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130X Blade 130X Helicopters Information and Help |
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09-16-2014, 11:47 AM | #21 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Pensacola, Fl
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Nano cps,MCPXv2,130X(x3), 180 CFX, HK 250 DFC Hybrid, 450 SE, DX6i |
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09-16-2014, 02:33 PM | #22 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
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You laugh, but one day I'll be the one laughing when all new helis are carrying MY design!!!!
Then I'll have enough money to buy sharks with freakin' lazer beams. |
09-16-2014, 04:45 PM | #24 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
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Well they have protection on quads, the rings around the rotors and such. I'm sure that could be put on helis...stop blade strikes at least.
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09-17-2014, 08:41 AM | #25 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
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Got the 130 fixed up, no control lever yet. The lynx heli case is brilliant; a bearing is removed with a screw allowing you to install the shaft, gear and sleeve without difficulty.
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09-17-2014, 10:13 AM | #26 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Sep 2011
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Quote:
A big +1 to the Lynx quad bearing tail box. |
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09-17-2014, 01:42 PM | #28 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
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That's the counter its sitting on.
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09-17-2014, 10:30 PM | #29 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
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Something went wacky with the tail servo, so I installed one from the red bull. Now it has a tail wag, and on left piros is goes and then springs back a bit. Say if I piro left to face me, it will piro right instantly a little bit. Think this means the servo is dirty? Also the servo mount, should it be right against where the boom enters the frame?
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09-17-2014, 11:17 PM | #30 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Yankton, South Dakota
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Quote:
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RF Evolution, AccuRC, Futaba 8fg, DX8 gen 2, Blade 230s V2, Blade 150s, Blade MCPX BL2, Genius CP, MCPX V2, SR UH-1 Huey, nCPX, 450 3D, Red Bull 130x, 130x. I always need just one more than I have! AMA# 972576 |
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09-18-2014, 09:21 AM | #31 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
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Quote:
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09-18-2014, 09:31 AM | #32 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2014
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I suppose it can be adjusted at the end of the rod anyways. I posted this in another thread, but I am having an issue I found out. The tail shaft goes in too far, and effectively make the tail positive pitch very small. If I push out the shaft, it then has play where it go back and forth. This seems as though it would cause an issue when piroing. If you piro left slowly, the shaft may pull out more, or perhaps the resistance will push in the shaft and just reduce the postive pitch. I read about reversing the grips, so that the tail will function as it should (ability to have more postive that negative pitch), but I just don't know. One thought that just occurred to me was to cut the sleeve, and install the part that secures the shaft on the inside of the case, effectively not being able to move as it is held in between the bearing and the sleeve, and holding the shaft securely. This method would also allow one to add more positive pitch by making the shaft "longer". I read about reversing tail grips, but I don't want to be bothered moving the servo backwards and bending the rod to clear the gears.
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09-18-2014, 10:41 AM | #33 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
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My lynx quad tail case has the same problem. The tail shaft doesn't go out the left side of the case far enough to go all the way through the set screw.
I need to take mine apart to see if the Lynx tail shaft that came with the tail case is longer than the stock one. With the Lynx quad, what you should be able to do is cut down the sleeve a little, loosen the set screw holding the left bearing in place and slide the bearing further into the case until there is enough room for the set screw on the outside still. |
09-18-2014, 11:05 AM | #34 (permalink) |
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I am using the lynx shaft. MY issue is that the d-slot is too long, resulting in the shaft going too far onto the gear. There is a good amount of the shaft protruding past the set screw, probably about 3mm. If I make the shaft flush with the set screw, then I gain a good amount of positive pitch, but the shaft then is able to move back and forth, causing a change in pitch.
Here is the lynx manual: http://www.lynxheli.com/manuals/LX07...AIL%20CASE.pdf As you can see, the shaft goes past the set screw. You would think this too be okay, but I find the positive pitch to be lacking, and the pitch slider sits awfully close to the casing, rather than in the middle, which is where I feel it should sit. |
09-18-2014, 11:18 AM | #35 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2013
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I don't think the quad tail is the issue and you mentioned changing the tail servo. Pitch is controlled by the length of the servo rod or the tail servo position on the boom. If you moved the holder or it shifted or the boom slipped your pitch will be altered.
