Best FBL head for trex600

[LoveToFly1]

ok guys, i have a trex600e that i converted to FBL a while back. with it i used the KDE head, align blade grips, and align washout arms. i like this head a lot too. (i use an IKON FBL unit for this one)

i also have a HWC 600 Gasser conversion with an RJX head on it. have not flown it yet, so cannot comment on it as of now. (i use an SK540 FBL unit for this one)

the reason that i am asking this is because like you see, i have 2 600 size helis with 2 different heads. i would like to use the same head for both, that way i dont have to buy replacement parts for two toatlly different heads. and the RJX and KDE head are a good bit different as far as dampers go, so thats double the spare parts i need....

what is the single best FBL head that you guys have found for this size heli? (2 blade head)

[Dr. M]

Out of those coices, I'd keep the RJX, and sell the KDE. The RJX design is much nicer, IMO, as opposed to the stepped FS that the KDE head uses.

I don't think there's a "single best" FBL head out there. It has to work for your heli, setup and flying style.

[LoveToFly1]

well, what i like about the KDE is the washout arms bolt directly on the head, cutting out the chance to get them installed wrong....simplicity is nice, but if the RJX head flies better, then its worth it! lol

you see what im saying right? what im trying to do is be able to buy all head parts from one supplier at one time in one order and be done with it. so i dont have to remember how to maintain and re-build two different heads and have two different suppliers, alll that mess.....know what i mean?

out of the two if i had to pick this instant, i would go with the RJX too, but because it only uses dampers! hahaha, no sleeve to install too. but honestly i will fly both of them for a while and go from there i guess, unless someone knows of just some incredible fbl head for the 600 size heli that i can use.

[Ah Clem]

TracX:



Flexible drive tubes that allow flapping (uses actual dampers), easy to set up, requires no special main rotor shafts or other modifications.
(cat not included).

[LoveToFly1]

i will check into that. thanks bud.

[Daddy]

+1 on non-stepped feathering shafts...they're accidents waiting to happen.

[LoveToFly1]

Originally Posted by Daddy

+1 on non-stepped feathering shafts...they're accidents waiting to happen.

I think dr. M was saying he liked the non-stepped feathering shafts...

So the rjx head doesn't use the standard algin feathering shaft either? I hadn't noticed that yet.

[Dr. M]

Oh no. The stepped FS design is less than ideal. I was trying to say the constant diameter FS is better and the RJX head uses one.

[nightflyr]

There was a mod a while back, that had the swash follower arms directly mounted to the RJX head block.

The tracx head is also a good option

[LoveToFly1]

Originally Posted by Ah Clem

TracX:



Flexible drive tubes that allow flapping (uses actual dampers), easy to set up, requires no special main rotor shafts or other modifications.
(cat not included).

isnt this a bad thing? am i missing something guys? i thought the whole point was no flapping and no play in the feathering shaft? or the least play possible anyway.....right?

lol, im so confused!

[LoveToFly1]

Originally Posted by nightflyr

There was a mod a while back, that had the swash follower arms directly mounted to the RJX head block.

The tracx head is also a good option

if i could mount the swash follower arms directly to the RJX head that would be nice! do you know where the mod would be located?

[LoveToFly1]

also, some of you may have noticed that i am selling my FB head in the for sale thread. i had a guy offer to trade me the complete head, for a complete DFC conversion for the 600e. what do you guys think about the DFC head?

what is the exact point of it? just to lower the head, or give more roll rate responose? because i really dont need any more roll, i already have mine turned down a bit, i dont do 3d....is there anything special about the DFC?

[Daddy]

Lol... it sounded good in my mind when I typed it! But reading my post and it's backwards!

Should have been,
"+1 on non-stepped feathering shafts...stepped shafts are accidents waiting to happen."

i dohn't no wat hapned

[LoveToFly1]

Originally Posted by Daddy

Lol... it sounded good in my mind when I typed it! But reading my post and it's backwards!

Should have been,
"+1 on non-stepped feathering shafts...stepped shafts are accidents waiting to happen."

i dohn't no wat hapned

lol! i thought thats what you meant, i just wanted to be very sure! lol

[Ah Clem]

"isnt this a bad thing? am i missing something guys? i thought the whole point was no flapping and no play in the feathering shaft? or the least play possible anyway.....right?

lol, im so confused!"

Yes, you are missing something.

You want the ability of the head to flap, for several reasons:

1) It flies better (centers better, and is smoother in flight)
2) It allows another area of tuning (soft dampers for softer cyclic response, firm dampers for quicker response).
3) It allows a larger variation in head speed (softer dampers will allow the use of lower head speeds before the onset of "nodding)."
4) Dampers absorb vibration

I have done a lot of damper testing for KBDD, with a variety of machines. The use of dampers and different types of dampers make a huge difference in how a machine handles (i.e. different firmness, different rate of progressiveness, etc.).

DFC heads, with their rigid links should not flap, due to the stress imposed on the ball links and swashplates during flapping. That is why you see solid dampers in DFC heads.

SZ heads (Compass/TracX), with their flexible linkage, are designed to accommodate flapping (both the Compass Head and the new Avant Mostro head are designed specifically to allow flapping).

Regarding play in the spindle-you do not want any play-this can cause vibration, erratic handling etc.

[LoveToFly1]

ok, thanks for the explination. i need to do some more reading on this, bc its not making much sense to me now...

but thank you very much for the explination. i should take that and get some softer dampers too then. sounds like that will work better for my flight style.

[LoveToFly1]

what exactly is "bobbing"? the nose going up and down, or the entire heli?

[Ah Clem]

You are welcome sir.

Sorry if I did not make it clearer.

If you try dampers of different firmness in your machine, you will instantly know what I meant.

A small thing that makes a world of difference.

[LoveToFly1]

sounds like it! lol

hey, what is bobbing? the nose or the whole heli? going up and down, right?

[Ah Clem]

Nodding/bobbing (sometimes also "wobbling") refers to the nose going up and down, rhythmically in the hover.

The is usually caused by a combination of too low of a head speed and too rigid of a head (too firm dampers or totally rigid head).