Trex 500 Build Videos

[Josh S]

is there any build Videos of the new trex 500E Pro

I'm am new to the bigger heli i started with an old trex 450Se

[ChrisH]

Originally Posted by Josh S

what is the best tail servo to use that will fit in the frame without mods

Mini-size is what you want to be looking for if you want it to fit in the frame. Popular choices: Futaba S9257 (there is also a BLS variant called the BLS257), JR 3500G, Align DS520, etc.

Originally Posted by Josh S

do i need a receiver with a sat or can i just use one like in the blade 400

If you are going to be getting the combo with the 3GX (FBL) or the GP900 (FB), then you can use just satellites. I'd recommend two for best results.

Originally Posted by Josh S

is there any build Videos of the new trex 500E Pro

I'm am new to the bigger heli i started with an old trex 450Se

The 500E Pro is really pretty similar to the older 500 in terms of building ... just follow the directions and post here or in the 500 Pro section if you have questions

[Josh S]

I just got my 5245 cyclic servo and stock esc and motor I order the gyro 520 and 9257 tail servo but what receiver should i get I am using a dx6i Radio

[ChrisH]

Any full-range Spektrum 6-channel ... AR6210 would be a good choice.

[ddj74]

Originally Posted by Josh S

do i need a receiver with a sat or can i just use one like in the blade 400

Doesn't matter what you use as long as its 6 channels or more tx/rx. Some have better ranges then others.

[Josh S]

the direction show 21mm from center the long arm i can find put in at 19.5mm and they don't fit in the frame so i think i am going to have to file the frame opening to put in the 5245 servo on the new pro frame.

[UnionJack72]

WOW... I have to say these videos are AWESOME

My new Trex 500 arrived yesterday afternoon, and by this morning I am on step 10 and everything seems perfect..!!

That includes taking the time to TechFlex and heatshrink all my servo wires.

The servo setup and head setup videos, are an amazing help...

For my first kit build, I'm shocked how detailed and how helpful these videos, AND this forum has been.

Huge thanks to Bob, and huge thanks to all the forum members

[ddj74]

Originally Posted by UnionJack72

WOW... I have to say these videos are AWESOME

My new Trex 500 arrived yesterday afternoon, and by this morning I am on step 10 and everything seems perfect..!!

That includes taking the time to TechFlex and heatshrink all my servo wires.

The servo setup and head setup videos, are an amazing help...

For my first kit build, I'm shocked how detailed and how helpful these videos, AND this forum has been.

Huge thanks to Bob, and huge thanks to all the forum members

Glad your setup is going well

[UnionJack72]

Originally Posted by Finless

OK I am going to use the Solid-G gyro from Curtis Youngblood on this heli. So these vids are all about setting that up! If your using somthing else then see my MANY other setups for the 401, 611, SpartanRC, etc... But this section will be all about setting up the Curtis Solid-G with the Trex500

Where/How do I find the other setup videos you mention?

Many thanks

[ddj74]

Originally Posted by UnionJack72

Where/How do I find the other setup videos you mention?

Many thanks

In the Newbie section...

https://www.helifreak.com/forumdisplay.php?f=59

[VonRecktofen]

Hey gang,
Just finished a 500 build, thanks again to Bob, its perfect! Anyway, what throttle curve should I use for normal mode? Should I follow Align manual recommended, or use curve from 450 build...I installed 12 T pinion, and mostly sport fly, hover orientations and forward flight...No massive 3 D yet!

[jeremy cooksey]

Just bought a 3G 500 fbl head conversion. Wondering how tight do you tightn this against the shaft. I also burned up my analog cyclic servos. Guess you caint use analog servos on 3G. Should have read the manual .

[jeremy cooksey]

Added pic to the original question. Thanks

[ChrisH]

Originally Posted by jeremy cooksey

Just bought a 3G 500 fbl head conversion. Wondering how tight do you tightn this against the shaft. I also burned up my analog cyclic servos. Guess you caint use analog servos on 3G. Should have read the manual .

Tight enough so it doesn't move

[jeremy cooksey]

So do I move it up to where the washout arms are level across

[jeremy cooksey]

Where is a good build log for the trex 500 upgrade to the align 3G and fbl head ? Thanks

[ChrisH]

Originally Posted by jeremy cooksey

So do I move it up to where the washout arms are level across

Yes, they should be level and the linkage rods from the swash to the blade grips should be straight up and down.

