Should I remove the idle pulley ???

[JEB123]

Originally Posted by HydroJoe

I see it too. Must just be longer bolts?

That's why I'm asking, is it safe to use threaded bolts? Couldn't the threads eat at plastic blades? I know it's pretty unlikely, but I can't find longer M2 shoulder screws so I can add the lock nuts.

[HydroJoe]

Originally Posted by JEB123

That's why I'm asking, is it safe to use threaded bolts? Couldn't the threads eat at plastic blades? I know it's pretty unlikely, but I can't find longer M2 shoulder screws so I can add the lock nuts.

I think threaded bolts would work fine. Its not like the blades are moving alot in the grips. Try it and keep an eye on it

Can I ask why you want to use locknuts? What is wrong with stock hardware and locktite? In over a thousand flights I have never had a tail bolt come loose.

[JEB123]

Originally Posted by HydroJoe

I think threaded bolts would work fine. Its not like the blades are moving alot in the grips. Try it and keep an eye on it

Can I ask why you want to use locknuts? What is wrong with stock hardware and locktite? In over a thousand flights I have never had a tail bolt come loose.

Thanks for your reply HydroJoe, I don't know, I built a scale Hughes and had to remove the tail a bunch of times to get it right, and it's a pain applying the loctite over and over. I've also tried a lot of different tail blades. The stock setup just doesn't seem too secure, sometimes, in order for the screw to feel tight enough, the blades end up too tight and won't move. I've heard this can cause vibration. With the lock nuts you can thread the screw into the holder loosely enough so the blades have play, and use the lock nut to secure it. Just makes sense to have the same system as the main blades. Besides, I hate philips head screws!

[HydroJoe]

Do you have a LHS around. Mine has Dubro hardware as well as stuff for cars. I can usually find something to work when I need an odd size (in hex head.) I wouldn't worry too much about not using shoulder bolts. Like I said, just find something the correct size and try it out. It's not like it's gonna explode or anything. I think the worst that will happen is the tail blades might oval out. Threads DO weaken a bolt but the distance between the grip is small. If you don't feel comfortable with that check rcscrews. Mabey they have something.

[JEB123]

Originally Posted by HydroJoe

Do you have a LHS around. Mine has Dubro hardware as well as stuff for cars. I can usually find something to work when I need an odd size (in hex head.) I wouldn't worry too much about not using shoulder bolts. Like I said, just find something the correct size and try it out. It's not like it's gonna explode or anything. I think the worst that will happen is the tail blades might oval out. Threads DO weaken a bolt but the distance between the grip is small. If you don't feel comfortable with that check rcscrews. Mabey they have something.

Yep, I have regular M2x10mm screws I can try. I just got an RCScrewz catalog, I'm gonna check that too.
Thanks bro!

[Gary JP4]

Many (myself included) have done the Chinese weights mod by attaching the balls (weights) to the blade holder screws instead of drilling and tapping the holders for screws. Many folks in the Chinese weight mod thread did it this way, or at least tried the mod this way for a time, before doing it right. When doing so you pretty much have to use full length threaded bolts (not shoulder bolts) because shoulder bolts that long don't have the shoulder in the right place. It is too long. The threads on full length bolts don't cause a problem with the blades.

I am not saying that is the best way to do the mod. I would recommend buying Fireup's jig, drill, and tap. Just that the blades work OK with threaded bolts going through them.

[JEB123]

Originally Posted by Gary JP4

Many (myself included) have done the Chinese weights mod by attaching the balls (weights) to the blade holder screws instead of drilling and tapping the holders for screws. When doing so you pretty much have to use full length threaded bolts (not shoulder bolts) because shoulder bolts that long don't have the shoulder in the right place. It is too long. The threads on full length bolts don't cause a problem with the blades.

I am not saying that is the best way to do the mod. I would bet Fireup's jig. Just that the blades work OK with threaded bolts going through them.

Thanks Gary, I was also thinking that if the main blade bolts are threaded, what's the difference, right? They don't really move because of the centrifugal force anyway. It's not like they're spinning on the bolt axis. I'm gonna try it. Thanks to everyone!

[Gary JP4]

All of this was was discussed in Fireup's very long Chinese weights mod thread including the fact that the main blades run on the threads of the holder screws as you pointed out. Many tried the mod using longer blade holder bolts to hold the weights. Some only put weights on one side of the holder. All methods worked to varying degrees.

Putting a nut on a longer bolt and even just the longer bolt alone will increase weight and have some affect in reducing the actuating load on the tail like the Chinese weight mod adding to the effect if you already have done the Chinese weights mod. If you haven't done it yet I would get a bolt long enough to allow the weights and do that at the same time and give it a try. I forget the length. That is covered in the thread also.

Good luck.

[JEB123]

Originally Posted by Gary JP4

All of this was was discussed in Fireup's very long Chinese weights mod thread including the fact that the main blades run on the threads of the holder screws as you pointed out. Many tried the mod using longer blade holder bolts to hold the weights. Some only put weights on one side of the holder. All methods worked to varying degrees.

