DFC head upgrade to 500ESP

[ddj74]

Originally Posted by krauley

sorry about the bad picture there, but thanks for the reply. the link from the grip does indeed connection to an A ball on the swash.

as for my esp to DFC conversion, my swash only has the B balls on it, do i need change these out for the shorter A ball or will i be ok with the current setup?

appreciate it

The grips that attach to the swash from the dfc head need to attach to shorter size balls as discussed.

[krauley]

Originally Posted by ddj74

The grips that attach to the swash from the dfc head need to attach to shorter size balls as discussed.

got it thank you sir

[Way2evl]

Originally Posted by ddj74

I bought Trueblood dampeners from the get go. Not sure if that's a good thing or not but it definitely has no play/wobble. Not that i could put them to the test anyways since i'm not attempting 3d yet...lol.

Also on a different subject i read that a lot had problems with getting "Blue" light on step "J" the 6 degree pitch setup part on the AR7200BX. I did too even with the shorter swash balls (was close but blue didn't light up till about 6.3) so i decided to go through my setup again. By setting my servo links measuring from center hole to center hole i had around 45mm in length (manual for the esp called for around 50mm) and using the 13.5mm holes on the servo arms. The DFC head links were pretty much bottomed out on both adjustable parts with both "A's" facing out. Then adjusted the servo's which all of them are pretty much centered till i achieved around zero pitch. Anything that was off i did not make adjustments on the links but through the controller on step "G" by moving the servo arms instead (minor tweaks like using a little trim). Finally after getting Zero pitch pretty much all around i redid the "J" setup and blue showed up after 5.5 so easily made 6 degree pitch with blue. Right on the money. Hope this might help a few but i'm sure each persons setup is different.

Did you make sure you swash was level when doing your adjustment in bold. Also, I tried moving to the 13.5mm holes on the servo horn and it bound agains the servo in step "L". You didn't have any of these problems?

[ddj74]

Originally Posted by Way2evl

Did you make sure you swash was level when doing your adjustment in bold. Also, I tried moving to the 13.5mm holes on the servo horn and it bound agains the servo in step "L". You didn't have any of these problems?

Yes perfectly level swash. My adjustments are made to correct around .2 degrees of pitch with a rc logger digital pitch gauge (this thing is a godsend). Does it matter to be that slightly off...probably not but i'm anal like that...lol. If i'm off the adjustments are usually made on the alieron or pitch servo. Easier for me then giving the servo rod a slight twist. This way its hands free on heli and i can see the difference in real time versus wrestling the heli. On step "L" need to give left or right stick on the throttle till it doesn't bind. Each color represents different levels of movement. I couldn't get blue on that and it didn't stop binding fully till it was pink i think.

[Way2evl]

I want to say it would be more important to have a blue light at "L" than it would be to have a blue light at "J". The manual specifically states that if you don't have a blue light at "L" to mechanically adjust the helicopter till you do. Then you ould hav to start over from "G" again.

[ddj74]

Originally Posted by Way2evl

I want to say it would be more important to have a blue light at "L" than it would be to have a blue light at "J". The manual specifically states that if you don't have a blue light at "L" to mechanically adjust the helicopter till you do. Then you ould hav to start over from "G" again.

Says if the led is at purple or off to readjust.

So you made me go back and adjust...increased my 11+/- pitch to 12+/- and now have blue with no binding...lol. Quick and easy. Went through and redid those 3 steps...all blue and good to go.

[nmdesertracer]

Mistake number one never order stuff from overseas! Still waiting on my DFC head I got of fleabay. guess I gotta fly with the regular fbl head till it gets here.

[Way2evl]

Originally Posted by nmdesertracer

Mistake number one never order stuff from overseas! Still waiting on my DFC head I got of fleabay. guess I gotta fly with the regular fbl head till it gets here.

Yea that was a bad idea. There are sellers on there selling it that are in the U.S. I would say that is more your fault that fleabay.

[nmdesertracer]

Yeah I know rub it in!

[Deet]

Originally Posted by nmdesertracer

Yeah I know rub it in!

And you saved how much money? Was that amount worth this much pain?

[billmjam]

Originally Posted by Russell Skinner

What blades are people flying with the DFC head?

Curtis Youngblood 430 Flybarless! Awesome!

[nmdesertracer]

Originally Posted by Deet

And you saved how much money? Was that amount worth this much pain?

This is how I feel ----> But I did get a email today hopefully be in by friday.

[PauloG]

In regards to the dampners... I don't remember the diff on my 500, BUT, I just built the 450 DFC head and the damps are a lot harder. I am talking about PVC like feeling vs. rubber like feeling.n


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[ddj74]

Originally Posted by Gladiator

In regards to the dampners... I don't remember the diff on my 500, BUT, I just built the 450 DFC head and the damps are a lot harder. I am talking about PVC like feeling vs. rubber like feeling.n


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Soft for sport flying and hard for 3du is recommended. Can never go wrong with the harder dampeners for either type of flying.

[snjbird]

On my 450 the stock DFC dampers were un-flyable with my setup. I run a lower headspeed, and it was wobbling just doing a stationary piro... Don't know about the 500, but as soon as cash flow allows for it, I plan to upgrade my 500

With the 3G setup I have been running for a year on my 500, the gray 70* dampers work the best at my headspeed of 2600? I was a fan of the KBDD on my 500 with a FB, but they were too stiff for my setup with the VBar and the 3G head...

[ddj74]

Originally Posted by Deet

first step, move the balls in on all the servo arms, about 15 maybe 13mm will give you the right gain for the Ar7200Bx

Go through the steps in the manual, its all very simple

One tip, create a new model, 90 degree single servo swash, 100% endpoints, 0 sub trim, 0 trim. All the settings for these are done by the Bx. The only thing you end up setting in the radio are throttle and pitch curves

Kinda late in the game but i had followed this but on the Bx controller it should be set to 120 degree right not 90? I did set my remote to 90 and the Bx to 90 so i'm realizing it might be wrong...lol. It's flown fine though.

[Vinger]

Originally Posted by ddj74

Kinda late in the game but i had followed this but on the Bx controller it should be set to 120 degree right not 90? I did set my remote to 90 and the Bx to 90 so i'm realizing it might be wrong...lol. It's flown fine though.

Radio swash mix should be set to 90 deg 1 servo, BUT the BeastX should be set to whatever your swash physically is, ie 120 deg 3 servo on the TREx 500. Strange that you got through setup and that it is flying with a 90 deg setting in the BeastX.

[ddj74]

Yeah...went thru all the setup menus again after changing it to 120 degree and all is well. It flew fine so i couldn't tell you why it didnt end in disaster. Haven't flown it yet since the change but i'm a flybarless newb and still not sure how it's suppose to feel in flight. It was touchy though.

[Deet]

As Vinger said, 90 degree single servo in the radio, the 120degree CCPM in the beasts

RTFM

[Way2evl]

Originally Posted by Deet

As Vinger said, 90 degree single servo in the radio, the 120degree CCPM in the beasts

RTFM

RTFM = Read The F*ing Manual ????