Some 550sx questions.

[devilfish]

Do all the new kits ship with the upgraded tail pulley system?
And does it also now ships with the new swash?

http://shop.mikado-heli.de/Swashplat...&c=7551&p=7551

Further.

Im planing to use 6s 5000lipo with the recomended Scorpion HKIII 4025-1100 motor.

I have a spare JIVE 80HV , can I use this ESC, or is the AMP going to be to high for this ESC? And a jive 100lv would be better suited?

Anything else thats good to know about the 550sx?

Cheers

[Chep]

AFAIK, here in the USA, all new kits come with the upgraded tail system (including the wider belt tensioner) and the revised swashplate. I got mine at the beginning of April and the build went just fine. I would go with the Jive 100LV or use the 80HV with a BEC. I'm sure more experienced Logo pilots can give you some better advice.

I'm new to Mikado, but so far, I've been quite impressed. My new 550SX flies amazingly.

[taosgraveyard]

The 80 and the 100 have the same BEC I believe...

Depending on the servos, the 80 BEC should be fine. If power hungry servos, maybe not.

For example, If Futaba. BLS you are good to go IMO.

[Jockpants]

The maximum continuous current draw of the motor is 100Amps. You could get away with the Jive 80 hv but be better served by the Jive 100 lv or similar if you intend to fly in a style that will require lots of power from the motor.

[devilfish]

Im not using the BEC.
My concern is if the JIV80HV is enough for a 6s 550sx setup..

[3D Dave]

The general consensus has always been Jive 100LV for a 6s Logo 500/550.

There are many past reports about guys over-amping the 80HV.

I've run an Eagle Tree logger and measured 45-55A just cruising around but 110A peaks when really pushing it in warm weather.

If you run 10s or 12s however, the 80HV would be fine.

[mkovalcson]

With the heatsink the 80LV should handle 160A peaks and 80A continuous.

The last Flight Log I looked at showed frequent 100A peaks but I was only running about 30A continuous, but i was running lower headspeeds.

I'm running BLS 451's and a 251 tail and I've had no problem with the BEC on my 100LV. I've also run JR 8717's off that same BEC circuit and never had an issue.

Most people recommend the Jive 100LV for this application.

[hemp]

It depends entirely on how you plan to fly.

Will you be running lower head speeds or maxing it out? Do you want to fly aggressively with the collective or are you a circuit/sport flier?

If you're not driving the heli hard from start to finish, an 80A rated ESC will be more than adequate. If you want to push it then adding some headroom would be wise. Even if you overdo it though, the Jive isn't going to flame up - it'll just shut down on you.

One other factor is ambient temp. If you frequently fly in temps above 90F then the ESC will have a harder time keeping cool and is more likely to shut down when overworked.

[devilfish]

Fair enough..

I did pick up a used YEP 150lv. Should handle most of the stuff im capabel off on the 550sx

Thanks

[philipjdall]

I run the 80hv (on 6s) on my 550sx. Close on 350 flights without the slightest problem. Pop a heat sink on it and you're away. I tried a YEP too, and whilst it was good it still doesn't have a patch on the jive.

[devilfish]

Sweet. I have a Jive cooler with fan ready to go..

[mkovalcson]

Originally Posted by devilfish

Sweet. I have a Jive cooler with fan ready to go..

It is more important to have a heat sink than a fan.

For the most part the heat sink just helps store the ESC's heat and really doesn't dissipate that much in flight. The fan is not as functional as you might hope.

The stock aluminum heat sink from Kontronik works fine.

[hemp]

Originally Posted by mkovalcson

For the most part the heat sink just helps store the ESC's heat and really doesn't dissipate that much in flight.

That's not really accurate, at least not if it's a properly sized and spec'd heat sink. The fins are the key. The fins collect and store heat from the ESC, then air blows over the fins and dissipates that heat. The reason it works better than a flat surface is simply the increased surface area. More surface area, more air contact, faster heat dissipation.

The fan doesn't cool the ESC directly, it forces air through the heat sink fins when that isn't happening otherwise (like when you're hovering or if there are no vents in the canopy.) When in motion, proper ducting is much more effective than a fan.

Also in order to maximize heat transfer to the heat sink, make sure to use thermal grease.

[mkovalcson]

Originally Posted by hemp

That's not really accurate, at least not if it's a properly sized and spec'd heat sink. The fins are the key. The fins collect and store heat from the ESC, then air blows over the fins and dissipates that heat. The reason it works better than a flat surface is simply the increased surface area. More surface area, more air contact, faster heat dissipation.

The fan doesn't cool the ESC directly, it forces air through the heat sink fins when that isn't happening otherwise (like when you're hovering or if there are no vents in the canopy.) When in motion, proper ducting is much more effective than a fan.

Also in order to maximize heat transfer to the heat sink, make sure to use thermal grease.

Maybe I'm a bit warped by my experience with speed fliers, but the fan's have proven to be nearly useless as have Naca ducts with regard to cooling the ESC down.

That may be more a factor of the closed canopy wrap around designs used by helis like this. However if the downwash of the blades is reaching your heatsink like they appear to be on my 550SX, a little fan will only get in the way of the air flow.

It's safe to say that I'm on board with using heat sinks