Putting a nut on a longer bolt and even just the longer bolt alone will increase weight and have some affect in reducing the actuating load on the tail like the Chinese weight mod adding to the effect if you already have done the Chinese weights mod. If you haven't done it yet I would get a bolt long enough to allow the weights and do that at the same time and give it a try. I forget the length. That is covered in the thread also.

Good luck.

Thanks!

[TomRex]

Well, I'm not that crazy, but what's that silver thing visible on the opposite side of the blade holder screw heads just above and below the inside balance balls? It sure looks bigger than just the end of the screws! My screws don't come out the other side of the blade holder.

Originally Posted by JEB123

That's why I'm asking, is it safe to use threaded bolts? Couldn't the threads eat at plastic blades? I know it's pretty unlikely, but I can't find longer M2 shoulder screws so I can add the lock nuts.

I think I used some old style tail slider harness to tail grip sholder screws when I did a rebuild.

[Gary JP4]

Many folks have been running longer the blades running on the threads (myself included) with no problem of blade hold wear.

If you like the mod I would suggest eventualy using the jig and putting the balls closer to the hub but it works fine like this and does what it is supposed to do. Not becuase the baldes are running on the threads but if that bothers you you can then go back to the regular bolts as well.

If you are doing the mod (not just adding length for a nut) the length you need to allow for two standard balls and a nut on the end is about 19mm. I used a M2x20 and cut it down 1 to 1.5mm. If you just want a nut on the end (not the mod) take your stock length and add the length for a nut.

You can get them here. http://rtlfasteners.com/RC/index.html or the exact page for M2x20 here: http://rtlfasteners.com/RC/cm2020.html

For the jig to do the setup right PM Fireup, details here. Click the here or below to go to that thread.

Originally Posted by fireup

The slide-on mod is working good. Still need more testing and a 1:1 comparison with the orginal mod. I also need to figure a way to mass produce these as they are so small I need to find a good way to hold it for the second and third op. on the CNC.

Meanwhile, for those who wants to do the original mod. with the drill and tap, I made a production run of the drill jig. If anyone is interested it's $12 shipped(US/Canda) for just the jig, $21 total for jig, drill and tap. PM me if interested. The only other tool you'll will need is a hand drill. PM me for PayPal info.

My test set up from Fireups thread:

Originally Posted by Gary JP4

I did the mod with a ball on each side of the blade holder on the blade mounting screw with the screw coming form the outside (right) to inside (left). I put a nut on the inside over the ball. 20mm would hit the slider control arm on mine. I used 20mm and cut it down 1 or 2mm. I also used lock nuts and had to cut them down to the same as a regular nut to keep from hitting. I had to cut off the lock and basically turn it into a regular nuts thickness (I didn't have and regular nuts).

[Sir J David]

So, I guess I will remove my idler pulley to. Has only 6 flights on my new SE V2 and had no problems so far. But it scares me hearing about the problems I can get with leaving the pulley on.

Just wonder, how many of you leave the bearings from the pulley on the heli? And do you think it will fill any funktion?

[pwoodyp]

Originally Posted by Sir J David

Just wonder, how many of you leave the bearings from the pulley on the heli? And do you think it will fill any funktion?

I left my bearing in place... no function just aesthetics. The empty space without the idler not to mention the fact it's the plastic SA tail just bugged me

[Skarn]

I didn't put mine back in....it's fine without.

Skarn

[JEB123]

Originally Posted by Skarn

I didn't put mine back in....it's fine without.

Skarn

Bearing? What? Am I nuts, or does the SE v2 not have a bearing there? It's been so long since I removed it I don't remember!

[Skarn]

Originally Posted by JEB123

Bearing? What? Am I nuts, or does the SE v2 not have a bearing there? It's been so long since I removed it I don't remember!

People call it a bearing, but it's actually a spacer per se.

Skarn

[pwoodyp]

NO... It's a bearing... how would the idler spin if it wasn't... I'm pretty certain it's a bearing and not a spacer

[crehop]

REMOVE THE PULLEY IT SUCKS I HAD MY TREX OUT ON LIEK THE 4th FLIGHT AFTER WEARING IT IN I PUT IT IN IDLEUP AND THE BELT TORE ISTELF TO BITS ON THE PULLEY! NARROWLY AVOIDED CRASHING! its garbage and should be chucked out

[Skarn]

We all agree crehop...no need to yell at the Choir

Well...except for a few stubborn people at RCGroups that is! For some reason they continue to argue against removing it!

Skarn

[JEB123]

Originally Posted by pwoodyp

NO... It's a bearing... how would the idler spin if it wasn't... I'm pretty certain it's a bearing and not a spacer

You're right pwoodyp! I just pulled it out of my extra parts box (the idler) and it is a bearing in there! I would have lost that bet, I never looked at it that closely!