Trex 600E Build Videos will be here:

[cskiller26]

Bob, It was nice meeting you at the Fun Fly this weekend.

[dingfangle]

These videos are great!! I do have a question however. My T-rex arived and both the R-48 and the T-43 bottles are empty. I know that regular "blue loctite" can be used instead of the T-43. But what do I use for the R-43??? Is "red loctite" OK for this????
Thanks

[Essie]

Thanks Bob for the helpfull video material, it REALLY helped. Just waiting for the gyro and then will do final setup.

I have asked it somewhere else, so pse bear with me. Will the 600 at least run ok with 4S 4100MaH evo flitepower 20c? Keep in mind that I only fly around mildly nothing like you guys are doing. Or do I need to connect my 2 spare packs (4S 4100MaH) in series?

I have a spare 120A ESC in one of my (much) bigger funflys. I am not sure it can do the "soft start" part though but can handle up to 50V.

thanks

[Finless]

No the Trex will not fly on 4S due to the motor KV. If you go 8S then your going to have a problem with the stock motor and RPM!!! Also the Align ESC cant do 8S.

Bob

[Essie]

Thanks Bob, i have purchased 4 x 3S 2200Mah Hyperion Litestorm VX's, hope they will be up for the job.

Just something else, you've mentioned that the servo arm lenghts must be parrallel to the bellcranks (15mm each way). I'm using the JR nes 591's and the distance is short by 3mm each side - nothing else in the servo packet matches and the hs422's red horns does not fit. Our Local HB does not carry hitecs. Will this have a major effect on the heli?
thanks-essie

[Finless]

Will this have a major effect on the heli?

YES! It must be as close to 15mm as possible! 3mm on each side is a total of 6mm which is going to be way off and your geometery will be really messed up!

Bob

[Essie]

Hi Bob, I just finished the elevator servo and linkages....i'll tell you honestly that was a real bitc.., sorry, bit of hard work with my "toes for thumbs" fingers. And the lenghts they give in the manual is incorrect anyway. (for those elevator links, which they say take off a 1mm). I realized that mine were correct from the start.

Now it is on to the gyro and servo, as per your video-thanks again for all th help. If you ever come this way, let me know...
regards-essie

[Wirestealth]

hi! Bob did you have cut the hitec servo horns to not hit the canopy?

I have the same horns and they hit the canopy!

Thanks

Nuno from Portugal!

[Finless]

While mine did hit the canopy it was very light! But I did later shorten them.

Bob

[Mercuriell]

Small point Bob - if you had used the spare washer under the bellcranks you might not have had any endfloat. My kit came with x2 0.5mm shim washers and x2 0.2mm washers. In the manual it points out that they are used for adjustment and I found that using all 4 got rid of any discernible end float (though I don't have a dial gauge )

[Jason Bell]

ok how can you run 9252s on the stock set up?

[marhund@online.no]

Hello.
Just a question from a complete Rookie from Norway. (My first assambly).

In step nr. 11 you got a washer to spare. I got 2. But I notised I got some more end-play then you got, so I used the washer on the out side of the to Aileron Levers to make it tighter. Is this wrong or less correct way of assambly? It was then very tight and nice, with absolutly no end-play.

And bye the way. Thanks for super importent video guidens with the bilding of the trex...

Best regards from Martin

[Finless]

Originally Posted by Mercuriell

Small point Bob - if you had used the spare washer under the bellcranks you might not have had any endfloat. My kit came with x2 0.5mm shim washers and x2 0.2mm washers. In the manual it points out that they are used for adjustment and I found that using all 4 got rid of any discernible end float (though I don't have a dial gauge )

Yea... the early kits didnt show the extra washer. They do now.

Bob

[Finless]

Originally Posted by torkboy2

ok how can you run 9252s on the stock set up?

Huh? Why not?

Bob

[Finless]

Originally Posted by marhund@online.no

Hello.
Just a question from a complete Rookie from Norway. (My first assambly).

In step nr. 11 you got a washer to spare. I got 2. But I notised I got some more end-play then you got, so I used the washer on the out side of the to Aileron Levers to make it tighter. Is this wrong or less correct way of assambly? It was then very tight and nice, with absolutly no end-play.

And bye the way. Thanks for super importent video guidens with the bilding of the trex...

Best regards from Martin

Yes that is good and will work fine. They now give an extra washer int he kit for this purpose.

Bob

[G-DAVE]

Just found the site today -- Built my Trex 600 last week and had the maiden flight on Sunday gone - it's awesome.
But I really would like to thank Bob on his Video build sequence , it's an outstanding achievement and although mine is done I found it very useful as a recap on my build and confirmation that it's put together okay.
Regards Dave

[G-DAVE]

When Bob describes putting on the tail rotor servo tray. He seems to have the carbon servo tray between the clamp ends and not directly under the self tapper - as shown in the instructions .
Could this be why he mentions the need for cable tie shims because the clamp is not tight, they go real tight with the tray as shown in the manual.
Dave

[Finless]

Hmmm good point!
I didnt notice that myself but that would remove the need for the cable ties under the clamps. BUT I like the angle of the servo this way myself.

Thanks for pointing that out!

Bob

[wave12]

Hi Bob, Great video on directions. I am having a problem. How do you get your servos to move like that? I saw when you move on the other two go the other direction. I have a futaba t9chp trans. so when i move the pitch the other two servos should move to. Oh boy I need help.

[Finless]

You dont have the right SWASH set! I bet your set for a HDE heli. Go in and set for SW-3 swash type.

Bob