TRM break-in/operation procedures

[bigrcr]

Here is the procedures that come with the TRM G-231 modified motors for all interested. A little lengthy, but necessary for operation of the TRM motors as well as good for any of the Zenoah line.

Later,

BIGRCR- John Garst

Congratulations on your purchase of this Toxic Racing Motors modified Zenoah power plant!

This motor has been modified to provide power and smoothness over the stock motors performance. The end result is a motor that operates smoothly and has a much wider power band at the peak horsepower range. This TRM motor has been designed to operate in the range of 12,250-13,500 RPM, with 12,750-13,250 being the optimum 3-D range for the Spectra-G 3-D model. Other gear ratios are also supported by this motors performance and have been tested with very satisfactory results. Much testing was done using the 6.43:1 gear ratio as well and models using this ratio performed very well.

The Toxic Racing Motor will give literally hundreds of hours of trouble free service. In order for the motor to do this, proper running and break in procedures MUST be utilized. Proper needle settings, oil and oil ratio as well as properly filtered fuel must be used.

Needle Settings

The Zenoah G-231 and G-26 motors are equipped with Walbro 64* (643,644,645) series carburetors. The differences in these will be the options (primer bulb, choke) that are on the units themselves. All of them are needled in the same way.

Low Speed Needle: 1 and ½ turns open from full closed. Never operate at less than 1 and 3/8 turns open. It may be necessary to open this needle initially more than 1 and ½ turns open to get the motor rich enough for break in operation. This needle is very sensitive and very small adjustments are required.

High Speed Needle: 1 and ½ turns open from full closed. Never operate at less than 1 and 3/8 turns open. It may be necessary to open this needle initially more than 1 and ½ turns open to get the motor rich enough for break in operation. This needle is less sensitive than the low needle and slightly larger adjustments can be made.

Always run both needles as rich as possible for satisfactory results. During break in, the needles may both need to be opened slightly each flight as the motor breaks in. Always error to the rich side on both needles as being slightly too rich will not damage the motor, being too lean can cause motor damage.

Fuel Requirements

This motor is designed to be operated on low octane fuel. High-octane fuel is not recommended as it will not add any power and may in fact reduce the available power that motor can produce. Much testing has been done using “camper” fuels. These fuels are the same as what is burned in camp stoves and are marketed under the names Coleman and Ozark brand. This fuel burns much cleaner than gasoline, has virtually no odor, gives essentially the same power as gasoline and has a long shelf life due to not forming varnish “going bad” as stored gasoline will do. Needle settings are nearly identical to those used with gasoline fuel.

Oil Recommendations

Any good quality two-cycle synthetic oil can be used. Follow the oil manufacturers recommendations on mixing ratios. NEVER use outboard motor oil or injector oil. Outboard oil is formulated for use in water-cooled two cycle motors. These oils will damage the motor in short order!

Break- In Oil Fully synthetic oil can be used for break in purposes. However, due to the ring and cylinder hardness, these oils will take much longer to properly break in the motor. It is recommended to break in the motor using quality petroleum based or mineral based oil. The recommended break-in oil is Lawn Boy Ashless mixed at 28.5:1 ratio. This will be 4.5 ounces per gallon. The break in period on this oil will be for approximately one gallon. Many oils are not compatible with one another. The Lawn Boy Ashless oil seems to work very well when followed by running most all synthetics afterward for normal operation.

Normal Operation Oil
The recommended oil for this motor is Amsoil Professional Saber 100:1 Pre Mix oil. Do not confuse this oil with Amsoil Outboard 100:1 oil!

Other good synthetic oils are:
-Klotz with Technoplate (two-cycle pre-mix (no castor!)
-Yamalube 2R
-Honda two-cycle pre-mix

In all of the above cases, use the manufacturers recommendations for mix ratios. Using more oil can have undesirable results leading to deposits, lean running, plug fouling and sticking a ring in its groove.


Fuel Filter/Filtering

The Spectra-G 3-D kit is supplied with a filtered clunk to be used in the tank. Do not fuel through this line, as doing so will introduce possible contaminants into the carburetor side of the filter. If using this motor in another model the use of a good quality filter is recommended. An automotive type fuel filter is also recommended in the fueling line from your fuel canister.

Muffler Choice

Several muffler types were tested on the TRM motor. Many mufflers will not support the RPM that this motor runs at due to backpressure. Miniature Aircraft spent a great deal of time in development of the design for the Hatori Gas Muffler. This muffler is highly recommended for the modified motor and the Spectra-G 3-D.

