Blade mCP X BL Tips & Tricks - post em here!

[Alexatu]

Originally Posted by stevebaker

Here are my DIY boom supports. Thanks to toys2cars2toys for posting this mod originally.

As I only use a 2mm carbon boom and the stock frame, I have quite a bit of lateral flex, so I decided to give this a go;



I had some spare 1mm carbon rod for the supports.
I used some thermoplastic to quickly shape a support holder for the boom.
I found some spare boom support attachments that I epoxied to my rods.
The boom supports simply slide over the canopy posts as can be seen

Hovering inside, the tail stops now have a little less bounce. I'll have to see how it performs differently when the winds drop and I can get out on the field...

Letting those wires outside the boom and spiraled too is both dangerous and ugly look. Haven't you heard all the stories with fried boards because of the tail wires shortcircuit in crashes that damage the subtle insulation coating. Spiraling the wires along the boom makes them a direct subject of blade strike in case of a crash. If you want to leave them outside just run them straight along the left side of the boom. The more elegant and protective way is to just put heatshrink tubing along the boom with the wires inside, again avoiding the right side of the boom. I had a crash once where the blades cut the heatshrink and merely missed the wires.

[ludofreak]

Originally Posted by Alexatu

Letting those wires outside the boom and spiraled too is both dangerous and ugly look. Haven't you heard all the stories with fried boards because of the tail wires shortcircuit in crashes that damage the subtle insulation coating. Spiraling the wires along the boom makes them a direct subject of blade strike case of a crash. If you want to leave them outside just run them straight along the left side of the boom. The more elegant and protective way is to just put heatshrink tubing along the boom with the wires inside, again avoiding the right side of the boom. I had a crash once where the blades cut the heatshrink and merely missed the wires.

Envoyé depuis mon GT-S5830 avec Tapatalk

[stevebaker]

Good tips Alexatu

I personally fibreglass tape the wires to the left of the boom under where the blade can strike - just didn't get round to doing it before that photo was taken.

I've now removed the boom supports as they didn't actually seem to make any difference when I got round to flight testing at the field.

[gearwarrior]

Tape your canopy before breakage. Make sure to tape around the edges. Also, tape as close as you can to the mounting holes. In the cold, even changing batteries will crack and shatter the canopy. Oh yeah, heh, and you can easily break the Lgear during batt changes.

Another good one, and I learnt this on my mCPX v2. Take the head off of the main shaft. CA it to the main shaft. It makes the shaft much tougher. You'd rather a bent feathering spindle as opposed to cracked shaft. Do not replace the screw. Also, you can prevent the gear side from collapsing by taking a bowl of baking soda, jamming it into the whole just at the end, and then putting a drop of CA on it. The CA will immediately soak into the Baking Soda and harden.

[avet4life]

I like this one the most, I could now use my hallow main shaft again.

""Also, you can prevent the gear side from collapsing by taking a bowl of baking soda, jamming it into the whole just at the end, and then putting a drop of CA on it. The CA will immediately soak into the Baking Soda and harden.""

Originally Posted by gearwarrior

Tape your canopy before breakage. Make sure to tape around the edges. Also, tape as close as you can to the mounting holes. In the cold, even changing batteries will crack and shatter the canopy. Oh yeah, heh, and you can easily break the Lgear during batt changes.

Another good one, and I learnt this on my mCPX v2. Take the head off of the main shaft. CA it to the main shaft. It makes the shaft much tougher. You'd rather a bent feathering spindle as opposed to cracked shaft. Do not replace the screw. Also, you can prevent the gear side from collapsing by taking a bowl of baking soda, jamming it into the whole just at the end, and then putting a drop of CA on it. The CA will immediately soak into the Baking Soda and harden.

[Attila_iii]

Originally Posted by Heli biggie

Thanks , i recieved my new mcpx bl today , and the first flight was ggreat except some tail wag , any thoughts?

I'm fairly new to flying, and even newer to this forum. So first off hello. Looks like this post is about a year old now, but this is what I have found on the tail wag on the MCPX BL.
This only happens on my bird, and my friends, when flying in normal mode, and dropping the throttle. If you have both a throttle curve, and a pitch curve working here, the torque from the main shaft is reduced by the lower head speed, AND blade pitch getting closer to zero at the same time. The PID loop that is used to speed up and slow down the the tail motor seems to run too hot and can't keep up. Kick the throttle up a little, and it will stop the wagging. I have found from my simulator time, that I prefer doing all of my flying in stunt mode, even though I'm only starting to do some basic 3D flying. So my head speed is at 100% all of the time. Now the gyro just has to keep up with a change in pitch, not reduced torque due to head speed. No tail wag on my bird when I fly this way, unless it's windy, and even then it doesn't keep wagging. The nice thing is this does have a soft start on it, so for take off, I just flip the stunt mode switch, move the throttle stick to just below half, and then take it off of hold. Once the head get up to full speed, I pop it up into the air and off I go.

