Trex500/ Power setup/ help needed

[SumOFparts]

Or you could run a small 3s lipo into 10a bec job - that would give you what ever extra punch your after......
again - me thinks money and time best spent elsewhere....


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[FaisalHeli's]

Originally Posted by DCflyer

Avery good to hear from you man. Yes, I can say that setup works very well. I love my YGE's as well - I wish they would join the 21st century already and come out with a software! Kontronik finally, after almost 3 years of people asking, released a very basic software interface and their ESC's cost an arm and a leg . Germans.........

Where do you fly now? VAflyers, Varchar, or Fredericksburg?

Indeed I did! My apologies.
However It does make a lot of sense and I think what I would do now is have that 10A BEC that I ordered for my 450, and get 10A for the 500. But having an external RX battery is too heavy. My trex500 also lacks the space for a an extra battery

[FaisalHeli's]

Originally Posted by SumOFparts

He's absolutely right - bec pro -or

http://www.western-robotics.com/WRL-HBECS7

would be safest way to go -

However been using the little blue ones for couple years - w/zero problems - I did 'Y' mod so there's two inputs into the fbl bus.....


OR - on two of mine I run talon 90's - with 9a bec - force to be reckoned with....
again - 'Y' mod suggested....

Thank you! The western robotics seems legit but too expansive. Keep in mind I'v invested a lot in changing to DFC flybarless and now to the 500L Head.
I think the CC 20ABec is my best option..
Mind my question if its stupid, but why would I need the Castle Quick link? Wouldn't I be good with just the USB link for programming?

[FaisalHeli's]

In regards for the external battery I am really not into this idea for that it is heavy, space is tight, and more complicated.
I like to have minimal wires as possible, all my wiring is discrete. So with a BEC I wouldn't need the ESC to be on the side, it would be under the battery. The bec would be on the side of the frame with the wires going in from the frame.
Safe, discrete, and kind of simple.

If you don't agree with me please do explain. I really lack the knowledge in the power setup.

[FaisalHeli's]

I'm amazed of the features in CastleCreations, I am about to order the 20A BEC and Field Link
And I found the answer for the Quick link, its just so you don't have to unplug the ESC wire from the unit every time you need to connect it?

[SumOFparts]

Funny thing about the pro - you dont unplug the esc wire -
the fieldlink justs into its top via servo link cable.....

You dont even power it up to program it- it powers up on its own from the usb bus.....

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on my 550's I set the bec at 6.4v - gives the bus a little wiggle head room...bus voltage typical drops 1/3 to 1/2 volt......and that's at no load.....And that's what the LIFE's produce - so its tested safe....

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As far as the talon 90s - I now remember only bad about the talons - you get two choices 6 or 8 volt - and nada else....



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[Gladius]

I'll throw in my 2 cents. I've been running the little 10A BEC on my 500 for a couple years now with no problems. I'm using the standard Align servos, a Spektrum receiver, and a ZYX followed by a Spartan VX1e FBL. But my last crash broke off one of the capacitors on my ESC, and my soldering skills were not up to the task of repairing it. So I'm going to replace it with an Edge 75A ESC. I think I'll put the 20A BEC pro on, not because I think I need it with my current setup, but so that I have some overhead to upgrade to some HV servos down the road. I've seen people posting about running 450mm blades, and that's going to put a heavier load on your servos. Also, I'm only running 2700rpm (since I have an ESP, which doesn't need a higher headspeed to get tail authority.). For those guys running DFCs with 3000-3200rpm, your servos are going to work harder, and will draw more current, so a BEC Pro may be needed.

[Mateyhv]

Gladius you might consider the Hobbywing 100a v3, its much cheaper than the Edge, there is no log but it has a great reputation. I am using the smaller 50a and its a great piece of gear with an excellent governor. Has an output RPM too. About your damaged ESC I sent you a PM

[Gladius]

I saw that. I'm more partial to the Castle ESCs these days, due to the logging, CastleLink programming, and integrated rpm sensor so I can use the eGov on my VX1e units. Also, as it so happens, I'm traveling, so a HW would get shipped to my home, where it would sit for another week and a half, whereas I can pick up a Castle from the hobby shop today.

[Mateyhv]

Yes the logging is great tool to understand whats going on inside your ESC. I would recommend everybody with a serious interest in helis to have a CC esc at least once. I have the ICE 100 and a HW rpm sensor, just waiting for Spartan to release the **** Studio with the eGov update. If Angelos is not fast enough I might go with the new Eznov Neuron, still waiting first feedback but the 9 axis gyro at a great price sound promising.

[Phil79]

Im using also the hobbywing platinum 100a v3. The governor is great. Right now it doesnt have data logging, but they will have soon. You can use for example the eagle tree logger conected on the port of the esc fan. Also i dont need an external bec, the esc bec can handle 10a continous, and 25a bursts. Can be adjusted to provide 6, 7.4 or 8.4v.

