Post your "HOW DO YOU DO THAT" Questions Here

[Seasick78]

I pay attention to 3 things.... The mAh consumption, the real time voltage, and the run time counter. The 3 combined are infinitely more valuable than the old 'timer' method.

[chestcutter]

I am trying to setup Jeti DS-16 with Mezon130 lite, Mini Vbar running v5.3 and HV servos. Ideally want to use Jeti RPM sensor too.

I have set radio to 50Hz. Receiver is R7 Ex with 20ms PPM positive.

The ESC has black(throttle) cable going to Ch1 on receiver, the cyclic Channels on receiver have three way split lead from Rudd(5),Elev(3), Roll(2) going to Vbar RxA, The cyclic Ch4 going to Vbar RxB.

And ESC red cable to receiver Ext port.

When I hook up to computer Vbar setup screen I get no transmitter output to VBar?

Can anyone tell me what's not done correctly?

[Jotto]

Originally Posted by chestcutter

I am trying to setup Jeti DS-16 with Mezon130 lite, Mini Vbar running v5.3 and HV servos. Ideally want to use Jeti RPM sensor too.

I have set radio to 50Hz. Receiver is R7 Ex with 20ms PPM positive.

The ESC has black(throttle) cable going to Ch1 on receiver, the cyclic Channels on receiver have three way split lead from Rudd(5),Elev(3), Roll(2) going to Vbar RxA, The cyclic Ch4 going to Vbar RxB.

And ESC red cable to receiver Ext port.

When I hook up to computer Vbar setup screen I get no transmitter output to VBar?

Can anyone tell me what's not done correctly?

When you have PPM out, you only use one single cable from the receiver's PPM output to the V-Bar. Then connect the ESC to the V-Bar's throttle output.

By the way, you can as well set the transmitter to 100 Hz.

[chestcutter]

Thanks Jotto, I'll give it a go and let you know.

[rdalemercer]

Originally Posted by Seasick78

I pay attention to 3 things.... The mAh consumption, the real time voltage, and the run time counter. The 3 combined are infinitely more valuable than the old 'timer' method.

Thanks Josh.
While I agree, 'old habits die hard'...so I'm sure that it will take some time before I'm fully switched over to the trusting the output from the telemetry. With the flights that I have done so far, I've noticed that the data from the telemetry (mAh consumed) is off by 100~150 mAh based on what I have put back into the battery. It's not big deal, more of an observation at this point.

Have you (or others on this forum) noticed a discrepancy with either a) real time voltage or b) mAh consumed?

Dale.

[Seasick78]

Originally Posted by rdalemercer

Thanks Josh.
While I agree, 'old habits die hard'...so I'm sure that it will take some time before I'm fully switched over to the trusting the output from the telemetry. With the flights that I have done so far, I've noticed that the data from the telemetry (mAh consumed) is off by 100~150 mAh based on what I have put back into the battery. It's not big deal, more of an observation at this point.

Have you (or others on this forum) noticed a discrepancy with either a) real time voltage or b) mAh consumed?

Dale.

Haven't noticed any issues on my equipment. If there is any, it's too negligible to matter. I've been using the method stated above since I started using the JetiBox Profi and then on to the DS-16. I've never come down beyond my self imposed capacitance or voltage thresholds.

[zeeflyboy]

Remember the charger doesn't usually count mah through the balance port, and doesn't charge with 100% efficiency

[Puttputt maru]

I was using both the "old" method i.e. timer and The new at first but quickly realized that the new one is much more precise and that my timer was always/MAinly going off before the mAh limit was reach. Only on those flights where I was feeling very aggressive the timer would go off first.

What I am getting at is that the timer does not take into account at all the way you are flying. If you do an easy gentle flight or low head speed flight obviously you will fly longer. the reverse being thru as well.

Advantage of the new method:
1) longer flight most of the time
2) easier on the batteries you always stop before you drain them too much
3) might save your helicopter, if you run out of juice
4) First flight out with a new helicopter you don't worry about running out of juice

[Seasick78]

Originally Posted by Puttputt maru

I was using both the "old" method i.e. timer and The new at first but quickly realized that the new one is much more precise and that my timer was always/MAinly going off before the mAh limit was reach. Only on those flights where I was feeling very aggressive the timer would go off first.

What I am getting at is that the timer does not take into account at all the way you are flying. If you do an easy gentle flight or low head speed flight obviously you will fly longer. the reverse being thru as well.

