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700 Class Electric Helicopters 700 Class Electric Helicopters manufactured by Align, Tarot, SYMA, Airhog, Chaos, HK and similar.


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Old 01-03-2014, 02:14 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxx024 View Post

FBL controller - yet to be determined based upon how this 3gx I just got works on my 600

Servos - to be determined, not gonna go cheap though
Might I recommend:

http://www.robirdusa.com/Robird-Gyros/G31-Gyro

http://www.audacitymodels.com/Produc...V/Default.aspx

http://www.audacitymodels.com/Produc...V/Default.aspx

Those servos btw are not relabels. Audacity is having them manufactured specificly for them (electronics in taiwan assembly in the USA) and basically selling them at the wholesale price.

If they had a belt version I might actually consider it but I will not buy another TT driven helicopter again. The TT tail on my 550 was a nightmare and I eventually just said "to hell with this" and converted it to belt after which it was perfect.
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Old 01-03-2014, 08:44 PM   #42 (permalink)
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I am happy with my Robird so far, set up was 1000 times easier than the 3gx (in my opinion). Especially if you don't mind using a computer.

I just received a set of Promodeler servos today. I plan to put them in my Assault, if it ever ships... I got the coreless models, didn't feel like spending the extra for brushless. I am very impressed. No slop in the gear train, quiet, and smooth.
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Old 01-03-2014, 10:21 PM   #43 (permalink)
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got the 3gx all set up today in the 600. Going to pull it and the servos over to the Assault tomorrow and should be able to maiden it tomorrow or sunday.
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Old 01-04-2014, 02:28 AM   #44 (permalink)
 

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There is new version of Tarot ZYX with faster processor and improved firmware. I heard it is awesome. I think 700 can fly FBL without gyro. I personally like old ZYX for bigger helis. Ease of use with small programmer is main selling point for me. My BeastX is gathering dust.
I assume V Bar clones are good performers but ethically questionable. Mikado killed FuBar but did not touch another brand... This is funny.
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Old 01-04-2014, 01:47 PM   #45 (permalink)
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I used to fly those Tarot units. Problem is a lot of them won't boot up anymore.
5/6 of my units worked out of the box, and worked okay for about a year. I'm now down to 3 working units.
The good:
In terms of flight characteristics it has nice pirouette optimization, the tail holds if you're just flying mellow. You can crank the cyclic response higher than what you can on a beastx, and this gyro still works all the way down to 3.2v.
The bad:
As soon as you start doing some aileron tick tocks you'll notice it has a tendency to pitch forward. It gets confused when you're doing smack 3d, so cyclic + tail response can be all over the place.

TBH I've had good luck with the 3d-H, TGZ3800, and Bigaole gyros. They're under 100 bucks. They run a bastardized BeastX software that's almost as good as a BeastX v1/v3 and head and shoulders over ZYX, 3G, and 3GX.
The 3d-H gyro has it's dial 2 backward, the TGZ3800 has pots 1 and 3 switched.

I've seen a gentleman fly his Logo 700 with V-bar. I might even say that's the most stable FBL unit I've seen. Really stable FBL unit, really good, just not $319 good. I wouldn't touch a V-bar clone gyro because I refuse to advertise any V-bar product. (I didn't like how Mikado threatened HF and RCG. Not cool IMO)

Brain/iKon, outstanding product, but it should be in the $180 range imo. They're really paying more like 18$ for the materials, labor and developement/licencing put into each unit.
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:11 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Quote:
just not $319 good
No, with Pro it's $349 good. And "good" doesn't begin to do it justice. Without question the best heli money I ever spent. Hands down. Changed the whole ballgame.
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:34 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sharicasmi View Post
I've seen a gentleman fly his Logo 700 with V-bar. I might even say that's the most stable FBL unit I've seen. Really stable FBL unit, really good, just not $319 good. I wouldn't touch a V-bar clone gyro because I refuse to advertise any V-bar product. (I didn't like how Mikado threatened HF and RCG. Not cool IMO).
Great thing about forums is everyone gets to give their opinion.
I have Vbar's on my 700 and 550 and think they are worth every cent.
Set them up once and my heli's have always flown fantastic with them.
It sure sucks when Vbar clone makers cant make their own programing for their gyro's and want to use the ones Mikado spend tens of thousands of dollars designing and testing.
I bet if the clone company's had to design and test their own they wouldn't be so cheap!
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:56 AM   #48 (permalink)
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Anywayz I got the YEP 120a HV installed tonight and I got everything pulled from the 600. Tomorrow I will finish mounting everything on the Assault and hopefully get a flight on it.
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Old 01-05-2014, 06:17 AM   #49 (permalink)
 