[regets ama]

Originally Posted by Finless

The 550 and the 500/600 are all SO much the same you should not need a specific 550 video. Watch those 500/600 vids and then ask specific questions in the Align forums.

I would have loved to do a 550 video but Align never asked me so I don't even own one nor had the chance or desire. I honestly have not been interested in buying one myself either. It seems now they are getting Jeff Fassbinder to do "professional" videos for you all on Align products so it appears I wont be asked again. If I buy an Align product myself, trust that I will do videos for you guys Thats a promise I always will keep!

Bob

I dont know how you keep up with it all, and fly too, but thanks in advance.

I converted my 500 to the align g3 flybarless system and the new dfc head (no levers now). After going through all the videos, directions, and the swash tends to act appropriately to commands and tilts opposite per the directions, slow and steady coming back to level. when I get in the air it seems the heli wants to continue to roll with an aileron input and not taking a firm position. The only choice I have is to command it back to neutral upright.

I am just wondering if you have any suggestions (all align servos, zeroed at 50-50 when completing the set up limits and confirming correct tilts). Of course it flew vey well before I converted it over.

[PHeMoX]

Originally Posted by Finless

kookmaker there is a MYTH and I am going to bust it right now!

Most radios today that are SMART will skew when you use subtrim and center within those new points.
However this is NOT true when you use stick trim!
This entire "don't use subtrim" thing is a FREAKIN myth.... TRUST ME!
I personally have measured servo throw and ATV (or EPA) when using subtrim up to 100 steps and it does NOT effect ATV (or EPA's) at all. There is nothing wrong with using subtrim to 90 your servos even on a CCPM system! Anyone thats says that is not true is OLD SCHOOL as this is how older radios worked!!!! Newer radios DON'T work that way even when swash is set to CCPM 120 or 140!

So you know I have had PRO's tell me that my videos telling people to use subtrim on a CCPM heli was not right! THEN I showed them USING THEIR radio that no matter how much you dialed in subtrim, it still did not effect the ends of throw. They stammered then HAWed and said "well if you put your ATVs at 150 for max resolution then it does"..... WHO DOES THAT? Even they didn't do that! WTF?

Anyway I cant speak for all radios but for sure I know that sub-trimming on the following radios DOES NOT effect ATV or cause interactions.
Futaba 9C
Futaba 7C
JR 9303 or the new X9303
DX7
Futaba 14mz
Futaba 9Z

So anyone telling someone to NOT use subtrims on the above radios is FULL OF IT... Sorry that is the facts jack.... If someone tells you that crap,,,,,, it is MYTH and ask them to prove it to you! A protractor and calipers will revealed the TRUTH.
When they loose the bet please send me 1% of the winnings

Bob

I'm not disagreeing with the above statement, but I think the problem at hand is different.

At my local club I was shown the effect of using excessive subtrims. Motor unplugged, switched to idle up and shown the swash move up and down irregularly, jerky across the entire swash range.

It didn't do anything to the end travel of individual servos as you've confirmed (that's what's EPA/ATV is for anyway), but it will influence swash plate movement (speed /accuracy) when all servos are working together across the entire swash range.

In worst case scenarios this can cause jerking/jumpy movement and inaccuracy in control.

If you want an as smooth, accurate and level as possible travel throughout the entire swash range, you'll want to keep trimming to a minimum and fix the issues mechanically as much as possible. In fact, if the mechanical setup was done properly to begin with, you're not that likely to ever need much or any trims, so you'll be good right from the start.

Would you really ever recommend using stick trims to counter an aileron drift because of a slightly bad mechanical setup over adjusting the linkages to get rid of the aileron drift / tip-over tendency the mechanical way to a newbie? In the end you'll get a far better mechanical setup if using the latter.

I'd say the keyword here is 'excessive' trimming. (sub-)trims are meant to correct physical imperfections to get things perfect, they are not meant to replace basic mechanical adjustments when they are still perfectly possible to do.

[PHeMoX]

Originally Posted by regets ama

when I get in the air it seems the heli wants to continue to roll with an aileron input and not taking a firm position. The only choice I have is to command it back to neutral upright.

I am just wondering if you have any suggestions (all align servos, zeroed at 50-50 when completing the set up limits and confirming correct tilts). Of course it flew vey well before I converted it over.

Did you try to compensate the roll tendency by mechanical adjustments of the aileron related linkages?

Did you try to lower/raise the gain for the ailerons?