I hope this helps someone.

[jaxxx]

any tips on keeping the stock tail boom steady from rotating or sliding out?

[branflake]

hot glue.

[CrashyCrashy]

Originally Posted by jaxxx

any tips on keeping the stock tail boom steady from rotating or sliding out?

Silicone RTV or clear scotch tape.

CrashyCrashy

[Epoweredrc]

So did you guys figure out adding heat sinks to the fets on back and front of the main board help? Anyone find them for less then $8 shipping? that one site super cheap but shipping stunk.
or did the ones someone got from http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/misimi.html fit w/o being to big or was able to be cut down some? I seen on there site you must order $3.99 not sure what shipping is

[whodothevoodoo]

If I could find the ones I ordered last year I would send you some...but I have no idea where I put them and they are small. I'll have a look tonight when I get home.

See link https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...9&postcount=56

[Epoweredrc]

Originally Posted by whodothevoodoo

If I could find the ones I ordered last year I would send you some...but I have no idea where I put them and they are small. I'll have a look tonight when I get home.

See link https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...9&postcount=56

Maybe its my computer but all I see is a big ! no pic.
So I guess they did help keep things cool for flying back to back.

[lenix38]

Hey guys heres a tip for those of you running the Lynx or Xtreme carbon fiber tail fins. I just use a small ziptie and wrap the tie around the opening of the tail fin as seen below. I havent lost a tail fin anymore since I did this. I also cut the ziptie a lil longer and i use it as a method to pick up any small vibrations:

[Graiskye]

@Alexatu
Firstly please do not take this the wrong way, we all are learning in this hobby, and I am simply tryng to point out the error you made in your supports
Now as per your photo of the boom supports....
The boom supportsd didnt do anything becasue of the way you had them 'supporting' the boom.
The idea behind boom supports is to create two rigid triangles, the bigger the better. Look at the supports on other helis.
What you have done is basically create three booms that stick straight out the back. You were gaining no strength, essentially or comparitively the way they were arranged, but gaining a fair bit of weight. Weight for no good reason on electric 'anything that flies' is a bad idea.
If you were too simply move the supports down to the position that 99% of the rest of the helicopters in the world have them you would have gained the benifit of a rock solid boom. If you simply goop the ends up with RTV or some hot glue, you could actually just zip tie them, with wee little zip ties, straight to the undercarriage.The goop keeps the carbon rods from simply slipping out of the zip tie lash, with goop or shoegoo, silicone, just too rough up the end of the 'strut', and they will stay great.
Not the prettiest but functional at this scale.
Good luck all, and good flying.

[Alexatu]

I think you are quoting the wrong person. The image in my previous post was a quote, not my model, and I was also talking about some of the issues there. And yes, I you are right about the "boom triangle of forces".

[stevebaker]

@alexatu
I don't think your boom supports will work very well either

My final solution was to pick up a Trex 150 instead!

[Ronnie Mund]

I tend to break the canopy posts on my stock frame after several crashes. I've learned to reinforce the canopy posts by coating them with 5 min. epoxy on the inner portion of the posts prior to installing the new frame. This really beefs them up and the frames last a lot longer.

Also, invest in some Airtime skids!

[LEORITY]

Hey fellas! Does anyone knows if Dylan, from Astroid Designs is on Holidays or something? I've been trying contact by email but no answer at all over almost a month...
Anyone?

[LEORITY]

Hey Guys,



Received the final items yesterday, but I am in doubt on how to connect both HK-10 ESC with each other.

I am planning to stick the tail ESC on the main board and then the main ESC to the tail ESC.

The attached picture is what I've done so far.

Then I used my voltmeter to check there were no wires or solder shorting, and all went well, then I powered it with a turnigy nano 300mah. Then I started hearing a sound like "tic-tic-tic-tic..." non-stop.
I removed the battery and checked again for shorts. My surprise was that touching the red and black wires, with the voltmeter tips, it started beeping, as those wires were shorted. Then I desoldered them and soldered again to perform the test. But no sound this time...

So I don't know if I should go ahead and connect them to the main board, as I am afraid it might damage the 3-in-1 board.


Has anyone experienced this?



Thanks for any input.


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[LEORITY]

Quick video of what is happening...
https://vimeo.com/113148390


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