Furion 6 Flybarless Build Pictures

[dauste]

Originally Posted by src053

wow the edges look super smooth.
did you do majority of cutting with the dremel?

Yep, all done with the Dremel. I just used one of the 32mm reinforced cut-off wheels to get the main shape, then used the flat side of that to do the more precise final grinding.

[Brian James]

So I think you can see why they need some trimming down, could have had these a lot sooner, I was just too proud to ask someone which ones to get!

Also shown on page 37 of the manual

[dauste]

Shown, but you don't tell us what they are though. (LOL, I know depends on what servos you use)!

Anyways I think I did a better job than your drawn ones!!

I had the dubious pleasure of having to dust the whole thing off before I took those pictures. If the batteries I ordered take much longer to arrive, I'm going to splash out on some a bit closer to home! Can't wait much longer to get this thing in the air.

[pcskyhi]

http://www.readyheli.com/MIK4021-Car...a_p_35281.html

No mess. no fuss.

[dauste]

Ha! There you go, I know what to order next time!

[Thrasymedes]

Originally Posted by pcskyhi

http://www.readyheli.com/MIK4021-Car...a_p_35281.html

No mess. no fuss.

Thank you for this link!!!! I ordered a set for my Stratus. Was going to start grinding away on some wheels for it tomorrow and was not looking forward to the mess, but I would much rather use something like this if it slip fits on as good as the wheels. It has the same 20mm spacing.

[Brian James]

The benefit to the wheel is that you can choose where to mount the ball as you have to drill your own hole. This eliminates the need for sub trim.

[prototype3a]

Why is everyone deathly afraid of sub-trim? In a modern radio, it is probably just another number in a calculation that the radio is going to compute regardless of the value.

[Brian James]

Originally Posted by prototype3a

Why is everyone deathly afraid of sub-trim? In a modern radio, it is probably just another number in a calculation that the radio is going to compute regardless of the value.

Not "afraid" of it at all, but using it may add steps when leveling the swashplate throughout the rest of the travel. Not a big deal at all. I use JR servos, and don't have the option of the "big futaba wheel", so I end up using sub trim myself.

[prototype3a]

I would like to see those Mikado horns in person because they look pretty sweet.

Brian, I wasn't calling you out or anything. I thought maybe I would get an intelligent answer here. It just seems like the majority of heli pilots despise sub-trim with no reasonable explanation. How does sub-trim add steps when leveling the swash?

My procedure is....
1. Level servo horns with sub-trim/repositioning.
2. Adjust linkages to level swash at an appropriate height.
3. Adjust individual channel travel limits to level the swash at max and min collective.

[Brian James]

Originally Posted by prototype3a

I would like to see those Mikado horns in person because they look pretty sweet.

Brian, I wasn't calling you out or anything. I thought maybe I would get an intelligent answer here. It just seems like the majority of heli pilots despise sub-trim with no reasonable explanation. How does sub-trim add steps when leveling the swash?

My procedure is....
1. Level servo horns with sub-trim/repositioning.
2. Adjust linkages to level swash at an appropriate height.
3. Adjust individual channel travel limits to level the swash at max and min collective.

Yeah, no problem The way you describe is about as good as it gets! I also add a couple mixes to get rid of interaction as well.

[Thrasymedes]

Just the way some of the older equipment used to operate I believe, so people passed down that knowledge and it has been an assumed best practice. With the newer equipment sub trims are just another useful tool with no real negative impact imho. My setup process is exactly the same with also some mixes to get the swash level all through the throw like Brian does. It usually doesn't take much. Also, subtrim doesn't move on a large scale on my Futaba 10C, +15 subtrim doesn't equate to +15 on the servo menu, more like +3. Subtle but useful.

The biggest thing for me though in those type servo arms is not having to friggin' grind the things every time. Nothing better than grinding on yet another wheel, trying to shape it and then cleaning up the dust. Feels too much like wood carving... I like plastic for the sake of my servos, and the fact that they press on snugly to the servo splines, but I don't like the grinding. Ack!

[prototype3a]

I was thinking earlier that if one were... creative... that you could probably rig up a powered servo and a dremel to sort of automate the grinding. But, yeah, I usually try to avoid that sort of non-sense too. However, on one of my helis we took a six spoke horn and removed three so it looks like a Y. Looks pretty cool and the one arm that might get in the way isn't there to do so.

[fenwayrick]

I have heard from many people that Min Air has quality products backed by great customer service, and so far not only is this kit going together at a great pace, but also top notch quality. I am having so much fun putting this bird together I should of bought 2

[Rich M]

Don't worry Rick after you fly it you will buy a second one!

[adroc3905]

Originally Posted by pcskyhi

http://www.readyheli.com/MIK4021-Car...a_p_35281.html

No mess. no fuss.

Aww man! About a week too late. I also went the dremel route. I knew someone made a horn at 19.5mm - 20mm that would work on Futaba's.

Thanks for the link.

[Rich M]

I actually use the Mikado horns also. They are nice and beefy and they engage very far down on the horn. Much easier than making your own.

[redbird300]

+1. Here are some of the arms I use for Futaba servos when things need to be really strong:

Left top: the Mikado 20 mm Futaba arms.
Right: the even stronger (and longer if needed) Du-Bro servo arms.
Left bottom: core-rc.com alloy arms, these are in fact intended for r/c racing cars.



Dave, fantastic heli !!!

[dauste]

Thanks Raf, I knew I should have asked you about the arms.

I actually quite enjoyed grinding the wheels down though, nothing like a bit of fabrication to while away the hours!

Saying that, I've still got a bit of titanium sheet left and have been eyeing up the tail fin!!

[epc2]

Anybody knows the pitch range on the marks built into the blade Grips??

Thanks,

epc2.