YGE and VBar Gov Setup Instructions

[prototype3a]

I understand it isn't a Jive. I have the v-bar gov on my other Logo with a HW 70hv. I was just saying that the progcard could be a lot better. It doesn't seem to give positive feed back on what you have or have not programmed.

Anyway, I switched it to 2% start, Heli Middle + Plane Middle for now. That seems to start nicely. I'll have to wait till this weekend to see how it performs and flys.

[Mystic3D]

I usually scroll back though the menu's to verify that the settings took.
Just be sure to take your program card to the field so when the gov sux you can fix it.

[prototype3a]

Talked to a few other people and it seems that one source of many of my problems is that the "Stop / Full Throttle" interface and "Collective controls Throttle" are broken on the Mini-V.

I did some testing and found that no matter where the sliders are or whether or not I have collective control enabled. My throttle channel still controls the ESC.

[Mystic3D]

Originally Posted by prototype3a

Talked to a few other people and it seems that one source of many of my problems is that the "Stop / Full Throttle" interface and "Collective controls Throttle" are broken on the Mini-V.

I did some testing and found that no matter where the sliders are or whether or not I have collective control enabled. My throttle channel still controls the ESC.

That's a tough one as Motor Stop is critical to getting a smooth spool up.

The only thing I can think of is:

1. Program the ESC Endpoints with Gov Disabled, making sure throttle channel in VBar is -100/100 in VBar. Then use YGE Program Card to set endpoints low and high.

2. Enable Gov.
3. Then you should on JR start with Gov Motor Stop around -94(Similar motor to mine)
4. Then adjust Gov Motor Stop on bench(No Blades). Put at mid stick with throttle hold on. When you take off throttle hold there should be NO Delay before motor starts.
You want to be on the edge of this, so go to where there is delay then go up(Positive)
untill there is no delay.

Motor Full: Not sure how to solve this one. The downside to leaving at 100 is the Gov will not work properly. it will keep giving throttle when there is no more power.

[prototype3a]

As best I can tell, it doesn't matter where the stop/start sliders are at. It appears that the whole interface may be broken on the Mini-V. I have to wonder how this managed to slip by the software testers.

[Inverse]

I'm experiencing the same behaviors with the sliders, I just guessed at 94 and it works.
My spool up is fine and the gov seems to be working well, cheers for the write up.
Now it's just time to start dialing everything in.

[prototype3a]

I posted a thread in the V-bar forum. Hopefully, we can get some help from Mr. Mel or another user with close ties to Mikado.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=357698

[Mystic3D]

Originally Posted by prototype3a

I posted a thread in the V-bar forum. Hopefully, we can get some help from Mr. Mel or another user with close ties to Mikado.

https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=357698

It's been out too long, if it was broken it would have surfaced already.

[Clarence Creer]

Talked to a few other people and it seems that one source of many of my problems is that the "Stop / Full Throttle" interface and "Collective controls Throttle" are broken on the Mini-V.

I did some testing and found that no matter where the sliders are or whether or not I have collective control enabled. My throttle channel still controls the ESC.

I found the exact same thing to happen.

[Mystic3D]

Originally Posted by Fly X Cell

I found the exact same thing to happen.

Reset Gov was the solution in the other thread


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[prototype3a]

Yup. The "Reset" button fixed my gov calibration problems. I set it to 94/94.

I also found that any time you're using the progcard the throttle lead on the esc must not be plugged into anything or it will behave very strangely. I don't know why and I don't remember seeing this in the manual but that seems to be the way it is.

Anywho. Heli Middle + Plane Fast and 2% start power seems to be working very well on my Logo. I think I settled on a gov gain of 30. As a whole, it is flying very nicely, esc is running cool and the drive train sounds great. I did bump up the collective dynamic to make it a smidge more poppy. It also appears that I will be able to get longer flights with this setup. I should be able to bump my timer up from 7:30 to 8:00 or 8:15. I suspect this is a result of flying at 2100rpm vs 2150 but getting the same pop since the gov is working that little bit better.

[taosgraveyard]

In the excellent setup instructions in the beginning of t his thread It talks about the governor setup ESC Calibration:


XVIII. Calibrate vbar governor
1. Turn on collective control
2. Raise motor on slider and note value
3. now put that value -12 in motor off

The instructions say to subtract 5. Why was 12 chosen as the number to subtract? Is this number (-12) somehow better for the YGE 120HV?

