my first time beastx setup questions

[Livan75]

Originally Posted by thruster

Wow! What a sad story about the totalled SAB-570.

Glad you mentioned this.....and I was thinking similar thoughts. The few times I tried flying inverted in idle up with my old honeybee CP2, usually crashed because I was used to descending and landing in normal mode, forgot about the instant downward negative pitch thrust, and you can imagine it was just like that guys friend who wrecked his SAB-570, except it was not so expensive for me as I already had three relatively cheap CP2 airframes plus parts.

I set up my yep30 with governor OFF for now until I get used to hovering again.

YEP, it was painful to read!

You do that, gov wont do much in a hover, my second tip I got from the 450 board and that was to save the tail gear (landing on grass field) by never landing with power, just baby autoing the last feet... Letting the head speed bleed away while settling down...

Once you get used to it, the "intimidation factor" of landing with full throttle goes away and the "zero low stick" gets outdated...

[Uriah]

I do all of my takeoffs and landings in idle up. On my bigger birds I always end my flights with a full autorotation. On my smaller birds it's usually a foot high baby auto. The only reason I suggest a 0-XX-XX-XX-XX throttle curve for normal mode is for pilots who still use normal mode for takeoff and landing. It's sometimes easy to overload less experienced pilots with information, so I'm trying to learn to give them a "one step at a time" approach to some things.

As an example... I still have a normal throttle mode on all my helis, and the only use it has is an extra safety net when I power up the bird and walk it to the flight line. This way if I accidentally flip the throttle hold switch while I'm walking to the flight line, I still have the zero throttle from normal mode. Once the bird is safely on the flight line, I flip to IU1 or IU2 and then release throttle hold to spool up. I also run idle up pitch curves in all 3 modes (normal, IU1, IU2); it's usually a linear pitch curve, but on some birds with poor collective response I run V-pitch curves like 0-20-50-80-100 for more pop around center collective. A lot of pilots don't do any of this, so I'm sometimes hesitant to share such things since it may overload the reader with info they're not yet ready for.

[thruster]

I'm still here....sorting some minor issues. Got the yep30 reset, seems good. With blades on when I spin up there is fairly serious shaking of the main head. Tonight was going to replace stock red O-ring dampers with Lynx ultra dampers which I have. Check my tail gyro settings, and possibly redo the blade pitch menu/step in the ar7200bx. My work table was not level when I set the pitch before, even though I zero-ed the digital pitch gauge to the table, that may not have been good enough. Haven't been able to work on it every day, but pretty sure will have her going soon.....I hope.

[DoubleCH]

Balance blades by weight. Then dynamic balance them mounted. Check tracking. If these aren't right, harder dampers are going to amplifiy it.

I never rely on a level table to check blade pitch. That takes time set up and then you'll have to rely on heli and landing gear to be level. Too much unnecessary work yet potentially add too much error points. For my setup, as long as the heli is stable on a flat surface it's good. I first check (and adjust if necessary) zero pitch at zero collective by the fold-blade method. Only after I've verified it that I set the heli on flat stable surface, extend the blades and zero the pitch gauge and never move the heli again. When I need to turn rotor 90 degrees for further pitch checking/adjustment then I go to zero collective and re-zero pitch gauge.

[thruster]

Originally Posted by DoubleCH

Balance blades by weight. Then dynamic balance them mounted. Check tracking. If these aren't right, harder dampers are going to amplifiy it.

I never rely on a level table to check blade pitch. That takes time set up and then you'll have to rely on heli and landing gear to be level. Too much unnecessary work yet potentially add too much error points. For my setup, as long as the heli is stable on a flat surface it's good. I first check (and adjust if necessary) zero pitch at zero collective by the fold-blade method. Only after I've verified it that I set the heli on flat stable surface, extend the blades and zero the pitch gauge and never move the heli again. When I need to turn rotor 90 degrees for further pitch checking/adjustment then I go to zero collective and re-zero pitch gauge.

