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Old 05-21-2009, 11:49 AM   #41 (permalink)
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BECAUSE>......when you set up your maximum pitch in the gyobot itself you set the ATV at 100% and therefore you should see travel up to each endpoint...
My Take on This:
On collective pitch, you don't use the transmitter (except the rudder channel to change setting on the GB) to set the collective pitch, you set it in the GB only. Therefore you need to correlate the travel on the transmitter, to the travel on the GB using the transmitters ATV's on pitch. My transmitter ATV's are set to around 75% for collective pitch, as no movement is detected above or below this.

On cyclic the limits are also set in the GB only (swashplate limits), but as we know the radio ATV's only affect the speed of movement, not the travel limits, as both the elevator and aerilon under control of the seperate Gyros in th eGB. Therefore there is no need to correlate the GB and radio endpoints on these controls (as again ATV's only adjust speed of movement)

Quote:
if you reduce the ATV on collective it effects the pitch curve.

I believe LF was trying to say that you could make any shape pitch curve you want by adjusting your atv's on collective..
OK you got me here Jag, as far as I understand, ATV's will only set the limits of movement that can be affected by the pitch curve? Of course you could skip the ATV thing, and correltae the pitch curve to the GB collective , but I prefer to have the resolution of the entire pitch curve?
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Old 05-21-2009, 12:47 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Thinking about this some more, I guess you can use the swash limit in the Gyrobot to set the collective to absolute max and min (before touching something) and then use ATV's or pitch curve to adjust collective to whatever angle you prefer. This would mean that you don't need to go into the GB to change collective.... but you may lose some resolution in the pitch curve... guess you can play this eaither way......
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:15 PM   #43 (permalink)
 

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Originally Posted by kyalamikid View Post
Thinking about this some more, I guess you can use the swash limit in the Gyrobot to set the collective to absolute max and min (before touching something) and then use ATV's or pitch curve to adjust collective to whatever angle you prefer. This would mean that you don't need to go into the GB to change collective.... but you may lose some resolution in the pitch curve... guess you can play this eaither way......
This is Exactly what I was trying to say...I set my ATV's to 100% and then set the GB pitch to 14 degrees pos and neg...if I need to adjust the actual endpoints I just reduce the ATV's...

Since Mine was originally set up this way I get movement throughout the ENTIRE collective stick travel...When I am maxed out and I lower the collective you can see the swash moving all the way...I have NO dead zone?
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Old 05-21-2009, 01:22 PM   #44 (permalink)
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No dead zone would make perfect sense this way. I read on RR your posts on 14 degrees pitch. May be worth a try setting things up this way... does the T250 not lose too much head speed though?
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Old 05-21-2009, 02:19 PM   #45 (permalink)
 

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Default trex 250 and pitch...

you can easily un 14 degrees on that trex...If you get the Scoprion 3600kv motor you will get INSANE performance and can easily pull 15 degrees.....

Talk about power and performance

The KEY to running lots of pitch is collective management....if you manage your collective well then it doesn't matter how much pitch you run...because you run the most your machine will allow inthat specific move without over applying pitch...but that comes with skill and and a good "EAR" ...

Anthony
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Old 05-21-2009, 03:53 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Yup I have the Scorpion 2208-3600kv with 15t grubbed pinion turning 4700 rpm at 90% flat line, so I should be good to bump it up. Unfortunately my ears are not so good, but I can try...
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Old 05-22-2009, 11:36 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Default Gyrobot pitch max and min

Hi guys,
I was reading your thread and was amused how you went around the point without touching it first. . . (And no offense please)
But finally you got it.
As for the collective pitch endpoints in the menu "Swashplate Base" the manual is a bit misleading here. For this procedure your pitch value in the transmitter has to be set at 100%. Now go into "Swashplate Base" menue and just set in pitch max and pitch min ALL you can get on movement of the swashplate. (Collective)
In my case, T-Rex 500, it was around plus/minus 1450 points.
This tells the Gyrobot what your heli and servos are capable of.
For setting your your max/min pitch limit for flying, let's say +/- 12 degrees, you do this later in the transmitter by reducing or increasing the pitch values until you have your desired +/- 12 degrees.