Also, it looks like the part about calibrating the max throttle is missing from these instructions. Are we supposed to skip this step for the YGE 120 HV? ( I completed this step on mine and all was ok in 6 test flights)

I just setup mine on a logo 600SE and I am very happy with the way it works. ESC Temp 97 ( ambient temp 65) inside ESC shrink wrap covering at the heat sink.

[Mystic3D]

Originally Posted by taosgraveyard

In the excellent setup instructions in the beginning of t his thread It talks about the governor setup ESC Calibration:


XVIII. Calibrate vbar governor
1. Turn on collective control
2. Raise motor on slider and note value
3. now put that value -12 in motor off

The instructions say to subtract 5. Why was 12 chosen as the number to subtract? Is this number (-12) somehow better for the YGE 120HV?

Also, it looks like the part about calibrating the max throttle is missing from these instructions. Are we supposed to skip this step for the YGE 120 HV? ( I completed this step on mine and all was ok in 6 test flights)

I just setup mine on a logo 600SE and I am very happy with the way it works. ESC Temp 97 ( ambient temp 65) inside ESC shrink wrap covering at the heat sink.

The important part is when you get to the part where you go in and out of throttle hold on the bench where there is no delay. The number i choose is arbitrary but was closest to this point. However I would think each motor is going to be different,

So no magic here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[scoti333]

Originally Posted by prototype3a

The new (ver "23&quot YGE hv (90hv, 120hv, 160hv and possibly the 60hv) escs can communicate rpm data to the v-bar through the programming lead when that adapter is used.

How can you tell what ver it is? I have a 90HV that I got maybe three months ago..

[prototype3a]

My 90hvs (v-bar friendly) didn't have any distinguishing marks on them... My guess is to do the special v-bar progcard dance and see if it makes the funny confirm beeps.

[joe1l]

Originally Posted by prototype3a

Yup. The "Reset" button fixed my gov calibration problems. I set it to 94/94.

I also found that any time you're using the progcard the throttle lead on the esc must not be plugged into anything or it will behave very strangely. I don't know why and I don't remember seeing this in the manual but that seems to be the way it is.

Anywho. Heli Middle + Plane Fast and 2% start power seems to be working very well on my Logo. I think I settled on a gov gain of 30. As a whole, it is flying very nicely, esc is running cool and the drive train sounds great. I did bump up the collective dynamic to make it a smidge more poppy. It also appears that I will be able to get longer flights with this setup. I should be able to bump my timer up from 7:30 to 8:00 or 8:15. I suspect this is a result of flying at 2100rpm vs 2150 but getting the same pop since the gov is working that little bit better.

As a safety feature if you are using the Prog card you can not have the long throttle cable plugged into an RX that has power. Even though the card powers you can not program the ESC unless the Throttle cable is unplugged or plugged into something that does not have power. This just prevents the possibility of an accidental spoolup, they take alot measures to prevent this. I have found YGE to be one of the safer ESC's out there when it comes to this. I carry a spare RX with my Prog card and 4.8v nimh to make programming easier. As long as the throttle cable is not plugged in to powered source you can program the YGE off the programming port w/o moving any wires around on your airframe except the programming wire.

[scoti333]

I may be missing something simple and this may be a stupid question, but what are you guys talking about when your saying 'plane fastX3'? Isn't there only one selection on the ProgCard for 'plane fast'?

[prototype3a]

X3 means times three. You select it 3 times in a row. It's part of the secret handshake to tell the ESC we want the v-bar gov mode.

[Mystic3D]

Originally Posted by scoti333

I may be missing something simple and this may be a stupid question, but what are you guys talking about when your saying 'plane fastX3'? Isn't there only one selection on the ProgCard for 'plane fast'?

If you have a new version with Vbar support. Then when you program it like in instructions above. You press plane fast 3 times


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[scoti333]

Originally Posted by prototype3a

X3 means times three. You select it 3 times in a row. It's part of the secret handshake to tell the ESC we want the v-bar gov mode.

Are you serious? Seems impractical.. So, 'plane fast+plane fast' is just plane fast selected twice in a row?