Several issues with new Nano CPS out the box

[Silverexpress01]

Thanks, that helped the tail rotor.

I got a call back from HH, who reassured me that nothing was wrong with the heli. That the swash is not suppose to return square with the mainshaft, and that FBLs that do do that are programmed wrong! Since nothing has really failed, I had nothing more to go on than it flies like crap in FM #1 and #2. No exchange, no refund.

A newbie won't now the difference, which is sad. Also the expo they recommend in the manual is way to slow.

Anyhow, I've come to the conclusion that this is just a badly programmed FM#1 and #2. I can mimick the same behavior in a SK720 by turning down what's called the Hiller Decay, and turning up the head holding function.

Ironically, my Nano CPX flies better in all modes than the CPS in FM #1 and #2. Lol. Oh well. I'll go seek some youtubers for more confirmation. And will probably call HH back with a more firm and direct request for an exchange (who knows maybe the later batches were corrected) or a refund. By the way, pay heed to the warning below!

[Synchronome]

That warning won't work in the UK. Our contract is with the retailer and they are responsible for supplying a product fit for purpose.

[Silverexpress01]

Originally Posted by Synchronome

That warning won't work in the UK. Our contract is with the retailer and they are responsible for supplying a product fit for purpose.

This is a far cry from the quality of the 180 cfx that I also have. That one flew incredibly well out of the box. Its the same with my old venerable blade 400, but it did need a better tail gyro. I still have it although now it sports 450x FBL parts, a Beastx Plus, and so overall it's flying better than ever. Picked up an Inductrix, and although I find quads pretty numbing to fly- this little guy is quite actually relaxing and fun especially with pets. Same with my Nano qx fpv, and 200 qx. Both top notch products. But this - CPS! They must've contracted the programming of this thing to a third party!

I wonder if there are two flight controller boards out in the wild. Maybe a ver.1.0 and a ver. 1.2?

Update: I've decided to hold onto the CPS a little while longer. Maybe it just needs a few things adjusted and a few links to loosen up. Also I found a better way to re-calibrate. Do this at your own risk.

For computer radios: (I have a bind-n-fly, so I'm not sure if this will work with the rtf tx).
1. Find a level surface (preferably a table- it must be level!), and use a timer...like your watch.
2. Use an object to hold down the skids so that the heli is held still when you plug and unplug the battery.
3. Do not use the battery holder, just lay the battery next to the heli.
4. Go thru the steps of getting the CPS into calibration mode.
5. Instead of taking off, place the heli in Flight Mode Hold. This will prevent the motor from spooling up.
6. Now increase the throttle to turn on calibration. Go about half throttle. DO NOT MOVE the cyclic stick. Again the motor should not spool up since it is in Hold mode.
7. After 30 seconds, lower the throttle to turn off calibration mode, and gently remove the battery to store the accelerometer values.

Now test hover it. The Accelerometers require a second or two to kick on, so the heli may noticeably drift in a certain direction before it stabilizes. If it continually drifts in a certain direction, level your swash. If it still drifts, then use a click of subtrim to counter the drift. Just a step is needed (use subtrim in your menu assuming your using a computer radio). Recalibrate as above whenever you make a mechanical or sub trim adjustment.

[Jboogy10]

So I was having the same issue of my swashplate moving all the left/forward when switching to 3D mode while the heli is sitting on the bench. This is due to fact that the heli is sitting on the bench/ground.

When you switch to 3D mode the collective/throttle stick is all the way down at 0% negative pitch (lowest position). what this is doing is pulling the heli into the ground because in 3D mode when the collective/throttle stick is in the middle or 50%, the blades are at perfect pitch and the heli will not go up or down. This is done because it enables the heli to fly inverted.

They don't put this in the manual and I have not read it anywhere online...

Solution:
A: I find the easiest way is to bring the heli to a hover in stability/mode 1, and the flip the switch to 3D/mode 2 mid flight. When your hovering I find it best to bring your collective/throttle stick half way/50% and then flip to 3D/mode 2. Otherwise if you have full throttle and flip it to 3D/mode 2 your heli will instantly climb upward. I suggest doing this over grass when your first learning because when you flip that switch to 3D you now have full control and it is much more difficult to fly.

B: If you want to take off from the ground switch to stabilty/mode 1. Move your right/cyclic stick and pull it all the way down and to the right. Switch to 3D and slowly bring your collective/throttle stick up to half way/50%. Now slowly increase your collective/throttle stick and take off. I find this way more difficult than just switching to 3D/mode 2 mid hover.

Hope this helps because I could find no solution anywhere on the web. Have fun and enjoy your Blade Nano CPS.

[ssrobzoom]

Go through the calibration mode which is mentioned on Blade Heli web site this should make it fly better.