Yeah thanks, I wasn't really sure how to think about the pitch gauge and the table. I've seen photos of the fold blade method. I will try all these suggestions and get it balanced better.

[thruster]

Did not install the lynx dampers. Removed the stock wood blades and mounted lynx plastic blades which are weight balanced....for now. Checked pitch again carefully. Seems perfect. Set all three dials on the bx to zero. Head shaking is gone! The issue now is fast tail wag. Reading bx manual on tail parameters and gain setting.

I will figure out the dynamic balancing soon.......but also trying to get a simple hover going to keep my excitement level up so I don't lose interest. Feel good about todays progress!

[thruster]

Nice....finally got it. In my last post I had fast tail-wag when I tried to lift-off, but had gotten rid of the head shaking completely.

So tonight after reading how to adjust tail gain in the transmitter while watching the amber led on the bx move through the letters, I set it on F per the manual which reduced the gain from 77% down to 65% in the DX6i. Then hovered it for a short time just long enough to see it's under control, tail steers correctly, no head shaking, no vibrations in main or tail rotor, and no tail wag!

Need to turn control rate down and add expo. It reacts a little quick since I haven't flown in many months. Thanks everyone for your excellent input!

[thruster]

Originally Posted by Uriah

I do all of my takeoffs and landings in idle up. On my bigger birds I always end my flights with a full autorotation. On my smaller birds it's usually a foot high baby auto.

So when you do the baby auto landing with your 300x, you must have a one way bearing installed for this......right?

[Uriah]

Yea. But a foot high baby auto can still be done without a OWB without any difficulty.

[vicscott]

I have a question about 300x setup, i have read a lot of your posts but am struggling with getting it right.I gothru Step h,i,j kand l correctly but when i exit setup and beastx restarts(after step N i always seem to end up with alot a Neg Pitch.
Any help muchly appreciated in advance. Cheers Scotty

[mattbeau]

So at G it's as close to 90, then level swashplate, make sure follower arms are perpendicular to main shaft, then adjust pitch links so that the blades are equal when folded back. Then go to menu J, 6 degrees, then K positive 12 degrees, negative 12 degrees.

[thruster]

Originally Posted by vicscott

I have a question about 300x setup, i have read a lot of your posts but am struggling with getting it right.I gothru Step h,i,j kand l correctly but when i exit setup and beastx restarts(after step N i always seem to end up with alot a Neg Pitch.
Any help muchly appreciated in advance. Cheers Scotty

What is your throttle stick position when you have negative pitch? Some negative pitch is NORMAL with the throttle stick all the way down to zero (If your pitch curve is set according to the 300x owner manual). As you move the throttle stick upward the pitch should gradually go positive and the heli will rise off the ground. Does this make sense? I will check back later today. Best of luck and stay with it.

[thruster]

Originally Posted by vicscott

I have a question about 300x setup, i have read a lot of your posts but am struggling with getting it right.I gothru Step h,i,j kand l correctly but when i exit setup and beastx restarts(after step N i always seem to end up with alot a Neg Pitch.
Any help muchly appreciated in advance. Cheers Scotty

Check out these previous posts in the links below, I had a similar thing happening and eventually figured it out.

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...8&postcount=20

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...9&postcount=22

https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...1&postcount=27

[vicscott]

Originally Posted by mattbeau

So at G it's as close to 90, then level swashplate, make sure follower arms are perpendicular to main shaft, then adjust pitch links so that the blades are equal when folded back. Then go to menu J, 6 degrees, then K positive 12 degrees, negative 12 degrees.

Ok, Should i have any color LED light on before pressing onto H?.Thank you

[jypt01]

Originally Posted by vicscott

Ok, Should i have any color LED light on before pressing onto H?.Thank you

Moving from G to H.

When you move from G to H any changes you made in G regardless of which servo you have selected or if it is in the reference position all changes made will be save.

When checking swash level or for 0 pitch you must have any one of the 3 servos selected (the status light lit).