What's up with these large TT links?

[raptorflyer88]

Hey guys, quick question for y'all. I've done some minor crash repairs on my G4.1 and noticed how tough (almost impossible) the links running from the swash to the control arms are to remove. I've tried two pairs of ball link pliers and ended up having to pull them off with regular pliers and bent the rod on one. Luckily I ordered extra pre made links. Any tricks for removing these? I like that they are tight, but good night mercy they are tight! Thanks!

Justin

[Don S]

They get even tighter in cold weather, and will drain your rx battery faster. I've gotten mine off with either a small flat head screw driver (elevator) or some needle nose plier trickery.

One day I'll make a custom tool from a swash ball to ream them out a bit. Maybe TT should make a tool, since they created the problem.

[raptorflyer88]

Originally Posted by Don S

They get even tighter in cold weather, and will drain your rx battery faster. I've gotten mine off with either a small flat head screw driver (elevator) or some needle nose plier trickery.

One day I'll make a custom tool from a swash ball to ream them out a bit. Maybe TT should make a tool, since they created the problem.

I agree totally Don. If they are gonna use those links on their helis I wish there was a tool. They would sell a ton of them I'd imagine.

Justin

[Dyehard]

My first X50 was completed around the first of January. Even though it was in the twenties I had to at least hover it to get the engine break in started . I knew that all the links were tight but figured they would wear in, so I fueled it up in my basement shop, carried it out to my backyard and fired it up. Didn't take long to figure out the links were way too tight, the servos woundn't center at all. Give a little right and it would keep going right, give a little left and it would keep going left. I have a long ball with a 3mm stud off an xcell that I crimped with a pair of dykes years ago that just happened to fit the TT links. I chucked into a cordless drill and used it to size all the TT links until they were kissy smooth. Probably didn't take more than ten minutes to do all of them. Carried the heli back outside and it just sat there in a normal hover. Amazing how tight those links can be in cold weather is not properly sized, plus they pop off easier.

[raptorflyer88]

Hmm, pretty clever buddy. Thanks for the info.

[Dyehard]

I used that same modified ball on my second X50 as I built it and my buddy's Raptor 50 Titan SE because he was conplaining of it not sitting in a hover. That ball also works on the Tarot and HK links on my 450 Pro. A lot of the ball links on these helis, big and small, are pretty close in size.

[Rob43]

I sized all the links on my X50. None were free moving. I think it's fine to make them tight, and size them to operate freely.

What I didn't get was the turnbuckle main grip links. Very nice idea, but in practice, they were too tight to use the wrench when installed. Now that I have them adjusted for proper setup, I acquired a metric tap set...

[PlaneHazza]

I had to ream them on my G4 also. After 5 flights, all balls had backed out on the servo arms and bell cranks, despite being degreased and (blue) threadlocked during the build. I've since used red threadlock and have replaced the bell cranks links with QuickUK links and threaded rods. Shame I can't do anything about the swash links :/

I don't have any spare larger ball links otherwise I would just rough it up and use that as a reamer.

[Phil777]

They won't back out with red locktite and they do wear in after 20 flights.



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[borntofly]

I never ream them or resize in any way. They are a bit tight at first but they come good after some flights.
Even early on I don't notice anything abnormal during flight.
With the torque of servos these days, I don't think they have any problems handling tight links for a while. Fighting against the forces of blade pitch is far more of a challenge for servos IMO.
The push/pull design helps as well.

Just slap them on and fly. She'll be right!


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[aseejr]

On old trick to size them so they don't bind (as much):

With the link on the ball. Use a pair or smooth long nose pliers and squeeze the link (again - link mounted on the ball).....be careful.....because if you squeeze too hard it will make the link too loose.

[Hawk208]

Here is the trick I use. Works perfectly and no tool is needed.
rotate the ball link perpendicularly and it will pop the link right off.
But you have to put your nail between the link and the edge of the linkage ball mount, or it will leave a stress mark on your ball link.

[raptorflyer88]

Originally Posted by Hawk208

Here is the trick I use. Works perfectly and no tool is needed.
rotate the ball link perpendicularly and it will pop the link right off.
But you have to put your nail between the link and the edge of the linkage ball mount, or it will leave a stress mark on your ball link.

Thanks for the advice man. I'll have to try that next time!