Alternative Heads

[Birdkiller]

Originally Posted by rawfuls

What size bearings are those?
You can usually get those for pretty dang cheap on eBay..

What are those bearings there for?

I also noticed you have two holes on the bottom of the shaft, am I missing something?
I thought both V1/V2 had only 1 hole?

Or did you make it that way, so it'll be compatible with V1 and V2?

The bearings measured to be 2mm ID x 5mm OD x 1.4mm or .058" thickness.

Te bearings are there to provide a smooth pivot point for the fly bar.

If you buy an Extreme head, the shaft will all make sense to you, it comes with 2 holes, one hole for V1 and the other ( bottom) for V 2. Really the only difference is the diameter of the top hole. On the stock setup you have a 1mm pin that goes through the center hub, on the Extreme setup you have a 2mm screw that goes through the center hub so the hole in the shaft must me a bit bigger.

[rawfuls]

Found what you needed, minus the width.

Width seems to be 1.5mm

http://www.bocabearings.com/search.a...perator=%3E%3d

[Birdkiller]

Originally Posted by rawfuls

Found what you needed, minus the width.

Width seems to be 1.5mm

http://www.bocabearings.com/search.a...perator=%3E%3d

Already ordered it brotha.... thanks though man!

[rawfuls]

Same place?
Haha, sorry for the late reply then..

[Birdkiller]

Originally Posted by rawfuls

Same place?
Haha, sorry for the late reply then..

Yep the exact same bearing, HH guided me there a couple days ago during a PM conversation.

Thanks for looking out though man, much appreciated.

[toonttm]

Originally Posted by Birdkiller

Well I installed one of my own shafts in my Bee, only to notice while doing so I have major problems with my Extreme center hub. The screws came loose that hold the bearings in and I lost one, and almost the other....

Those bearings are a pain, I have lost mine a few times but magically found them on the ground, I put loctite on them - not sure how they think something with that much movement is going to remain intact

[Birdkiller]

Originally Posted by toonttm

Those bearings are a pain, I have lost mine a few times but magically found them on the ground, I put loctite on them - not sure how they think something with that much movement is going to remain intact

Yeah it's a bad design...
They should have pressed them in. They wouldn't be as easily replaced but at $10 EACH it only takes loosing 3 of them to have a whole nother center hub paid for.
you will looses 3 bearings before you could wear one set of pressed in bearings out.
I've only had it for about 6 weeks and haven't put a full lipo through it due to other issues and already lost one!!

Something isnt right there....

[mrderekcu]

Originally Posted by Birdkiller

Lolol......sorry I guess I have a really corny sense of humor, although I'm glad you finally got a chuckle from it.

Sorry can't answer your guru question for sure, I've never had a guru frame. Things to look at if know one gives you afor sure answer would be the diameter of the guru shaft, and bearings and clearances all that stuff, I'm sure there is a way to make it work.........heck we can make anything work around here!

If know one answers your question start a new thread to grab more people's attention, you should get the answer your looking for then.

Hehe, well if nobody does answer, I'll get the head by probably friday of this week, I'll let you guys know how it goes.

[Stevespana]

The Guru-Z frame is designed so that all the parts from a V1 Bee can be directly swapped over to the new frame. The main shaft is 3mm and Guru-Z offered different shaft lengths to suit different configurations. ie, longer shaft to accommodate belt drive tail, CP head.

Using an Xtreme head won't be a problem, especially if used with the Xtreme shaft which has 2 lower holes for the main gear.

Steve.

[rawfuls]

Originally Posted by Stevespana

The Guru-Z frame is designed so that all the parts from a V1 Bee can be directly swapped over to the new frame. The main shaft is 3mm and Guru-Z offered different shaft lengths to suit different configurations. ie, longer shaft to accommodate belt drive tail, CP head.

Using an Xtreme head won't be a problem, especially if used with the Xtreme shaft which has 2 lower holes for the main gear.

Steve.

If the Xtreme shaft has two holes on the bottom, why are they marketing two different shafts, a short and long?

Or are they theoretically the same thing?

Do all of their shafts (short & long) have the two holes on the bottom?

[HELIHANKSTER]

Originally Posted by rawfuls

If the Xtreme shaft has two holes on the bottom, why are they marketing two different shafts, a short and long?

Or are they theoretically the same thing?

Do all of their shafts (short & long) have the two holes on the bottom?

I don’t know 100%, but I think Xtreme only makes the longer shaft with the two holes now. The shorter Xtreme shaft has one hole and will only fit the Bee V1, but the longer Xtreme V2 shaft with the two holes is made to fit both the Bee V1 and V2. I think the reason behind this is so Xtreme only has to make and ship one shaft to fit both versions of the Bee.

[rawfuls]

Okay, so I'll just need the V2 longer shaft for my converted V2...

Thanks again HeliHankster!

[HELIHANKSTER]

Yep!

[mrderekcu]

So I got my parts some weeks ago, just wanted to say I got everything working, well almost.

Concerning loctite, is it required? These philips heads seem weak and very susceptible to stripping. I've considered using some white glue to get that vibration resistance and sufficient holding power without risking stripping the thing. However, I've been told that is not a good idea, and loctite is the way to go. How much am I supposed to use? A dab? A thin, thin coat?

On my guru-z neon, I would have to use the V2 setting for setup, but after a lot of trial and error, I made the V1 setting work. I had to shorten the anti rotation bracket though. Maybe those using a V2 can use V1 setting if they do the same. It probably just binds completely, but I'm not sure, just something you can try that could save ya a buck a shaft

Also for setup, I realize we can't flip the flybar control frame like we used to do, making tuning a pita. What I did was measure the flybar beforehand, use a piece of tape to mark exactly where the cf rod meets one side of the control frame, and then just slide it in later. No need to make constant adjustments if you mark exactly where its supposed to be.