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Anywayz I got the YEP 120a HV installed tonight and I got everything pulled from the 600. Tomorrow I will finish mounting everything on the Assault and hopefully get a flight on it.
I also use YEP 120HV. Here is my maiden flight:
https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...0&postcount=33
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:51 AM   #50 (permalink)
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I see you have the GARTT.....what is your servo to swash length? I set mine to 28mm showing between the rod ends and I'm getting 5.8 degrees of positive pitch at mid stick with the servo arms at 90. Just have to get that sorted and get the tail set up and I'll be ready to go. However it is -2 with a wind chill of -25 right now so I don't think the maiden will happen today
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Old 01-05-2014, 11:54 AM   #51 (permalink)
 

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I see you have the GARTT.....what is your servo to swash length?
25.5mm link between ball links.

I did not change original lenght. I did not even check if they have the same lenght...
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:30 PM   #52 (permalink)
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I got it down to 25mm between and it still has +.3 at mid stick....I guess that is as close as I can get it without going to shorter length rods. I get 1 degree difference from full positive to full negative...negative being the lesser. I guess that makes sense since I can not get the swash low enough. Strange that it's only .3 off at mid stick but a whole degree difference at full either way.
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Old 01-05-2014, 12:33 PM   #53 (permalink)
 

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It is FBL not pharmacy : )

Most important is to check for binding. Otherwise you can burn servo.
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:01 PM   #54 (permalink)
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For sure there is no binding. Well I went and spooled it up a bit outside to check rotation direction and make sure the tail was set right. HOLY SHIT! I am going to LOVE this thing. My normal pitch curve is about 40-45- and 50 at mid, I left it linear so it was planted to the ground if it decided to get squirrley. The BVI with negative pitch and 700mm blades is so awesome I think I almost came lmao. Something in the tail seemed a bit off. Didn't feel like it was adjusting correctly. I need to work on that and double and triple check everything else and I will be set to get a maiden flight in sometime in the next few days.
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:11 PM   #55 (permalink)
 

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Originally Posted by maxx024 View Post
For sure there is no binding. Well I went and spooled it up a bit outside to check rotation direction and make sure the tail was set right. HOLY SHIT! I am going to LOVE this thing. My normal pitch curve is about 40-45- and 50 at mid, I left it linear so it was planted to the ground if it decided to get squirrley. The BVI with negative pitch and 700mm blades is so awesome I think I almost came lmao. Something in the tail seemed a bit off. Didn't feel like it was adjusting correctly. I need to work on that and double and triple check everything else and I will be set to get a maiden flight in sometime in the next few days.
What is BVI and lmao?

Do not tighten tail slider screws to tight. I put a lot of thread lock there. If tightened to strong they create to much friction.
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Old 01-05-2014, 06:00 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Blade vortex interaction and laughing my ass off. . What tail slider screws? Are you talking about on the links to the arms?
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Old 01-05-2014, 06:07 PM   #57 (permalink)
 

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What tail slider screws? Are you talking about on the links to the arms?
All of them. All screws in Metal Tail Pitch Assembly.

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Old 01-05-2014, 09:12 PM   #58 (permalink)
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yeah those are all good. I need to hook the 3gx back up to the pc and look at the rudder delay settings...I may have messed them up during set up.
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Old 01-06-2014, 09:46 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Got the delay down to 0 and went and tried it again. It doesn't feel like I have enough right rudder. The slider seems like it is going all the way but I can't turn right with it on the ground but I can turn left. I don't want to lift off until it feels right....any ideas? I guess if I'm getting full right rudder it seems like there couldn't be any problem. Maybe I am just freaking out before it spools up enough for it to counteract the main blade torque. I'll wait a few days untill there isn't a -25 wind chill.
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Old 01-06-2014, 10:48 AM   #60 (permalink)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxx024 View Post
Got the delay down to 0 and went and tried it again. It doesn't feel like I have enough right rudder. The slider seems like it is going all the way but I can't turn right with it on the ground but I can turn left. I don't want to lift off until it feels right....any ideas? I guess if I'm getting full right rudder it seems like there couldn't be any problem. Maybe I am just freaking out before it spools up enough for it to counteract the main blade torque. I'll wait a few days untill there isn't a -25 wind chill.
Is it your first bigger heli? If yes, find experienced pilot to check your build before flying it.

Is mechanical setup correct?

If you try it on the ground RPM can be to low for tail rotor to work correctly.

Be safe... This is really powerful, dangerous heli. It is not good idea to learn basics on such machine. I do not want to discourage you. I just care.
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