The stock “can” muffler that is provided with the Zenoah motor will work fairly well with this motor. This muffler, however, at the desired RPM will have a much undesirable tone, but may run cooler than most other types.

Air Filter

It is recommended that an air filter be used on this motor. The stock filter will work adequately.

Break In Procedures

Please take the time to follow these break-in procedures for the first few hours of operation. Failure to do so may result in motor damage from overheating and/or lean operation. The Toxic Racing Motor is a very rugged motor and provides the best power and longevity when properly broken-in.

First Tank/Flight

Set the needles to at least 1 and ½ turns open from full closed. Create a low throttle curve for normal mode and avoid using idle-up for the first tank or so. The throttle curve will most likely be very low using a linear throttle set-up. Ex. 0, 18, 24, 60, 100. It is very important to keep the initial RPM low for the first tank or two.

Start the motor and lift the model into a hover. Make sure that the motor RPM does not get high. If the motor races at all, land and reset the needles (both) to a more rich setting and possibly recheck the pitch curve for proper settings. The throttle curve can be adjusted up or down to accomplish the first hover. Remember! Keep the RPM down.

Fly around a slow forward circuit or hover at slightly changing pitch settings. The idea is to add a very small amount of load to the motor at a time. Slow forward flight will aid in cooling the motor as well. Avoid “punching-out” with throttle or aerobatics during this time. After about 10 minutes of flight, land and allow the motor to cool for at least 45 minutes. The idea here is to “heat-cycle” the motor for the first few flights.

Remember to allow the motor to cool fully (at least 45 minutes) before addition flight or motor running! Allow the motor to idle for a minute or two before shutting it down. This helps to cool the motor and keeps the motor from getting hot after shut down.

With each additional flight, the motor will start to speed up slightly. Adjust the needles more open to keep the motor to the rich side.

NOTE

The Spectra-G 3-D model, due to its gear ratio, will hover in the transition point between the low and high needle. Keep this in mind, as the high needle will need to be richened if the motor seems lean at hover. Other gear ratios (Ex. 6.43:1) will hover on the low needle. The high needle will be used more for wide-open throttle on these gear ratios.

Each additional flight, the motor will break in a little more. Part of proper break-in will be to add small amounts of load to the motor each flight progressively and then letting it cool fully (at least 45 minutes).

During the first gallon of fuel the motor will show signs of breaking in. The motor will seem to pick up power with each additional flight, which may require additional needle richening. Do not worry about making maximum power at this point this will come soon enough. You will be rewarded with a motor that is properly broken-in that will be very responsive and enjoy a long life! Remember that more fuel means more power so don’t lean the motor down for power!


After the first gallon of fuel has been used, it is time to switch to the synthetic oil. The recommended oil and ratio are Amsoil Saber Professional 100:1 Pre-Mix at 50:1 ratio. The ratio of 65:1 can also be used with good results, but 50:1 has proven to run great with no deposits or plug fouling and is recommended.

Richen the needles a bit when switching to the fully synthetic oil fuel. The motor may run a bit rough while it gets used to the new fuel, don’t worry!
The next tank of fuel will again run smooth. This is the process of the motor “pickling” with the new oil and doing a small break-in adjustment.

Remember! Keep the needles on the rich side and keep adding load to the motor each flight. It is now time to try some aerobatics and listen to the motor for any complaints! If at any time you hear what sounds like a boom support rattling or a low buzzing sound, land and richen the needles immediately! This is detonation and the motor is getting hot.


You may also optimize the needle settings at this time, just not too lean!

If you encounter any problems running this motor or have questions on it’s proper operation and break-in, please call Toxic Racing Motors or Miniature Aircraft USA or John Garst for assistance.


Enjoy!


Miniature Aircraft USA (352) 383-3204 minair@earthlink.net
Toxic Racing Motors (407) 461-9225 toxicsnow@MSN.com
John Garst (864) 306-8651 bigrcr@charter.net

[Laurens]

Nice big post

[thenewguy]

That is a great post. I learn more and more about my future heli here every day.