Advantage of the new method:
1) longer flight most of the time
2) easier on the batteries you always stop before you drain them too much
3) might save your helicopter, if you run out of juice
4) First flight out with a new helicopter you don't worry about running out of juice

Absolutely agree. No more wasted flight time which means more fun!

[ArguZ]

I also would love to have a report timer .
Just announcing every minute..
The rest I do with the capacity.

[Puttputt maru]

Originally Posted by ArguZ

I also would love to have a report timer .
Just announcing every minute..
The rest I do with the capacity.

Some have a mAh "alarm' every 500 mAh for example would do the same as the timer but in a truer way. You have the Tx read out the mAh at 500,1000,1500 and so on what ever increment you wished.

There is a way to have what you ask but it requires some fiddling with the timer programming. Saw it on the German forum and I think someone here to was tinkering with it.

Again timer for electrics as far as knowing when to land are "passé" (to me anyway). I have a running timer that start when my motor switch is turned on. I am just curious of flight time I get with each heli. Time have ranged on the same heli by as much as a minute again showing that timers are not an accurate way to time your flight.

[Voyager]

I have done lots of cross checks on MaHr used and recharge capacity and it's always very close.
As stated, the balance can effect the recharge value so it is a little inflated.

I use the Jlog with a Kontronic as well as the Mezon 90.

I do still have a timer running but not announced. I just use it as a reference incase someone asks how long I was flying. Very 'old school' :-)

[marcosp]

Isn't the "motor on" time that you read from telemetry all you need to know how long the flight was? I know I have it from the Mezon, don't remember from the Jlog/Kosmik.

[Voyager]

Yes, motor time would work as well.
I had the timer left over from initial programming when I didn't have the jlog so I just left it in.
Motor time would be a cleaner way of doing the same thing.

[gelatmi1]

In the file lang.jsn under \Lang\en\ there is an error referred to the mixers.
The text SIGLE DIRECTION is wrong…it could be Single Direction.

You can fix it editing the id 284 on this file as below:

{
"id":284,
"text":"Single direction"
},

Nothing exceptional of course…but…if you want you can change all the text displayed on the Tx.

For example you can change the labels on Servo Assignment or the menu items or….
The only bad thing is that when a new fw update will be installed probably you have to re apply the changes you made !!!

[chestcutter]

Originally Posted by Jotto

When you have PPM out, you only use one single cable from the receiver's PPM output to the V-Bar. Then connect the ESC to the V-Bar's throttle output.

By the way, you can as well set the transmitter to 100 Hz.

Thanks it's all worked beautifully now.

[orthobird]

i would like to set up a throttle hold switch, anyone know how i can do this on my Jeti. under flight modes, there are 5 options: autorotation, idle 1, idle 2, default, idle 3.

[Thunder Fighter]

Originally Posted by orthobird

i would like to set up a throttle hold switch, anyone know how i can do this on my Jeti. under flight modes, there are 5 options: autorotation, idle 1, idle 2, default, idle 3.

Set the Autorotation throttle curve to be zero flat line and assign it to your preferred TH switch. It should already have the right priority to override all the other throttle curves. You can also setup an arming switch using the "throttle Cut" function and assigning that to a switch and it will override all other throttle commands. I use a lock toggle switch which you can get as an accessory as it can't be knocked by accident.

If you are going to use your autorotate with a bailout system you may need to set the curve a little higher so it doesn't reset the bailout, but that will depend on which ESC and governor you are using.

//Dennis.

[orthobird]

i could not find autorotation, but i did figure it out.
i set up 4 modes:
1. normal
2. idle 1
3. idle 2
4. throttle hold

the 1.2.3 above, is assigned to one switch (SA)

then throttle hold assigned to SH

then, i went into another menu, and assigned "throttle cut" to that switch (SH). now this overrides all others. when this is on, the others do not work.

then, i went to heli fine tuning
then to curves,
and on curve for normal (switch was in position for normal), i made it 5 point curve, and set it up so that at low stick, there is no throttle, at 2/8, throttle kicks in, and by 49% stick, it is at max throttle i want for it.

then i moved the switch to idle 1, and now, i made it so that at all the way low stick, there is motor rotation, but again, with it not being too aggressive


then, switch position idle 2, i made the "curve" a flat line, all the way across, of constant velocity.

thank you thunder fire for the help.

[rossk]

I would like a switch to make the throttle go to zero and also output the rudder as -100%.
I have it working for throttle using the throttle cut function.
But what would be the best/easiest way so that switch off the rudder is as normal, then when switch on, rudder is -100%.

This is for my quad, as a kind of kill switch, when I crash, I hit hold by reflex, but often forget to disarm the motors(full left rudder).