Nano solid tail boom mod

[tattoo123]

Wanted to verify that the rod used is 2mm in thickness. Battery in my calipers died.

[Neunerball]

Yep, it's 2 mm. I did measure it with my calipers (battery still working).

[tattoo123]

Thanks for the help.

[GoatRider]

Yep, 2mm, same as the main shaft.

[tattoo123]

Anyone made a main shaft out of the same solid rod?

[GoatRider]

Originally Posted by tattoo123

Anyone made a main shaft out of the same solid rod?

I've made 2 or 3 so far. Works great. I keep one broken one handy to measure off of, cut to length and grind the flats with a Dremel cutoff wheel. I wet the ends with thin CA and wipe off the excess to control end splinters. I recycle the collar from the broken one, squeezing it with a pliers breaks the glue so it slides right off, and I CA it on the one I made.

[koreanbro]

I made one with eyeballing the length of tail rod, and it works perfectly, it might be 1 or 2 cm longer than original.

[Andy-B]

Do you guys think this 080 size is a tad too big?

http://hobbyalley.com/store/product/...-.080-%282%29/

I know its 2mm i need, which is the 079 size but the site doesn't have 079 size. Do you think I could get away with the 080 easily enough?

[Steve Javorsky]

.80mm is what I used for my tail, and it the correct size for that.

[Andy-B]

Do you mean .080" inch?
Thanks.

Depending on shipping price I might get the 2mm from rcfoam as the cf is way cheaper from them and I could order a bunch of it. By its way easier and faster for me to get things within canada.

[Steve Javorsky]

yes... sorry... .080in... just looked at my receipt.

[Andy-B]

Oh nice. Thanks again.
Did you have to file/cut it much if at all, to fit in the frame and motor mount ?.

[Steve Javorsky]

I used a dremel with cut-off wheel to cut it, fit into the frame no problem. I do have an xtreme 7mm tail motor with mount... fit that no problem, but I am sure it will fit the stock one as well.

[Dustin Mustangs]

Just a FYI, not all carbon rod is equal. This is especially important for main shafts. The 2mm stuff at my LHS physically works but is really weak compared to a stock mainshaft. Do a search to verify, but I think I have seen others recommending http://www.rcfoam.com/ for quality carbon rod.

Another hot boom tip, you don't need to make your own lead or do any soldering to switch to a solid boom if you have a donor tail assembly to source a motor housing from. Carefully split the stock boom and cut the housing off the motor you want to use. Then thread the stock lead into the donor housing and twist the excess length around the boom. Makes this mod a ton easier, lighter, and more reliable in my experience.

[JonJet]

If you suspect that your tail motor may be weak, or for any other reason you want to replace the whole works, you can swap BLH3602 - boom, motor mount, tail motor and tail rotor...it's all in the package and fits the Nano perfectly...

No filing no sanding no measuring...plug and play with added tail authority

[Andy-B]

Originally Posted by Dustin Mustangs

I have seen others recommending http://www.rcfoam.com/ for quality carbon rod.

Another hot boom tip, you don't need to make your own lead or do any soldering to switch to a solid boom if you have a donor tail assembly to source a motor housing from. Carefully split the stock boom and cut the housing off the motor you want to use. Then thread the stock lead into the donor housing and twist the excess length around the boom. Makes this mod a ton easier, lighter, and more reliable in my experience.

Yeah I checked out rcfoam. They definitely have a good price too. Just it will take a bit longer to get up to me here in Canada. I might just try the cf from the canadian site I like above. Its not that expensive really.

Not sure I follow the other tip ... I was juat going to take the motor and wire off the boom thats cracked and wrap it around the new solid piece of cf and put son pieces of he's shrink around it as well.
Sounds (reads) like you're suggesting to take the motor out of the little plastic case its in?

Originally Posted by JonJet

If you suspect that your tail motor may be weak, or for any other reason you want to replace the whole works, you can swap BLH3602 - boom, motor mount, tail motor and tail rotor...it's all in the package and fits the Nano perfectly...

No filing no sanding no measuring...plug and play with added tail authority

I have one of those on the way from hh with a bunch of parts I ordered a while back. Its really for my msrx which I dont crash a ton anymore.
But that is still a hollow cf rod as well, correct?
Or do you mean for when the motors burn out that those are good to swap onto a solo cf boom ?

Thanks for all your help guys.

[JonJet]

Originally Posted by Andy-B

I have one of those on the way from hh with a bunch of parts I ordered a while back. Its really for my msrx which I dont crash a ton anymore.
But that is still a hollow cf rod as well, correct?
Or do you mean for when the motors burn out that those are good to swap onto a solo cf boom ?

Thanks for all your help guys.

BLH3602 will be a hollow boom...the longer version (BLH3602L) is solid, but a shade long for the Nano CPX...although I suppose you could cut it down an re-make the notch

[CrashyCrashy]

I run hollow booms on the Nano to keep the weight down. If you still crash a lot and want to save money go with a solid boom.

CrashyCrashy

[Andy-B]

Yup, I crash the nano LOTS ... mostly getting ahead of myself trying to flip it inverted inside haha. Its super tough though. Probably 100 crashes and finally the boom broke on me.

Side topic:
Is this the ca glue everyone is always talking about.

http://www.rcfoam.com/glue-for-foam-...-hobby-stores/

Which one would you guys use -or is it all basically the same stuff- I was thinking one of the thick ones would be good m1100g ?

[Dustin Mustangs]

Originally Posted by Andy-B

Not sure I follow the other tip ... I was juat going to take the motor and wire off the boom thats cracked and wrap it around the new solid piece of cf and put son pieces of he's shrink around it as well.
Sounds (reads) like you're suggesting to take the motor out of the little plastic case it's in?

The issue is the stock wires come out of that case where the boom fits in. This is needed to run them internally in the boom which will obviously not work with a solid boom. Most seem to cut the wires to get them out of there and solder on ones with proper insulation in a thicker gauge. I have found it much easier to cut and replace the housing as apposed to the wires. Like I said, easier, lighter, and more reliable. Just be careful with that green and red enamel coating. There is a possibility for a short if it gets damaged in neighboring spots on both wires.