[Toadster25]

I bought some Poulan/WeedEater 2 stroke oil thinking that it would work to break in my new TRM when it gets here. Will this oil work to break in the motor? It is in 3.2 oz bottles and doesn't say if it is synthetic or petroleum based on the bottle. I figured it was petroleum based when I bought it. It only cost $.83 per bottle.
I ordered amsoil pro saber oil to use after the breakin. I read in the operators guide on min. air website it said to use poulan or echo oil that is why I bought this oil. It also said breakin could take 5 gallons so I am very happy to see that it should only take 1 gallon for break in. If it takes 5 gallons that would probably take me all sumer to use that much fuel since these get better fuel economy than my fury.

[bigrcr]

That oil should work fine. The motor may run a bit rough on the first tank or two once you switch to the Amsoil but it will do fine.

[bigrcr]

Initial break-in should be complete at around 1 gallon. This is the point where you should have no problems with pushing the motor into hard aerobatics (provided that the needles are optimally set to the RICH side). Of course you should still use the precautions in the break-in procedures as to cooling after flights and needle settings. It will actually take around 5 gallons (Dependant on oil type) to fully break-in the motor. As the motor breaks-in, the power will continue to increase. As the power gains level out you have the signs that the motor is broken-in or nearly so.

Hope this helps!!

[WillJames]

How many gallons are through your motor John? That thins looks like it is still gaining in power!

[WayneBrown]

I thought I was smart, and didn't call AL for run in tips prior to starting to break in my engine.
BIG mistake!! This is self inflicted and no result of Al's hard work, I screwed up and didn't add enough oil to the gas.

Parts is parts, and now I get to pay Al to redo the work after 3 tanks.

[Azalin]

Thanks. I am planning to fallow your instructions to break-in my stock G290RC.

[Azalin]

I have fouled the spark plug only after first 2 tanks. Is this normal?

[Toxic Al]

not usually,what are your needle settings and what is your engine rpm?

[Azalin]

RPM was like 8100. H needle was 1,75 turns, L 1.25 turns.

Thanks Al

Edit: Motor is G290RC and Carb is WT990

[Toxic Al]

You might want to raise the rpms more to about 10k, 8100 is quite low. if the motor is not reving and the motor has alot of load on it it might be pulling on the high needle which is rich and there is not enough heat in the engine it load up and foul. try raisng your rpms. and if you are using a govener i would dis able it for a while. Peace, Al

[Azalin]

Thanks Al. I am not using a governor yet.

Now i completed the first gallon of fuel. It runs quite smooth. Like you suggest, i increased the RPM. That was about 3 tanks ago. I think i am ready to synthetic oil.

Best Regards

[Azalin]

OK my final settings are 1 3/4 turns on the H, 1 1/4 on the L.

When i richen the L needle more than 1 1/4 the engine wont start BUT according to Al's instructions, i need to richen the L needle more. My current throttle curve is 0, 5, 10 15,100. Oddly this curve gives me about 11500 RPM. However i see the engine runs quite smooth. First gallon of 25:1 fuel is completed. Oil is mineral based 2T oil.

Am i doing something wrong?

[Toxic Al]

those instructions were based on my 231 mod engine but will work for the puh series, the carb on you motor is different and might like a different setting. the key is to keep it rich during break in under moderate load. It sounds like your doing fine. during this gallon of fuel you should see a difference as you make it toward the end of the gallon. after the 2nd gallon you can tune for power. Peace, Al

[Azalin]

Thank you very much Al.

[Doug Darby]

I noticed that the break in procedure and recommendations on this thread are dated in 2004. That being almost 8 years ago, I wondered if they are exactly the same today with the TRM VX231 PUH Stage 1-RS motor. Specifically the recommendation of Lawnboy ashless oil for break in and the warning to stay away from marine synthetic oils?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this...

[tvoth3]

I'm nearly done with the first gallon with petroleum based oil and getting ready to switch to synthetic for my VX300SE. Seen several posts recommending Pennzoil Marine fully synthetic but see the 2004 notation here not to use marine oils. Is this still the case?
Thanks much for your insight on this.
Tom

[KSHeli]

Originally Posted by tvoth3

I'm nearly done with the first gallon with petroleum based oil and getting ready to switch to synthetic for my VX300SE. Seen several posts recommending Pennzoil Marine fully synthetic but see the 2004 notation here not to use marine oils. Is this still the case?
Thanks much for your insight on this.
Tom

Any of the synthetic oils listed will be just fine, the Penzoil Marine Fully Synthetic is what I'm using now. I talked to Al about it and he just said alot of guys are having excellent results with it and said its just fine to use it also.