3G BIBLE( Calling EVERYONE!,with 3g tips)

[jondabear]

bump! to get Leon Luke to post some setup and tips....please. Thanx

[jondabear]

BIG thanks to Leon Luke and his sensor mod!!!!!!!!

It has its own thread and I believe it best if left that way.
If ya havent done it or dont know about it, read the thread. Night and day difference for me at least.

PEACE!

[Felt]

So I guess this thread went tango uniform with the new mod.

[jondabear]

Game changer for sure!

[jondabear]

Tip for the day...DO THE MOD. Watch the video. PEACE!

[col]

Im suprised no one has mentioned a thing about setting the actual unit up lol, are you setting MAX cyclic too 12 degrees and than dropping it back to 9 or 10 via TX swash mix, or how are you guys doing it? ive set my MAX cyclic pitch to 9 and flown it at 9, i have read some set it up at 12 and than use dual rates to drop it back so the 3g has some headroom to play with... I had my 550 and 700e set at its MAX cyclic and collective or 9 degrees cyclic and 12 collective and flew it that way, and they fly awesome so im trying to get my head around why some say to set it higher and drop it back, if thats the case why do mine fly so well? Cheers for any input guys!

PS i realise there is a good thread on archeli but i cant access that site anymore on any pc or even iphone.. weird.
Col.


I have also tried many searches and as always can never get proper hits, even on threads that i know their titles i have searched with the title and still get nothing.

[jondabear]

My method is to level swash, then I set for 14 degrees pitch and 14 degrees cyclic. I MAX the limits so I have "headroom" to play with once I fly. I then fly and dial back untill it doesant bog too bad. I haven't actuallly relied on a ptich gauge for a few years now. I find that I would get too anal about that stuff and was missing out on flight time.
Now I have leaqrned to FEEL and KNOW my helis. And I adjuast my swash mixes till my birds feel right. Just MY prference. Not adviising or recommending this unless ya got. A LOT o flight time under your belt. PEACE!.

[Philluoma]

Originally Posted by Corrari

I havnt got much of an input other than I noticed a big difference when I dissabled my gov in the align esc. especialy in the tail.

Any more info on the tail not holding in gov mode? Is it a headspeed issue? I'm running a Rex 500 ESP 3G, stock, in gov mode, edge 423 FBL blades, ds650 tail servo... Fighting tail wag... Any more first hand knowledge of why the gov mode can't hold the tail?!

[HiroboFreak]

Disable governor mode.
The Align ESC gov mode is rubbish.
There's been many reports of tail issues with gov mode enabled which were resolved by running flat "curves" & disabling gov mode.

[Corrari]

I used to think that and disabled my gov. But have since re activated it with no probs at all. My tail is solid.

[npomeroy]

If it has attached, you will find an Excel spreadsheet I use to record my settings. It also has an area for the Tx settings (DX6i for me). It makes a lot of sense when you keep changing things and don't know what you had before. It's best to print it out and fill in by hand: then you can see new and old setting side by side.

Nelson P

[jondabear]

That freakin doc is AWSOME. Always wanted something like that but was always too lazy to do it. Thanx man !

[jondabear]

Quick update. BUILT a 550e in about 8hrs and maidened her before taking her out to field.

Im using a single piece of 4010 with the sensor directly under the main shaft . Ill update with my setup as I get her dialed in. (bit of ail wobble in hard manouvers).

Other than tha......this thing is a ROCKET!. easilly gna be my most flown bird. .Peace!

[jondabear]

TTT. Still lots of good info that STANDS within this thread. Dont want it getting lost in the background. PEACE.

[Stickey]

An easy way for non-electrical types to get electricity and power flow is with water analogies. It's easy to visualize water, not so much electrons. (trying to add to the usefulness of the thread - I've got an electrical background, though it is just a 3G thread).

Voltage is like water pressure. The higher the voltage, the more insulation you need to keep the electrons on the wire and to prevent a shorting situation. This is similar to a thicker pipe or hose that can take higher than typical water pressure. Higher PSI or voltage is a good thing, as it allows you to work more efficiently than at lower voltage or PSI. Also note that voltage doesn't itself indicate current or power. Voltage without current is useless for getting rotor blades to turn.

Hobby voltages are usually up to ~50V. This is pretty low for electricity. For reference, the insulation on a lamp cord or typically electrical tape will *probably* be good for 600V.

Current is like water flow. If you want more current flow, you need more wire. If you want more water flow, you need a bigger hose. Pretty simple here. Current with at zero voltage is useless for making rotor blades turn..

If you try to cram too much current down a wire that's too small, it'll heat up and possibly cause voltage drop problems (brown outs). Same as with pushing too much water down a pipe, it just don't work properly. It may work, but it's usually just smarter to use larger wires or hoses - primarily because it's cheap go up a wire size.

Power is voltage * current. Watts = Volts * Amps. This is pretty simple. For 1,000 watts you can get it with 1000 amps @ 1V or with 1000 V at 1 Amp. Or anywhere in between.

For water, this is is where the analogy falls apart from daily terms. Just know that you need a combination of water flow and water pressure to get water out the end of a hose. You can't do it with just one (read as: anything x zero = zero).

The trick is that volts are easy to accommodate electrically - you just add insulation. Since our wires are already well insulated to handle our "HV" set-ups (read as up to 50V), we can push up the voltage easily. The weak points in our system are the ESCs and BECs. Those electronics have to be designed to handle the higher voltage. The easy way to do this is you use more MOSFETs in series to let each one handle less voltage.

Adding more current is more difficult for models as you start to impact the size of the wires (cheap to upgrade), the C rating of the batteries (expensive sometimes) and the current capacity of the ESCs (expensive to go up in amps or volts for escs).

Connectors are also something to consider - Deans and XT60s can handle up to 50-60 amps continuous. Then you have to jump up to large bullets. They can handle the volts without any trouble (hobby range of volts).

To get into power loss you get into another layer of the electrical onion. This one really doesn't have a good water analogy to follow either. Just know that as your current goes up, your amount of power loss due to resistance of batteries, wires, ECSs, motors, etc are all SQUARED. This is lost to heat. This is why a 6s or 12s machine will be more efficient than the 3s or 6s counterpart.

We may accept it for many machines (450 sizes), but this is really the root cause of why the 600 sized helis aren't 6s. Too many amps, not enough volts. Current batteries may keep up, but you're still at 40c+. Double the voltage to 12s and your current needs drop in half. So you can use 20c batteries - which are cheaper than the 40c counterparts.

(I got carried away toward the middle/end, sorry).

Originally Posted by jondabear

Im gna do the short LAYmans version for this post.

Voltage is ENERGY. Particularly the level or amount of energy within a circuit(electrical system) or field. Thats pretty confusing even to me after 21 years. Just know that it is a measurement of energy. SIMPLE huh?

Ampereage( CURRENT ) is a term for the unit of measure associated witrh how much "OOOMPH!" a source of energy can let loose. There is Nominal and peak readings.
Nominal is what you can " DRAW" (use from) from the power source, And PEAK is what can be drawn from (EXTREME circumstance)IE. full power collective dump with full cyclic deflection ,This will draw the MOST amperage from the "power system" at any one time.

[jondabear]

MUCH nicer analogies and explanation. This will be a timeless explanation. Thanx bud! PEACE!

[jondabear]

TTT for all the new guys. Peace!

[jondabear]

Alot of good info for the NOOBS..........TTT.