[FaisalHeli's]

Originally Posted by SumOFparts

Funny thing about the pro - you dont unplug the esc wire -
the fieldlink justs into its top via servo link cable.....

You dont even power it up to program it- it powers up on its own from the usb bus.....

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on my 550's I set the bec at 6.4v - gives the bus a little wiggle head room...bus voltage typical drops 1/3 to 1/2 volt......and that's at no load.....And that's what the LIFE's produce - so its tested safe....

-

As far as the talon 90s - I now remember only bad about the talons - you get two choices 6 or 8 volt - and nada else....



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Update: CC pro BEC 20A is in
CC edge100 is in
Field link is in
quick connect is in

So I have all I need for the setup, however, I thought a lot about a LIFE battery for electronics but to be honest I don't think its necessary I am not running HV servos at 8V.

Funny thing about the pro - you dont unplug the esc wire -

Do you mean I don't need to unplug the red wire from the ESC to receiver?( If no, I was going to have an extension with red wire unplugged, would it work if abandon the extension and just remove the red wire from the quick connect? Because the esc will be connected to it with all wires, so if I have the red out from the receiver end, I would still be able to program the ESC from the "LINK" end?)

[Gladius]

First off, I really appreciate this discussion about the red wire. I've been programming my new ESC, and keep forgetting to remove that. If not for this discussion, I'm sure I would have fried something by now!

Faisal, you don't need to remove the BEC wires when programming the BEC. It recognizes when you plug the CastleLink into the port on top of it. You do need to disconnect the ESC from the receiver in order to program the ESC. As discussed, if you use an extension lead, you can remove the red wire from the extension, and then you don't have to worry about inserting-removing-inserting-removing the red wire on the ESC lead.

[SumOFparts]

you use an extension lead - for the ESC to fbl connect , remove the red wire from the extension.....

[rstekeur]

I got a CC 20a also. I did a lot of reading on using the 10a on 6s and it looks like there were equal opinions on using the 10amp or not. The price difference wasn't that much so I over compensated and went with the 20a

[FaisalHeli's]

Originally Posted by Gladius

First off, I really appreciate this discussion about the red wire. I've been programming my new ESC, and keep forgetting to remove that. If not for this discussion, I'm sure I would have fried something by now!

Faisal, you don't need to remove the BEC wires when programming the BEC. It recognizes when you plug the CastleLink into the port on top of it. You do need to disconnect the ESC from the receiver in order to program the ESC. As discussed, if you use an extension lead, you can remove the red wire from the extension, and then you don't have to worry about inserting-removing-inserting-removing the red wire on the ESC lead.

Originally Posted by SumOFparts

you use an extension lead - for the ESC to fbl connect , remove the red wire from the extension.....

I am aware of that, and I did so, however, I got a better idea but not sure it will work, my wires are always inside the frame and for that I bought QuickLink: https://www.rotorquest.com/index.php...oduct_id=13112

Please check the link for quick link picture

In other words, I am considering removing the red wire from the receiver lead going out of the quicklink and in that way I will have the esc wire with all 3, and it connects to Castle link via the other lead.

I will remove the red from the quicklink to the receiver, and the other one will be used for programming.
This means that I don't require the use of an extension, the quicklink gets power from the esc, but doesn't deliver it to the receiver(again receiver lead from quicklink will have the red out). I would have easy access to programming thanks to the quicklink, and instead of using an extension the quick link would work as one.

Does it make sense? And would it work?
I see no reason for it not to, but please if you have your doubts, share them.

[FaisalHeli's]

Originally Posted by rstekeur

I got a CC 20a also. I did a lot of reading on using the 10a on 6s and it looks like there were equal opinions on using the 10amp or not. The price difference wasn't that much so I over compensated and went with the 20a

Yea for real its almost 20$ more but you get something a lot better and more flexible. With 20A, you can probably run all HV servo's with no problem. And it can be used for future, and bigger projects.

You made the right choice.

[Mateyhv]

Originally Posted by FaisalHeli's

Yea for real its almost 20$ more but you get something a lot better and more flexible. With 20A, you can probably run all HV servo's with no problem. And it can be used for future, and bigger projects.

You made the right choice.

With CC 10A you can also run all HV servos with no problems.

[FaisalHeli's]

Originally Posted by Mateyhv

With CC 10A you can also run all HV servos with no problems.

In a situation where you spent around 400$ on servo`s, 20$ extra for a 20A is well worth it.

[Gladius]

That quick link looks like a good idea. You're going to pay $4-5 for an extension anyway, so an extra $7-8 to get the quicklink is no big deal.