If you don't do it this way you have this funny dead zone, what kyalamikid was talking about earlier.

Regards
ZuvieleTeile
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Old 05-22-2009, 12:07 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ZuvieleTeile View Post
Hi guys,
I was reading your thread and was amused how you went around the point without touching it first. . . (And no offense please)
But finally you got it.
As for the collective pitch endpoints in the menu "Swashplate Base" the manual is a bit misleading here. For this procedure your pitch value in the transmitter has to be set at 100%. Now go into "Swashplate Base" menue and just set in pitch max and pitch min ALL you can get on movement of the swashplate. (Collective)
In my case, T-Rex 500, it was around plus/minus 1450 points.
This tells the Gyrobot what your heli and servos are capable of.
For setting your your max/min pitch limit for flying, let's say +/- 12 degrees, you do this later in the transmitter by reducing or increasing the pitch values until you have your desired +/- 12 degrees.

If you don't do it this way you have this funny dead zone, what kyalamikid was talking about earlier.

Regards
ZuvieleTeile
Thanks ZT, an no offense taken! We are all here to learn, and I am certainly learning a lot.

Sometimes I can be a little slow, and I really like the idea that I can set my collective on the transmitter with ATV's, so yes I think the manual should treat this more similarly to the cyclic pitch.

I have a T500 that I am going to do next. How is yours working out for you?

Do you maybe have settings for a baseline setup please?
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Old 05-22-2009, 12:44 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Hi kyalamikid,
it needed a while before I got it flying clean.
I send you a zip file with an included excel sheet, where you can see all my settings.

I went through a lot of ups and downs.
The most important thing for the Gyrobot are the correct blades and soft damper rubbers at the feathering shaft when you fly headspeeds below 2500 RpM.
For questions to the blades contact me again please.
Remember those values I have on the sheet are only good for the servos I used and most of all for the servo arm length I used.
The servo arm length I used, I have from the manufacturer LF-Technik.

Please feel free to contact me with any questions you might have.
No guessing and no feeling stupid...
The whole flybarless is relatively new and we all have to go though some humps and have to support each other....

Regards
ZuvieleTeile
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Old 05-22-2009, 12:49 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Haaahhh,
I forgot to attach the file.
Here it comes.
Attached Files
File Type: zip Settings for my Bot.zip (4.6 KB, 453 views)
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Old 05-22-2009, 04:17 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Thanks ZT, there is some great detail in your settings. I see your last comment you dont seem entirely happy still with the Rudder, is just on pitch pumping?

I am using the Mavvrik G5 CF blades, did you find these OK?
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Old 05-22-2009, 08:00 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Hi kyalamikid,
only when I give it very aggressive pitch, that the heli shoots into the air, then the tail tilts down a little bit.
As for the blades I get back to you tomorrow.
I still have a busy day and this needs some more explanation.
Regards
ZT
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Old 05-23-2009, 12:28 AM   #53 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZuvieleTeile View Post
Hi kyalamikid,

As for the blades I get back to you tomorrow.
I still have a busy day and this needs some more explanation.
Regards
ZT
Thanks ZT, that would be highly appreciated!
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Old 05-26-2009, 12:24 PM   #54 (permalink)
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I have tried all of the blades I have, and all of them hang around 5mm forward to the tip. I am going to try getting the RZR blades and see if they are more neutral.

Attatched is my latest setting for the T250. I was having problems with shake on aileron in 15mph winds yesterday, so I have moved the ball on the servos from 9.5 to 8.5mm, and reset up the GB today. I will try it with the new settings in a larger flying area hopefully tomorrow.
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Old 06-07-2009, 11:22 AM   #55 (permalink)
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I have bought the cockpit,and it is much easier and quicker to change settings. I would buy the cockpit from day 1 if I was starting off with this knowing what I know now. This thing is realy working well...


