Nano WILD horrible sound

[hookedonflying]

I have a problem...sort of. My nano WILD seems to be making an ugly grinding sound especially when powering down. If you turn it by hand, it kind of "catches" in places. It seems to fly fine, but occasionally it doesn't turn unless you give it a little help at first. I don't have very many flights on it (maybe 25), so this is very strange. It's an Astroid motor, too. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Dylan? Originally I thought maybe it was bearings going bad, but the bearings seem fine. Maybe the motor bearings? See video.

Nanno CPX wild (0 min 12 sec)

[daveapplemotors]

Bent motor shaft? main gear stripped in one place? main shaft?

[hookedonflying]

Everything other than the motor is smooth. Maybe you're right about the bent motor shaft. How in the world would that happen and how do you even check that?

[daveapplemotors]

I bent a few motor shafts. In a frontal crash the motor levers forward and the pinion goes back. The stock shaft is 1mm down to the motor. There is a 1mm length of shaft where they bend.

I use HP03t V2 shafts because they have 1.5mm diameter all the way out to the pinion. I have not bent one of these. I believe: https://tmkarc1hobby.com/hp03t-v2-shaft.html

BTW
Also Marc has $1 mainshafts. I order 10 at a time instead of one expensive one.

[daveapplemotors]

Oh, to check just watch the pinion while you rotate the head.

[hookedonflying]

Thanks. I'll check that. You would think it would fly horribly with a bent motor shaft, but it doesn't. Strange.

It looks like that shaft from the link has a thinner end. Did you link the correct one? I guess you would need to have a different pinion with a 1.5mm shaft.

[hookedonflying]

Well, after closer examination, it looks like the main gear was the culprit. I couldn't tell by looking at it, but on slow rotation I got to a point where it would skip gears. I'd love to get a tighter mesh, but it doesn't look like there's much I can do about that. Seems like the mesh is way too loose. I'd remove the motor and install it again, but I glued it in a bit too well I think. I'm afraid I'd ruin the frame.

[Bladecpnitro]

The main gear is easily trashed out after going brushless and they are rather expensive for such a tiny part. I wish you got 10 or 20 for 2.99 instead of one.

[hookedonflying]

Originally Posted by Bladecpnitro

The main gear is easily trashed out after going brushless and they are rather expensive for such a tiny part. I wish you got 10 or 20 for 2.99 instead of one.

Hmm, I haven't really killed them with my brushless. This is the first one.

[Bladecpnitro]

Originally Posted by hookedonflying

Hmm, I haven't really killed them with my brushless. This is the first one.

Main gears fail more frequently with the 16,600KV brushless moreso than the 13,000KV.

The vid definitely sounds like a shot main gear, that will rob a lot of power as well if thats what it is.

[hookedonflying]

Originally Posted by Bladecpnitro

Main gears fail more frequently with the 16,600KV brushless moreso than the 13,000KV.

The vid definitely sounds like a shot main gear, that will rob a lot of power as well if thats what it is.

Yes, I noted that it was the main gear. That gear mesh is horrible. I guess you can't make it mesh better with the stock frame, can you? It just isn't tight enough.

[Bladecpnitro]

If you can get the back half of the motor mount built up a little bit where it will cause the motor to tilt ever so slightly. The shaft will lean back just a tiny little bit and tighten up the mesh.

Just a thin layer of glue there should do.

[hookedonflying]

Hmmm, maybe I'll try that when something breaks. Right now its glued in a bit too well I think. I didn't mean to do that, but it just won't budge when I push on it.

[Bladecpnitro]

Better to have it glued in good than not.

I had the 13,000KV brushless motor first and it came loose in flight once. That ended up damaging a motor wire and eventually frying my ESC.

That caused me more headaches than I've ever seen in my RC flying.
Well the 4 back to back 450 brownout crashes after fresh rebuilds comes a close 2nd. LOL! (Slow dying ailron servo was the culprit)

It didn't break the wire clean off, it broke it just enough to kill performance and start cutting off on me. I like to never have found the problem. It just so happened that after that crash I did the battery lead strait to ESC solder mod and never noticed that the motor had come loose and damaged a wire at the time. So when I took it back out to fly, that's when I realized the pinion wasn't touching the main gear.

I took it back in and glued and remounted the motor but it only ran very weakly for a short minute and never returned to its normal powerful self again, all because it came unglued.

I resoldered every joint and resoldered again and again and it never ran until I got a new motor and a new ESC.

I finally found the problem while wiggling the wire to the motor trying to get the motor to run. I heard one spark of real life come out of it and it died and took the ESC with it.

When I got a new motor I went with the 16,600KV and
a new ESC.

If a motor wire is fractured or has a bad connection, a tell tell sign is that the motor will try to spin forwards and backwards as if it were confused.

I have my Nano going again after letting it set over a year. I though it needed a tail motor but it only needed the last Tail FET I put in the board resoldered on one leg and the tail wire leads resoldered to the main board and the ground had come loose from the ESC. I cleaned and resoldered everything and moved my battery leads back to the stock position. I just haven't had the best luck with those bulky leads going strait to the ESC. Now I have a powerful magnifying glass so I can actually see if a FET is soldered good or not and its running great. I just don't want to crash it really.

