300X Batteries Reviews

[chrisconn2]

Good for 7 min. of sport flying, putting 80% back in.

[SHYguy]

Still got too much vibrations problems in order to give a performance feedback yet. But I can tell about how they fit. They don't

It's these batteries:
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=26453


They are a bit too long, so I strapped the wires with electrical tape in order to compact them as much as possible.


Tried to add more to the spacers so they don't rub the motor. But it doesn't help, the plastic frame is so soft that this makes it even worse. They still get showed into the motor by the canopy.


Forget about using the stock canopy as it gets warped as well and binds with the collective link on one side.


Not a problem with a Fusuno canopy as it's stiffer. But it still pushes the battery into the motor.

The solution is to either move the canopy mounting holes or use some other canopy. I know stevebaker uses a E-Sky Honeybee canopy if i remember correctly.

[stevebaker]

I also use the stock canopy with the 1500s, though I do have the holes drilled further back (did this on day one)

[Nelsonisms]

Originally Posted by stevebaker

I also use the stock canopy with the 1500s, though I do have the holes drilled further back (did this on day one)

These Fusuno grommets might be good for this. Since you need to make bigger holes to fit them, you can move the position back when you drill out the new holes without having to leave abandoned holes forward of the grommets. The ones for 450 size helis fit the 300 just fine.



http://www.helidirect.com/fusuno-sil...rs-p-28185.hdx

[SHYguy]

Originally Posted by Nelsonisms

These Fusuno grommets might be good for this. Since you need to make bigger holes to fit them, you can move the position back when you drill out the new holes without having to leave abandoned holes forward of the grommets. The ones for 450 size helis fit the 300 just fine.



http://www.helidirect.com/fusuno-sil...rs-p-28185.hdx

Got these already

[Turboparker]

After more than 150 cycles, my TP 1300 65c packs & Hyp VX 1800 35c packs are still performing nearly as well as they did after break-in. (I also use the packs in my Radian Pro & sometimes in my Losi Mini 8ight, so they get plenty of use.) Of course, I never store them fully-charged, never store them below 50 F, never let them sit in the heat, never allow them to cool below 50 F when fully-charged, always use the cold-wx charge function on my charger when flying in sub-freezing wx, and I never discharge them deeper than 80% as measured by how many mAh it takes to recharge.

I find that I usually fly the 300X with the Hyp 1800s, even though the TP packs provide a slightly higher power-to-weight. I'm more of a sport/scale pilot than a 3D pilot, so the increased flight-time is more important to me than the slight decrease in punch, slight increase in disk-loading, and the slight forward shift in CG.

Joel

[SHYguy]

Guys, what' the deal here?

[Turboparker]

Originally Posted by SHYguy

Guys, what' the deal here?

Here's an excellent tutorial on the care & feeding of modern LiPos - courtesy of Hyperion. The guidelines generally apply to all LiPos, regardless of brand - but always check the manufacturer's recommendation for pack-specific details:

LIPO CARE

Break-In Procedure - Hyperion G3 LiPo are robust and do not need a complicated break-in procedure. We recommend that the first 5 uses are limited to 3C charge rates, and that pilots use throttle management to avoid long periods of max-rate discharge for those first 5 flights. Note also the other care suggestions below. Those apply pretty generally to any LiPo pack, not just Hyperion G3...

Discharge - Analysis of damaged packs returned to us by users shows that nearly 70% have suffered from "capacity over-discharge" conditions. This simply means that the pack has been run too long, allowing resting voltage to fall too low. Such damage is visible upon cell inspection at the factory. Every type of battery has a minimum recommended discharge level. For example, even deep-cycle lead-acid batteries should not be regularly discharged down to less than 30%~40% of capacity. In the case of lithium polymer, it is best practice to always leave 20% of rated capacity in the pack at the end of a flight, with 10% as an absolute minimum.

To avoid capacity over-discharge, we recommend the setting of an appropriate cut-off voltage (LVC) AND the use of a transmitter flight timer. For LVC, the appropriate voltage cut-off depends in large on how high the max and average discharge rates are. For very high discharge applications, like F5B competition, something around 3.2V (or even lower) may be desirable. For standard aerobatic flight, start at 3.4V to 3.5V/cell, and set your timer to 4 minutes initially. Then note the capacity charged back IN to the pack on next charge. If the pack is 1000mAh, for example, there should be no more than 800mAh charged back in, meaning that 200mAh remained at the end of the flight (20% of capacity). If the charged IN capacity is less than 800mAh, set the timer a little longer, and check again the next flight. Of course, having the Hyperion Emeter II Remote Data Logger (RDU) makes this even easier, as you can more accurately log the exact mAh Out used each flight and make quick adjustments...

Charge - All Hyperion G3 packs can be charged at 6C rates, with no reduction in cycle life or performance. However, given the negligible difference in charge time for 6C rate vs. 5C, we believe 5C to be the ideal max charge rate for any high-performance Lipo pack. We strongly recommend the use of quality-brand charger, such as the Hyperion EOS lineup, as some generic brand chargers have been shown to use poor components, and may therefore not control charge voltage properly. Hyperion holds that 4.20V/cell (+/- 0.05V) is the proper terminal voltage for Hyperion G3 packs (and all other Lipo). Use of terminal voltages higher than this (for racing, etc) is not covered under warranty, and may be dangerous. (note: some G3 packaging may still state 5C max on front or rear. However, all G3 are rated for 6C max no-loss.)

PLEASE be sure that charging is always done such that in case of fire, no damage nor injury can occur. Keep LiPo well separated (minimum 2M or 7') from flammables, and always use a brick enclosure or "LiPo sack" to insure that any possible fire can be contained. We strongly discourage charging within or near living spaces, or inside automobiles. LiPo charging should be monitored closely at all times.

