Blade 300X setup tips and tweaks, throttle curves, battery fittings, 250 comparison

[Flyby2.4]

I just wanted to add I'm not sure if that is a problem or not with the servo . It just hasn't been a problem with mine yet. I would really hate for someone to go fly there bird and crash it right of the get go because I said it was working on mine. Just to be safe you might want to call horizon hobby and ask them. Maybe they can give you some insight into this and maybe it is a defect or something. Just a suggestion . I hope you have a good experience with this heli because its it's a pretty cool heli all in all in my opinion.
Happy new year and happy flying

[conceptmachine]

I have a question, something I didn't see anyone here having problems with. I've heard that bottom motor shaft spins in the lower race of the bearing, and was wondering about the mod with using threadlock in the bearing? How does this work exactly? Can someone please post a picture or something or just discribe the process of what they do? Do you need to disassemble the motor to do it, and which is the lower bearing, the one closest to the pinion or the one at the top of the motor when its mounted in the heli? I've gotten a 450x as well and intend to do the mod with that motor as well. Also, has anyone used thin to do the mod?
Greatly appreciated.

[Flyby2.4]

I have 450 x and 300x and yes I had to do both my motors. After 3 or 4 flights motor pinion in both were getting chewed up. It's the bearing closest to pinion gear. The shaft just spins inside the bearing instead of spinning the bearing. Some say they have had luck and had no problems but not me. Took motor out of 300 x after 3 flights and shaft was already getting score marks from this. You can tell by pulling up and down on motor if it sounds rough or squeaks like a dry bearing its already happening. It's just the fit wear the shaft goes through the bearing is little sloppy. Cheap manufacturing tolerances.
To fix you need to take motor out off motor mount and remove pinion . The remove c clip on shaft and pull motor apart. Watch for loosing c clip it can go flying when you pop it off. Where the motor shaft goes through bearing closest to c clip is we're you need to locktite it.
You just want it so the shaft locktites to inner bearing race to keep shaft from spinning inside bearing race. Make sure check pinion to main gear clearance when you put motor back in heli. Let sit all night to make sure locktite sets up.
Hope this helps

[conceptmachine]

sounds great will get it done! Thanks a lot!

edit: Took both the motors off and they both looked the same, after only a couple spool ups and short hoovers the shafts were marked up from spinning inside. Went ahead and took them off and put some locktight on shafts and put back together. One problem I see is that the 450x motors little brass washer that goes onto it, there is a good .01 gap between it and the bearing. In this case do you loosen set screw on the other end of the shaft and then tap it so that its flush, semi tight to the bearing? The 300x it was fine when put back together...seem snug against bearing, but 450 is way loose. I guess I didn't check if the bearing was seated fully or not, but if it isn't, thats terrible tolerances IMO. I wouldn't be in business if I made stuff that bad...
Oh well... Hope this fixes it and I can use it a few times
Thanks for the tips

Jimmy

[iabosi]

Originally Posted by ridge-runner

So here's my question...
One of the cyclic servos is really stiff to rotate with my fingers (with power off of course). All the other three servos can be moved quite easily with only a few inch-ounces of finger torque. The one servo can be turned but it takes a LOT of torque (enough that I dare not do it for fear of stripping a gear). But when I power everything up, all the servos seem work correctly and there appears to be no binding. Is this a bad servo or are some just stiffer than others? I haven't spooled it up yet and if I need to replace the servo, (hopefully covered by warrantee) I'd like to do this before flying it for the first time. That way the hobby dealer will know that it wasn't me crashing that caused the problem. (He's a really nice guy so I'm not really worried - he'll take care of me either way.)

I'm looking to become a proficient sport pilot - I have no aspirations of doing 3D. But I do look forward to the day when I can do my first loop!

Thanks again for all the friendly expert knowledge here at HF!

ridge-runner, I'm noticing the same thing on my 300x after a nasty spill. With power the servos appear to be operating normally, but without power they are quite easy to move.

I'm positive this was not the case before the crash.

After some repair I've taken her out once more and just did some test hovering, she appears to be fine, but the servo action without power is concerning.

Did you ever get an answer regarding the difference in servo tension with/without power?

[Psuedo_Heli_Commander]

Just a quick personal experience observation regarding some servos being tight ( power off) while others are free.. I've had one tight collective servo on each of my Blade 300,4503d(s) and 450X(s). Just seems normal. None have failed without serious abuse..I.e. Lost with power on fried one . Hundreds of flights on the rest.
As long as they move under power and the bird flies well, no worries. Even the tight ones that I stripped were still tight after replacing gear sets.

[Flyby2.4]

Figured out what makes servos tight or hard to move. It's the smallest gear in the the servo. The smallest gear fits on a plastic pin not metal pin like the other gears. The snug fit from that gear causes servo to be very difficult to turn by hand but doesn't appear to be anything to worry about other than hard to turn by hand. That gear never usually gets stripped anyway so what I did was use other small gear from other gear sets until found one that spins on plastic shaft freely and wala easy spinning servo. So if you have hard to spin servo it will get easier as some goes by by using it or take apart and change smallest gear in servo.

[tony#1]

My 300X did not have a manual for the BeastX
One posting on the internet suggested that it would be better to use the BeastX manual not the Spectrum AR7200X manual.

I have managed to find a download for a V3 manual for the BeastX.
Is this an appropriate manual? What version of the BeastX will the AR7200X be using?

Any suggestions would be welcome before I use up half a forest of paper and a lake full of ink in printing off manuals.
Tony

[PhenixFord]

Originally Posted by tony#1

My 300X did not have a manual for the BeastX
One posting on the internet suggested that it would be better to use the BeastX manual not the Spectrum AR7200X manual.

I have managed to find a download for a V3 manual for the BeastX.
Is this an appropriate manual? What version of the BeastX will the AR7200X be using?

Any suggestions would be welcome before I use up half a forest of paper and a lake full of ink in printing off manuals.
Tony

Try This \/ \/ \/ \/ ( give the page enought time to completely load ). This is the make/model that came with my 300X. Should answer all questions.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...SPMAR7200BX#t6

[nartac]

Originally Posted by tony#1

My 300X did not have a manual for the BeastX

One posting on the internet suggested that it would be better to use the BeastX manual not the Spectrum AR7200X manual.



I have managed to find a download for a V3 manual for the BeastX.

Is this an appropriate manual? What version of the BeastX will the AR7200X be using?



Any suggestions would be welcome before I use up half a forest of paper and a lake full of ink in printing off manuals.

Tony

Setup bx v3 is the same as ar7200bx so the manual for bx v3 is fine.

[brushless55]

Being these are disco and now cheaper I am considering getting one!