[hookedonflying]

Originally Posted by Bladecpnitro

Better to have it glued in good than not.

I had the 13,000KV brushless motor first and it came loose in flight once. That ended up damaging a motor wire and eventually frying my ESC.

That caused me more headaches than I've ever seen in my RC flying.
Well the 4 back to back 450 brownout crashes after fresh rebuilds comes a close 2nd. LOL! (Slow dying ailron servo was the culprit)

It didn't break the wire clean off, it broke it just enough to kill performance and start cutting off on me. I like to never have found the problem. It just so happened that after that crash I did the battery lead strait to ESC solder mod and never noticed that the motor had come loose and damaged a wire at the time. So when I took it back out to fly, that's when I realized the pinion wasn't touching the main gear.

I took it back in and glued and remounted the motor but it only ran very weakly for a short minute and never returned to its normal powerful self again, all because it came unglued.

I resoldered every joint and resoldered again and again and it never ran until I got a new motor and a new ESC.

I finally found the problem while wiggling the wire to the motor trying to get the motor to run. I heard one spark of real life come out of it and it died and took the ESC with it.

When I got a new motor I went with the 16,600KV and
a new ESC.

If a motor wire is fractured or has a bad connection, a tell tell sign is that the motor will try to spin forwards and backwards as if it were confused.

I have my Nano going again after letting it set over a year. I though it needed a tail motor but it only needed the last Tail FET I put in the board resoldered on one leg and the tail wire leads resoldered to the main board and the ground had come loose from the ESC. I cleaned and resoldered everything and moved my battery leads back to the stock position. I just haven't had the best luck with those bulky leads going strait to the ESC. Now I have a powerful magnifying glass so I can actually see if a FET is soldered good or not and its running great. I just don't want to crash it really.

Holy cow, that's a nightmare. Sometimes chasing problems can be extremely frustrating. And as you know, if it isn't flying good, it will soon come down and you will be chasing MORE problems. I've had that with my 130x's, but now they're flying good, so I try not to crash them. It's kind of a viscous cycle.

[Bladecpnitro]

It is a vicious cycle. Nothing irritates me more than unnecessary crashes causing more damage, you know it might be simply trashing a brand new canopy because a link popped off and crashed me into the chain link fence but it still pisses me off.

I prefer the 450 Pro for its dependability but I missed the Nano's front porch flying in between showers simplicity kind of thing.

I can fly the 450 Pro 500+ hard 3D flights trouble free only replacing tail bearings, dual tail control arms and sliders and motor bearings.

[hookedonflying]

Originally Posted by Bladecpnitro

It is a vicious cycle. Nothing irritates me more than unnecessary crashes causing more damage, you know it might be simply trashing a brand new canopy because a link popped off and crashed me into the chain link fence but it still pisses me off.

I prefer the 450 Pro for its dependability but I missed the Nano's front porch flying in between showers simplicity kind of thing.

I can fly the 450 Pro 500+ hard 3D flights trouble free only replacing tail bearings, dual tail control arms and sliders and motor bearings.

Speaking of which, how often do you have to change out bearings like that? I've never had a crash because of bearings but I've always wondered when are they going to go? Will you notice the symptoms before it's too late? I especially wonder this about motor bearings, because you can't see them well and you can't really tell if they're going bad, right?

[Bladecpnitro]

Originally Posted by hookedonflying

Speaking of which, how often do you have to change out bearings like that? I've never had a crash because of bearings but I've always wondered when are they going to go? Will you notice the symptoms before it's too late? I especially wonder this about motor bearings, because you can't see them well and you can't really tell if they're going bad, right?

It depends on how much you oil your bearings really.

I oil hi wear bearings every flight with 70 wt synthetic oil with a needle dropper, where I've had a lot of bearing failures like the motor, tail box and main bearings. The mains come close second to those two in failures so don't get as much oiling only every 5 packs.


You might get 400 flights out of a set of bearings and you might get 50.
You learn to hear bad bearings in the motor's they start to sound harsh and ragged and get hotter. For the tail you can wobble the shaft a little and tell.

I just replaced my 450 tail bearings with much better, higher tolerance BOCA bearings and they fit the shaft so much tighter than the Avid and Align bearings. There was really no visible play in the tail shaft .
The previous bearings failed a little prematurely due to the belt being a little too tight. I got about 100 flights out of them. They were avid bearings and allowed more play in the tail shaft than I like. Play causes vibes that can effect the FBL unit.

[daveapplemotors]

My wild nano motors are "new" -- only a year or so old.

In my mcpxs I have 2 HP06 motors that are more than 3 years old. My Black Dragons are just as old.

I don't know how long they will last. I oil only very occasionally and I fly a lot.

[hookedonflying]

Wow, you two are on the opposite ends of the spectrum I think. I have some of this Liberty Oil:

It's easy enough to apply, but I do realize that too much is bad, too. I try to keep bearings lubricated just enough as to not have oil spraying all over the place. On my 130x's I oil stuff probably every 5 flights.