Temperature - For best performance and cycle life, your Hyperion G3 battery packs should have a resting temperature no lower than 10 °C (50 °F) at the beginning of a Flight, or beginning of Charging. Keep the batteries inside your vehicle or a warmer of some kind on very cold days, to insure best performance and life (this is true for any LiPo, not just G3). If you have any concerns about the temperature on cold days and you have Hyperion NET or DUO charger, you can use the TCS function set to 90% to help insure that the batteries do not suffer over-voltage condition due to the temperature.

Physical - Never cause indentations to the covering of the pack, or cells underneath. Do not use a ball-point pen to write on the pack, for example. Use a felt-tip pen with light pressure instead. When installing packs in the model, insure that they have the best protection possible from impact and pressure damage. Use foam casing if possible. Do not over-tighten hold down straps. Straps should be cloth (velcro) as opposed to hard plastic, such as zip ties. External damage to any Lipo pack can cause salts formations which reduce performance, and in more severe cases can cause fires during charging. Impact Damaged packs should be fully discharged, and disposed of immediately. See below for Hyperion Warranty, and Crash Replacement Program details.

Storage - Lipo should never be stored fully charged, or with less than 50% of capacity remaining. We strongly recommend Hyperion EOS chargers, as they have automatic STORE functions to insure that the packs are in the range of about 60%~70% capacity (3.78V~3.92V resting voltage per cell). After returning home for the day, simply use STORE MODE to achieve this automatically. Batteries are best stored in a cool, dry environment (2~20 °C or 37~68 °F).

Joel

[xokia]

I have about 12 1300mAh 45-90c nano-techs and 2 eflights
The eflights are lame

The nano-tech work well but get somewhat warm.
they have appox a 30mOhm IR

I always charge at 5 amps.

[Inverted2112]

Don't think I chimed in, but I've become a big fan of Pulse Ultras as well. I've had great luck using the 1350's in the 300X and the 2250 45C's in the 450's. Just ordered a 6S last night.

[Nelsonisms]

I'm liking the Pulse Ultra 1350mah 35C packs in the 300X as well. I have two of those and 2 of the 1300mah 30C E-flite stock batteries (from that promotion they had going a while back when I bought the heli). They actually seem pretty similar to me. I think the Pulse ones perform a little better, but not by much. However; for nearly half the cost of the stock battery, the Pulse packs are a no-brainer. I suppose I should measure the IR since my charger has that feature. I've just been too lazy to go figure it out.

I've always been a little leary about anything sold by HobbyKing, but I did give the 2250mah 65C-130C Nano-Tech batteries a shot in the 450X and I actually like them. They come down much cooler with less voltage sag (logged via ESC & telemetry) than the the stock E-Flite 2200mah 30C packs on the 450X. I guess I'd be willing to give Nano-techs a shot in the 300X if they perform close to the Pulses since they are a little bit cheaper.

[helibus]

Originally Posted by Inverted2112

Don't think I chimed in, but I've become a big fan of Pulse Ultras as well. I've had great luck using the 1350's in the 300X...

+1. Only a few cycles on the pair of 1350 Ultra's I have, but they both read IR of 5 milliohms or less in every cell. Less than 1/4 of the IR for the new stock battery that came with the 300X. IDK - maybe that's typical.

[xokia]

Originally Posted by helibus

+1. Only a few cycles on the pair of 1350 Ultra's I have, but they both read IR of 5 milliohms or less in every cell. Less than 1/4 of the IR for the new stock battery that came with the 300X. IDK - maybe that's typical.

My experience has been the pulse ultras are better than the regular nano-techs. The pulse have a lower IR. Pulse also seems to underate the C rating on a few batteries. No telling if that will continue for the future but it is what it is now.

[MrCrash]

Overlander are the best batteries IMO !

http://www.overlander.co.uk/batterie...w-battery.html

Nano-Tech 1300 are OK, cheap and therefore encourage buying higher qty.


For what it's worth, I have always set my charger to run charge / discharge for 5 cycles before using, and then break in for a few flights @ 50% flight time before extending to achieve 75% +/- capacity. I parallel charge at 1C wherever possible.

[Bloosee]

I'd been using some NanoTech 1300's and some Zippy compact 1300 packs. Both those batteries come down very warm, the NanoTech's come down HOT. I don't what's up with Nano's they work fine in my planes, they have a lot of cycles in them from my planes so I quit using them. I recently bought some Glacier 1300 30C packs from EP Buddy. Those are working great, then come down barely warm, give good power and fit perfectly.

[TimLa]

+1 on the Glaciers. 5:00 flight time slow flight/hovering/mellow stuff and they are right at storage voltage, barely warm.

[krdavis28]

+1 on the 1500 Nanotechs. got 2 of these and they rock. They are a little larger and heavier but since I have the MH carbon frame with the adjustable batt tray they work great. I am very interested in the Glaciers . I have 4 of these for my 550 and they are great. Strong and charge very evenly and are listed at 35c but perform more like a 40 or 45c and can handle everything I do on the 550 and come down barely warm after about 4.5 to 5 min of idle up 2 flying. Back when I was just hovering and sport flying, I was getting 6 to 7 mins of flying time and 28 to 35% left in the batts. Big fan of Glacier and becoming a fan of Nano's.

[SHYguy]

After 2 runs I must say the Nano-Tech 1500 packs are great Steve! Good find!

Lots of power, perfect COG, come down barely warm

[SHYguy]

Just find some cheap 450 alu mounts. Easy to mount, solid and looks ok

[SHYguy]