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| MSH Protos MSH Protos Helicopter Support Forum |
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12-11-2012, 09:12 PM
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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Aug 2010
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Canopy Air Inlet
I KNOW this is very obvious and simple, but up till now never tried it because I didn't want to do anything to my Protos canopy. I added a small air inlet right under the nose of the canopy, about 1/2 in. wide X 3/4 in. long oval, with a dremel tool. I got to tell you, I was surprised how much cooler the Batt. , ESC, AND motor felt. It's been mentioned here many times before, but I guess I never paid that much attention to the advice or maybe didn't believe it. In any event, I just wanted to post, to let others know that tiny air inlet really works. I will now pay more attention to advice given in this forum.
Roger |
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12-12-2012, 12:04 AM
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered Users
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Yes indeed
__________________
CopterX 450 Black Angel FBL "Night Rig" | ZYX v4.0 PRÔTOS 500 FBL "Sky Whip" | Robird G31 Audacity P6 FBL "Phoenix" | MSH Brain | 12s Goblin Speed | iKon |
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12-12-2012, 07:15 AM
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2012
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I need to do this, the other weekend the stock Protos was giving temp warnings after each pack and cut out once too.
__________________
[B]TT E820 - Kosmik 200, Scorp 5035 TT G4.1(x2) - OS 91 3D Speed, Hatori MSH Brains + JETI DS-16 |
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12-12-2012, 09:48 AM
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Dec 2010
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Can you post a pic of canopy. I may do this too although never really had a temp problem but why not keep things cooler.
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12-12-2012, 10:52 AM
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
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Sorry, right now all I have to to be on HF is my iPhone and I know of no way to post a pic from it on HF. I'm sure others have done this inlet and can post their pics from a regular computer. By the way, the main reason I did the inlet is because I have the ESC below the Batt. and it is about as far toward as you can get inside the canopy and saw no way their could be any air circulation at all. I figured that could not be good.
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12-12-2012, 03:28 PM
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2012
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Quote:
I actually prefer my phone over the pc now for forums
__________________
[B]TT E820 - Kosmik 200, Scorp 5035 TT G4.1(x2) - OS 91 3D Speed, Hatori MSH Brains + JETI DS-16 |
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12-12-2012, 04:44 PM
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
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TapTalk. Cool. Thanks
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12-14-2012, 01:58 PM
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered Users
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How do you protect the paint while cutting?
__________________
Goblin 500 Sport HW 100v3 Brain2 KST Rail 516 Prôtos stretch AR7200BX Savöx 1250/1290MG Switch 473 180CFX DX18 RCHN #0650 AMA# 448427 |
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12-14-2012, 02:26 PM
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2010
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I didn't ' cut ' but instead used the CONE shape grinding tool that came with the Dremel. It goes thru the thin fiberglass like butter. Very easy with that tool. Also, I should have mentioned, the Nerf ball on a stick pic's is what I use so my Protos canopy won't get blown off the table at the field or pick up table rash. Just mentioned if someone did not know.
Roger Last edited by ROGER G; 12-14-2012 at 02:41 PM.. Reason: Oh Darn, should have posted a pick of that cone shape tool. Forgot I have TapaTalk now. |
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12-14-2012, 03:31 PM
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Feb 2008
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Don't forget to seal the edges with CA after cutting the vent. It prevents the paint from chipping off.
__________________
MSH Prôtos CF FBL Stretch E-flite HABU 32, Parkzone HABU 2 Ikarus F3A Multiplex Parkmaster 3D |
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