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Mikado Logo 800 Xxtreme Mikado Logo 800 Xxtreme Helicopters Discussion


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Old 05-20-2014, 10:01 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Xxtreme 800 ready to go, except...

The tail control rod is 5mm too long, well, 4.8mm to be exact. Do you go ahead and maiden or wait I don't know how long for the next set of parts? Tail servo would need to be setup with about 30 degree offset with full tail right at full throw of servo, ie horrendous physical expo curve at full throw. Ducking
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Old 05-20-2014, 04:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Have you got the tail servo in the right way round, arm towards nose.
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Old 05-20-2014, 06:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yes, thanks. I thought of switching the orientation of the tail servo to eat up the extra length but alas, the prescribed orientation is already the longest.
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raptorapture View Post
The tail control rod is 5mm too long, well, 4.8mm to be exact. Do you go ahead and maiden or wait I don't know how long for the next set of parts? Tail servo would need to be setup with about 30 degree offset with full tail right at full throw of servo, ie horrendous physical expo curve at full throw. Ducking
Something's wrong.

The end caps can be tight on the pushrod....I always use some 320 grit sandpaper on the pushrod ends to ensure the end caps can be seated all the way on before epoxying.

Did you thread end end links 1/2 way into the end caps? I use "jam nuts" to thread them in using a wrench.

Otherwise, the pushrod was too long.

FWIW
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EEngineer View Post
Something's wrong.

The end caps can be tight on the pushrod....I always use some 320 grit sandpaper on the pushrod ends to ensure the end caps can be seated all the way on before epoxying.

Did you thread end end links 1/2 way into the end caps? I use "jam nuts" to thread them in using a wrench.

Otherwise, the pushrod was too long.

FWIW
Thanks for those pointers. The sanding one I haven't done before. I suspect that when the rod was assembled that it suffered from the usual expansion from the epoxy refusing to stay compressed. There is a 5mm of epoxy exposed on one end. Kinda like a who dunnit. I'm really curious if the previous owner flew it like that. 5mm seems too great a distance for servo manufacturer to come into play. Or maybe the weather was so hot it boiled
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'd replace the whole assembly....I thought you had made it....

Use some masking tape so that you only sand what length you need to.

Excess epoxy will ooze out after sanding, but a lot will enter the hollow CF rod.

The guy who made it just wasn't being careful.
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Old 05-21-2014, 06:00 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EEngineer View Post
I'd replace the whole assembly....I thought you had made it....

Use some masking tape so that you only sand what length you need to.

Excess epoxy will ooze out after sanding, but a lot will enter the hollow CF rod.

The guy who made it just wasn't being careful.
Just couldn't bring myself to hit the buy button twice in one night where the shipping was greater than double the purchase price. Just ordered a Kasama mini main grip arm for my mini-T. Guess I should order two control rod sets in case I muck it up too
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I've managed to muck up several....

So I buy 2.....to account for the "muck up" factor...
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:27 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Some things not right.

You mentioned it was a previous person doing the build.

IMO I'd order up a new rod and do it again. These big heli's are expensive to scratch up . ( $1200 last year on my crash )

I suspect the end slid back on him when the glue was wet , they tent to do that when not babysat during drying.

I use the JB weld on mine now.

Put a little inside the plastic end , a little on the CF rod (after sanding lightly ) , then spin the rod as I work the JB into the connection a few times. Then I let it set up ( one side ) , the first one won't want to slide off.

Same thing for second one, but for drying you need to keep some pressure on it while drying.

Some more random tips :

use ball link pliers on the plastic part to make adjustments , won't stress glue joint.

Use some of the liquid wax ( bike chain lube ) on the rod guide. Helps to reduce wear on rod. ( lets hope Mikado comes up with a slightly longer holder one day - not holding breath I might add )

Martin
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Old 05-22-2014, 11:57 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Great tips! Thanks Marty.

EEngineer, definitely going for two

I'm just curious if it flew in that setup or am I really missing something. I've even tried to see if I've mismatched control rods. Closest one to that length is my Diabolo but still shorter and different attachment to tail servo. The X700 can't have a longer one let alone same length. Really a mystery to me unless it was repaired but never flown after. That seems to make most sense.
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Old 05-23-2014, 11:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcmarty View Post
Some things not right.

You mentioned it was a previous person doing the build.

IMO I'd order up a new rod and do it again. These big heli's are expensive to scratch up . ( $1200 last year on my crash )

I suspect the end slid back on him when the glue was wet , they tent to do that when not babysat during drying.

I use the JB weld on mine now.

Put a little inside the plastic end , a little on the CF rod (after sanding lightly ) , then spin the rod as I work the JB into the connection a few times. Then I let it set up ( one side ) , the first one won't want to slide off.

Same thing for second one, but for drying you need to keep some pressure on it while drying.

Some more random tips :

use ball link pliers on the plastic part to make adjustments , won't stress glue joint.

Use some of the liquid wax ( bike chain lube ) on the rod guide. Helps to reduce wear on rod. ( lets hope Mikado comes up with a slightly longer holder one day - not holding breath I might add )

Martin
+1...

And, no matter what adhesive is used, always clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol...or something....to remove any residue.

All epoxy has a set time....so get the pressure on during this time...

And, as always, take the time

FWIW
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Old 05-24-2014, 01:56 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EEngineer View Post
+1...

And, no matter what adhesive is used, always clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol...or something....to remove any residue.

FWIW
Is this the same thing used for degreasing before applying loctite I always hear about for fresh screws that might have oil residue?
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Old 05-24-2014, 10:41 PM   #13 (permalink)
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A fancy name for "rubbing alcohol" that you get a the drugstore.
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Old 05-24-2014, 11:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yup that's what I've got. Question is, is that what one's supposed to use for degreasing? Cheers.
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Old 05-25-2014, 11:50 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Spit and polish....
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