mine while I was repairing the heli after a crash - I would not waste time moving it for the sake of it. If it aint broke dont fix it!

If you do move it make sure you go through the AR7200 set up as all sensor directions will be reversed also piro optimisation will need checking (I think this was reversed as well but cant remember for certain), also double check servo directions in the TX as I think I had to change these as well.

[thruster]

Originally Posted by andycrazy

I also only moved mine while I was repairing the heli after a crash -
If you do move it make sure you go through the AR7200 set up as all sensor directions will be reversed also piro optimisation will need checking (I think this was reversed as well but cant remember for certain), also double check servo directions in the TX as I think I had to change these as well.

Same with me. Had a bad crash last summer. Rebuilt it quickly and finally now wanting to get her flying again. So I will be doing a complete fresh setup with newly installed servos. Thank you for the tips! Just now pried out the beast gyro, cleaned it and laid new tape on the upper platform. Mounting it right now.

[thruster]

Getting ready to begin the beastx setup after a re-build with new servos and new speed control. The spektrum ar7200bx manual says to use a fresh new model in the transmitter or I suppose one that has been reset to defaults. Are there good reasons to do this even if the old transmitter settings were working fine?

[Nelsonisms]

Originally Posted by thruster

Getting ready to begin the beastx setup after a re-build with new servos and new speed control. The spektrum ar7200bx manual says to use a fresh new model in the transmitter or I suppose one that has been reset to defaults. Are there good reasons to do this even if the old transmitter settings were working fine?

It shouldn't be necessary. Switching servos sometimes requires you to change reverse settings in the transmitter and/or the FBL system. So just make sure you disengage all the ball links so it doesn't bind up when you first turn it on. Also make sure the travel adjusts in the radio are all set to 100/100, etc. The only endpoints you may need to adjust are those for the throttle if you use them to calibrate for your ESC.

[thruster]

Originally Posted by Nelsonisms

So just make sure you disengage all the ball links so it doesn't bind up when you first turn it on.

All good tips, especially this one, thanks!

[andycrazy]

I used my original model in the tx when I changed the servos and esc in both my 450x and 300x without any problems. When you have finished dont forget to do a rebind to set the failsafe.

[thruster]

Okay, back at it again here. With my transmitter on, I just connected a battery to my 300x first time with 4 new servos, new YEP30 esc, and first power up since moving the beastx to the upper platform. Everything seems well and ready to run the gyro setup. The yep30 setup was done months ago with the programming card and should be good, and it initialized when powered, seems fine, just need to switch two wires for correct motor direction. The ar7200 went to a solid blue light, nothing is flashing, seems to still be binding okay as this is first time powered up since june 2014.

I was going to do the gyro setup with the motor disconnected unless someone tells me otherwise......????

[terryv83]

I did my BeastX setup with the esc disconnected using a separate battery, but usually I'll just do it with the motor connected. I don't think it matters so do what you're comfortable with.

[thruster]

Thanks for your feedback as always Terry!

[Uriah]

Yes, you can disconnect the motor when setting up the FBL unit.

[thruster]

Originally Posted by Uriah

Yes, you can disconnect the motor when setting up the FBL unit.

Thanks Uriah, I've got your guide to setup menu G which I'll be looking at when I get started later today.

[Uriah]

Originally Posted by thruster

Thanks Uriah, I've got your guide to setup menu G which I'll be looking at when I get started later today.

Cool beans! I think I've written more than one post on setup menu G (either post should point you in the right direction). I think this post (link) is the most recent one I did on the subject (it's in the 500X forum but it applies equally to the 300X - no changes needed). If you have any questions, feel free to ask them in your thread or PM me.

[thruster]

Made it through to step G, and immediately after digitally centering the last of three cyclic servos (pitch) I noticed the other two servos had moved back to where they were before centering. Not sure if that's normal.......? So I disconnected the battery to take a break, stretch, and read ahead a bit. I will need to redo menu G, but I think (hope) the previously done steps will remain as set.

So the main thing is.....when I digitally center the cyclic servos again, seems they should stay centered while I level the swashplate. And guess I just need to eyeball the swashplate rather than remove the head and use the levelor device thingy.

I pre-leveled the swash plate before today, with the servo arms at 90*, and had the servos centered using a servo tester, so my lower links should be fairly close, and my upper links will get set during the next step.

[DoubleCH]

In step G you must select a servo (status light is on, any color) in order to verify if the servos are indeed 90.

When status light is off in step G, all 3 cyclic servos go back to natural untrimmed centers.

[thruster]

Okay, I may have answered my question above with this quote below from Uriahs menu G setup guide:

"When you're in setup menu G, the black light (no light) will remove all of the digital trims, so it will appear that your swashplate and servo arms are not exactly level anymore. This is why setup menu G is so confusing for a lot of people. But the purple, red, and blue light of setup menu G will re-apply all of your trims, just like when you power up your heli and put your collective stick at exactly 50% pitch."

I'll see when I get back in there to redo menu G. But I thought the solid blue light was still on for the pitch servo when I noticed the first two servos had reverted back to where they were before being centered. But I have total faith it will get figured out soon. No worries.

[thruster]

Originally Posted by DoubleCH

In step G you must select a servo (status light is on, any color) in order to verify if the servos are indeed 90.

When status light is off in step G, all 3 cyclic servos go back to natural untrimmed centers.

Okay, I will pay more attention to that, thanks DCH! I guess when you switch to the next servo with its own status light, the previous servo returns to its out of center position unless it is selected again. I see I see now!

[thruster]

Everything is set okay up through and including step J.

In step or menu K, it says DO NOT USE USE ANY PITCH CURVES IN YOUR TRANSMITTER while doing this step at least. I'm using a DX6i. I've been in the pitch curve menu in my DX6i for a while trying make certain no pitch curves are in effect, but it's not clear how to tell.

UPDATE UPDATE!!! GOT IT! FIGURED IT OUT!

Onward to menu K.

[thruster]

Menu K is adjusting the collective pitch range. Since it gives no details on this, my instinct is to select idle up on the transmitter (motor is disconnected) so I can go to max positive pitch and set it accordingly, then max negative and set. Should I use my digital pitch gauge for this and go 12* degrees in both directions? Seems they assume I've already done this before?

Have installed the Lynx short main shaft if that makes any difference.

[thruster]

Finished all steps including N. I know there are more settings (dials and parameters) or least more instructions yet to finish. But right now Something does not look right. When I power up in normal mode (not idle up) there is a bunch of negative pitch with throttle stick all the way down. In idle up all seems well as far as pitch changes matching the collective stick position. Should the main blade pitch be near zero at power up, with throttle stick all the way down? I thought that's how it was before I crashed.

Will this correct itself after continuing in the dials and parameter settings? I have not changed any of the dials since the heli was new.


Might have to reprogram the YEP30. It's giving a flashing light error code. I think some stick movements caused it to go into program mode.