A question to all flybarless users:

Paradoxically, it seems that the heli is always responding a little behind where I am on the cyclic sticks. However, when it starts moving, it moves really fast. I can raise elevator and aileron endpoints, but the things is really scary as it stands. Is there some trick to make it quicker on responses, but not as violent on maneuvers? I have noticed that the lag seems less noticable on higher head speeds (idle up vs normal)....

BTW 10% expo and 60% on ATV's currently.
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Old 06-07-2009, 12:10 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyalamikid View Post
I have bought the cockpit,and it is much easier and quicker to change settings. I would buy the cockpit from day 1 if I was starting off with this knowing what I know now. This thing is realy working well...


A question to all flybarless users:

Paradoxically, it seems that the heli is always responding a little behind where I am on the cyclic sticks. However, when it starts moving, it moves really fast. I can raise elevator and aileron endpoints, but the things is really scary as it stands. Is there some trick to make it quicker on responses, but not as violent on maneuvers? I have noticed that the lag seems less noticable on higher head speeds (idle up vs normal)....

BTW 10% expo and 60% on ATV's currently.
sounds like you need to straighten your expo out a bit on the controls that you feel are lagging. btw, where did you get the cockpit from?
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Old 06-07-2009, 12:31 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Glad to see yours is coming on well A&O. Mine is an amazing sport flyer (I am no 3D flyer), put through another 5 packs today and three yesterday.

Yes I have turned down expo to 10%, and will remove it further. My problem is this thing reacts so fast when it starts moving that it scares me! A bigger heli would probably be easier.

The club pro tried it yesterday, and gave up after nearly wiping it twice on take off and hover. He turned down the expo and got such a fright that he handed back the controls and said "Scary!".

Go the cockpit from Morris at Rnd, he is out of stock right now but try these guys:

http://elektrorc.com/index.php?cPath=28_86

Pete seems to be very helpfull.....
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Old 06-07-2009, 12:48 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyalamikid View Post
I have bought the cockpit,and it is much easier and quicker to change settings. I would buy the cockpit from day 1 if I was starting off with this knowing what I know now. This thing is realy working well...


A question to all flybarless users:

Paradoxically, it seems that the heli is always responding a little behind where I am on the cyclic sticks. However, when it starts moving, it moves really fast. I can raise elevator and aileron endpoints, but the things is really scary as it stands. Is there some trick to make it quicker on responses, but not as violent on maneuvers? I have noticed that the lag seems less noticable on higher head speeds (idle up vs normal)....

BTW 10% expo and 60% on ATV's currently.
Maybe you could try a trick which works very well with Gaui EP200 FES:

Move servo linkballs inwards (and increase ATV at the same time). This way you will utilize a bigger deal of servo's potential. It will translate to smoother controls, higher aileron & elevator gains and more stable flight.

I had similar kind of problems with my EP200 FES before I moved linkballs inwards. Controls vere hasty and too unaccurate to my taste. Now it rocks!
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Old 06-07-2009, 04:49 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Picofly View Post
Move servo linkballs inwards (and increase ATV at the same time). This way you will utilize a bigger deal of servo's potential. It will translate to smoother controls, higher aileron & elevator gains and more stable flight.
Thanks PF, I have moved the balls as far inboard as they can go on the 420 servos about a month back already. As the balls are mounted on the inside of the servo arems, they will hit the casing hub, and barely clear it now. Seem to recall they are around 8.5mm now.

Do you find the responsiveness of your 700 just as fast as the flybar was on cyclic (ail & ele)?
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Old 06-07-2009, 06:20 PM   #60 (permalink)
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I did find a good setup topic and made a printable PDF out of it:
http://www.rcheliplanet.com/index.ph...64405#msg64405
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