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HBFP V1/V2 E-Sky Honey Bee V1 & V2 Fixed Pitch


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Old 09-28-2008, 02:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 4in1 repair

So I burned the esc in the 4in1. I was flying some fast circuits in some hefty wind and had to be aggressive with the power. Also, I trimmed the backs on the main blades to reduce lift and flaring when the heli gets caught by a wind gust. I have the eXtreme motor and was warned this might happen. I flew through several packs and started to notice that the power of the heli was going down. It would not throttle up as fast as before. I ended up doing a noise dive because I could not increase the lift once I pitched forward. Unfortunately, I was a bit late on cutting down the throttle and had it mid-stick for maybe 2 or 3 seconds. When I got the heli I noticed that it was smoking.

I checked the 4in1 at home and it appears to work except for the main motor. The servos are fine, the tail rotor spins in proportion to throttle increase, and the gyro initializes. When I took the 4in1 apart, I saw that the board which connects to the receiver had a few burned out chips. So I wonder what is the best course of action. I don't suppose I can just get a replacement ESC board. I suppose I can try to make it brushless, as that requires some 4in1 disection ( the ESC addon to make the 4in1 brushless won't work, as the 4in1 is damaged). Just curious on people's opinions.
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Old 10-02-2008, 01:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Depending how good you are with soldering, you can probably try to replace the chips that failed (I did it successfully myself). It will most likely be the mosfets that died and maybe the diodes.

The PCB has to be undammaged however.

You can order replacement parts from Digikey. Here's a link to a post I did which lists the part numbers needed:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=9533
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Old 10-06-2008, 12:46 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The two mosfets are clearly burned out, but I am not sure if the PCB is fixable or not. Hopefully, it can be discerned from the picture.
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Old 10-06-2008, 12:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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It's hard to tell. You can try to desolder the mosfets and clean-up the board. Then you'll see if the PCB traces are intact.
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Old 11-08-2008, 10:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by RomanC View Post
The two mosfets are clearly burned out, but I am not sure if the PCB is fixable or not. Hopefully, it can be discerned from the picture.
how strange ive had exactley the same problem only difference is that one chip had come off completley and the other was only attached with 4 pins (one side) im running the same extreme motors + heatsink and it did seem to get a little one the 'hot' side. maybe the esky controller should only really be run with the standard motor/blade combo. the only other way i can think of upping the power reliably would be by using a seperate motor esc gyro etc which can be done cheaply!?
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Old 11-12-2008, 03:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I think people indicate that the Slomax motor works great for them. I still need to fix mine. I thought about converting it to CP2 as it is only $88 at raidentech.com and the ESKY 4in1 is around $45 at most heli sites...
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Old 11-16-2008, 09:10 PM   #7 (permalink)
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It's true that the Slo-Max works for most but for me it killed my 4in1 a few times. I finally realized that my Slo-Max was pulling way too many amps and I fixed it by running it in water for 30-45 minutes. Breaking-in the Slo-Max really improved things a lot and increased my flight times.
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Old 11-22-2008, 01:59 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Kadath View Post
It's true that the Slo-Max works for most but for me it killed my 4in1 a few times. I finally realized that my Slo-Max was pulling way too many amps and I fixed it by running it in water for 30-45 minutes. Breaking-in the Slo-Max really improved things a lot and increased my flight times.
I have seen that people have added 7.5mAmp fuses between the motor and the 4in1 to avoid ESC damage. Each burn out is $50 as you can't just get the ESC.
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Old 11-22-2008, 05:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I have seen that people have added 7.5mAmp fuses between the motor and the 4in1 to avoid ESC damage. Each burn out is $50 as you can't just get the ESC.
Yes, the problem is that I only had 7A and 10A fuses and the 7A fuse kept blowing (I didn't know why at the time). So I replaced it with the 10A fuse. Now that I know that my Slo-Max was pulling about 8A to hover, no wonder the 7A fuse kept blowing
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Old 11-23-2008, 06:51 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Kadath View Post
Yes, the problem is that I only had 7A and 10A fuses and the 7A fuse kept blowing (I didn't know why at the time). So I replaced it with the 10A fuse. Now that I know that my Slo-Max was pulling about 8A to hover, no wonder the 7A fuse kept blowing
So once you started using the 10A fuse did you stop blowing out the ESC?
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Old 11-28-2008, 11:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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So once you started using the 10A fuse did you stop blowing out the ESC?
Well, with 7A I was blowing the fuse. With 10A fuses, I blew the ESC a few times
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Old 12-01-2008, 07:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Well, with 7A I was blowing the fuse. With 10A fuses, I blew the ESC a few times
Hmm, it might be cheaper to then make a BL conversion with a powerzone board then to continue burning out ESCs...
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Old 01-09-2009, 09:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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So I managed to replace the mosfet for the tail that burned out on a CP2 4in1. Overall, it is straightforward. The hardest part was removing the mosftet from the PCB. Also, this datasheet http://www.irf.com/product-info/dat.../irf7842pbf.pdf helps out as far as which pins can be shorted together. (thanks Kadath)
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