Looking for a new frame!

[onehot69stepside]

well, cf is good when its the right thickness and ACTUALLY carbon fiber. The belt cp frames aren't carbon. I believe they are double sided texalium. Pretty much just a basic fiberglass board with a microscopic layer of silver on it. They could be graphite too, maybe. Either way they SUCK! Esky could do alot of things, but i think they make boats, planes, and cars too so they might not be able to focus on products that are already making money, maybe, just a thought.

my frame kit is $45.95

get the free battery tray substitution, or add $5 if you want the free fin as well

Heres the part thats not cost effective...

the screw and spacer set is on heli direct for $17 with 2-5 day shipping for a little under $3

the bearing block set is $16 on helidirect as well for about the same shipping cost

so thats about $86. which is ouchie!

[B2TheEYo]

Ouchie indeed!

Interesting to hear they aren't using legitimate carbon fiber - I think that's kinda um, a poor move on their behalf to trick people like that. =S

No doubt your theory is correct. When a company is all over they cannot dedicate the appropriate time to improve on products. That should be clear with the V2 Belt - Not a bloody thing changed on that thing besides the canopy design and a few new painted parts - I think it has an improved stock swashplate now. Otherwise it's the same jazz. =/

[nasukaren]

I'm saving up for your E-smart sides ....

I'd also love Trex450 side plates, but I suppose that market is pretty well saturated?

Karen

[B2TheEYo]

My CopterX Tail/Head came today - damn what a difference in quality compared to the Esky crap..

Should I trip it all down and Threadlock it? I assumed it already is but then again when I opened the package the anti-rotation pin which has one of the linkages could be unscrewed by hand which leads me to think "what else isn't threadlocked...".

[Heli Yea!]

Yep any new CNC parts you buy you should always strip down ant thread lock and don't forget to grease up the thrust bearings!

[B2TheEYo]

Will do - Thanks.

[lankey]

Yup

+1 on the strip down. An absolute must.

I'd also recommend you size the ball links which were really tight on mine. Either purchase a ball link sizer or make your own by scoring the surface of a spare ball. Recommend you watch the Finless vid on the subject.

Cheers
Steve

[Ian 777]

Hi steve how you doin mate

You really cant go too far on making sure every thing is spot on with your new head B2, check that the screws holding the washout arm links to the wash out arms are correctly tightened and locked with a spot of CA. too loose and they introduce slop to the head, too tight and they obviously bind.

[B2TheEYo]

=D thanks for the tips and advice guys!

I'm a bit concerned with the tightening. I find if I tighten it to much the movement kinda does this whole "snap to a grid" kinda movement, but it's not hard to move at all when it does it and if I loosen the screw just a little bit - wham - slop galore. I've noticed it on all heli head parts actually.

It's difficult to explain so let me try to elobrate.... A part will move really well with no slop but it seems every few degrees it kinda feels like a bump of some sort but again it move smooth it just weird! I've noticed in the past when I stripped down my Esky stock head a lot of the parts were like that from the factory.

It's questionable to say the least if it's a normal thing or not?

Other then that, I fixed up my Belt's head and also threadlocked and polished up and greased up my CopterX head - not gonna bother with the tail quiet yet since I likely will have to take it apart once the rest of the parts come to get the heli built.

Gotta say though - damn can't get over the difference in quality between the Esky heads and this CopterX one. Difference of night and day...

[nasukaren]

I'm really surprised at the CopterX head as well. I'm not sure if I'm not flying into the ground as much because of it, but I do know my heli has been much much more stable the last two flights.

It's also much more solid, I plowed my woods into the ground twice and the head took it gracefully. No bent feathering shafts, what a relief!!!!

Karen

[Heli Yea!]

+1 Karen The CopX head puts you higher on the learning curve and is much easier to set up! I myself found I was a much better pilot just by adding the CopX head!

[lankey]

Hiya Ian

Mate, I'm just fine and dandy cheers... said I was gonna post here a bit more, so here I am! Hope you're keeping good?

Mike

Been having the same problem, especially in the flybar seesaw... tighten it up and loads of binding. Loosen it off, nice and smooth but loads of slop! I even called into question the tolerances in the CNC and nearly gave up on the CX head cos it was driving me bloody crazy!

Nearly bought the Align SEV2 seesaw but thought I'd swap out to Align bearings and see what difference they would make. Fitted the Align HS1288T flanged bearings to the seesaw, snugged up the screws quite tight... behold, lovely smooth movement.

Probably gonna swap out all the bearings in the head to Align as I think there's a moral to this story somewhere!

Steve

[B2TheEYo]

I was scared that it would be the bearings would just be lack-luster in quality or defective!

The kinda snappy movement isn't too bad, not quiet a binding (but it will bind if I tighten it more ). But like I was saying the movement is kinda..."snap to grid" - only way I can think of explaining it! I think I'd settle with it as long as it's not hard for the servo to push (for now it isn't) and doesn't hinder the accuracy of the movements.

Funny, I'm having the issues in the same place! on the arms that attach to the seesaw. One if fine, the other does that whole "snap to grid" kinda thing. Tad frustrating.

Thanks for the input Steve! I'll have to add the bearings to my wishlist of the other 500 things I got that I plan to order in the next round.


I think I need to open a LHS of my own here, there isn't any otherwise. Dumb small little country side towns.

[lankey]

Mike

The "snap to grid" is exactly how I would have described the binding! I'll be moving on to those mixer arms this afternoon, and I think I've got some Align bearings for the job in the spares box... let you know how I get on.

Yes, it's frustrating when peeps report how good the CX stuff is. They've obviousely had better luck with the bearings than us. Not adversed to swapping out to Align, but it's more a case of shouldn't have to!

Steve

[helihathnofury]

Steve, what is the part number of the Align bearings which fit in the end of the blade holders allowing the blade holders to rotate around the feathering shaft? There seem to be lots of different ones. I am using the V2 fx shafts in a CX head.
Cheers

[lankey]

Hi Mike

Not replaced those bearings as they seem to be nice and smooth! Just pulled out my copy of the Trex450SEV2 manual, and annoyingly you need two different sets of bearings:

Blade side of grips: HS1032

Head side of grips: HS1222

Hope that helps mate
Steve

[Ian 777]

Very well thanks Steve

Mmm this is interesting I have never had any problem with either of the 2 CX heads or tails I have had, they have absorbed plenty of crash damage without complaining and have not had any bearing problems.

They are very cheap now I wonder if they are cutting corners now they are being bought in large quantities.

[B2TheEYo]

Steve,

Good to hear I described it perfectly. Wasn't quiet sure if other people come across that function on a computer or not that they'd understand.

I definitely agree, some people have all the luck!

I'm gonna go over all my moving parts in my head and see what's messy and what's not then I guess get me some bearings. I'm half tempted to try it as is to be honest if I do indeed find nothing to.. um.. 'snappy'. =P

Ian, that's more then likely true. So far all the bearings I've come across, their is always a good share of them that suck once everything is tightened. It's becoming a problem!

[Ian 777]

Bearings are pretty cheap Mike I'm sure it's certainly worth getting it right.

[Heli Yea!]

I'm just wondering but if you are not careful when thread locking and get some on/in the bearing it will make movement "choppy". I wonder if this is the cause like Ian I've never had problems with the bearings except one in the blade grip breaking after a hard crash.