As an aside these linear servos are fine for cyclic but are pretty unreliable on the tail. I used to think otherwise and defended them but the 130 schooled me on it. Be prepared to change them occasionally or upgrade to rotary. One way to boost their durability is to dab the larger servo gear with CA where you can see the shaft and also on the set screw on the other end. Otherwise in a crash they can slip, fail outright, smoke out. They are good for nothing jitter prone nasties really. |
09-18-2014, 11:26 AM | #36 (permalink) |
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The issue is the pitch slider is too close to the casing to achieve positive pitch. It would have proper pitch range if the shaft was out further, but the d slot goes out to far and slides in and out if tighten the set screw at the edge of the shaft. It's not a servo issue but a pitch slider or shaft issue.
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09-18-2014, 11:46 AM | #37 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2013
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I've got 3 of them and I've installed them more times than I care to admit. Here is my general approach:
(assumes the C gear is in and the pitch slider is in its fork appropriately) 1. push the shaft through the slider until it is barely visible on the inside of the first bearing pair. 2. add the D gear and push the shaft through it far enough to just reveal it on the other side of the D gear 3. add the tubular spacer, careful not to knock out the second bearing pair which should be loose because the set screw is loose. 4. push the shaft though the tube and second bearing set 5. attach the pitch arms to the tail grips, careful still about the loose second bearing pair 6. push the second bearing set *firmly* into the spacer (while also pushing on the tail grip hub in the opposte direction) and tighten the set screw. *at this point you should only have enough shaft reveal to attach the retaining collar* 7. attach the retaining colar. It should be flush to the 2nd bearing pair with set screws in their grooves. If not, something is very wrong. 8. fine tune pitch via the servo rod adjustment or slide the servo on the boom. I usually slide the servo. |
09-18-2014, 12:18 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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Referring to step 6, where you state there should there should be just enough shaft for retaining collar. On mine, there is too much for retaining collar, and it sticks past the retaining color. If I move the collar back to where it is flush with the end of the shaft, then push the collar against the bearing, the shaft moves out, and causes the blades to gain more positive pitch, which is what I want. The issue is, there is no way for the shaft to stay here, as the end of the d slot is further up the shaft, and the shaft must move further down for the gear to rest against the end of the d slot. Hope that makes sense. It seems to be the fact that the d slot on the shaft was made too long, and the shaft goes in too far before it ends and sits securely against the gear. I need a way to shorten the area the d slot extends, to the shaft cant go back as far, or slice the sleeve against the gear, install a retaining collar in the casing rather than on the outside, so that the collar becomes part of the sleeve and can lock down the shaft.
Looking at the manual I posted, pics show the shaft going past the collar...but this is not a proper design as positive pitch is not much when the slider is against the casing. This is clear when piroing. Going right and the heli piros like a maniac, left it is a piro little more than I'd want for basic flight. This would no doubt stress the servo too, as it is trying to add more pitch when the slider is already maxed out. |
09-18-2014, 12:42 PM | #39 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2013
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If you did step 5 (attach the slider pitch arms to the blade grips) and the tail servo is attached to the pitch arm your slider movement would be limited. If you are doing that then certainly something wonky going on with your tail, the bearing positions... something. Post a pic.
Fully assembled the quad box doesn't really look any different than a stock assembly really. The collar should be up against the bearings, and the bearings up against the tubular spacer. The only thing I keep thinking is that you should stop worrying about tail pitch until you have the tail fully assembled and tight because that is easily adjustable. You mentioned you crashed against a semi? Are you sure your servo is in the stock spot? The stock servo is *generally* 1/4 inch down the boom. |
09-18-2014, 01:11 PM | #40 (permalink) |
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Hmm, mine doesn't look much different. Even on that pic that tail pitch is zero and the slider is closer to the casing. Seems as though it can't achieve a lot of positive pitch, just not the best design. Some were mentioning that it really should have been a leading edge design, allowing more positive pitch than negative. I still think my shaft protrudes from the collar more than that pic though. Maybe I'll take a look at modding it. I'll see if I can get some pics tonight.
As for worrying about the pitch after the assembly, I have already been flying the heli. I was getting wags, and I think the servo was dirty, and the blades werent quite tight enough. During flight it was flying well, other the wags, but piros seems slower to the left. |
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