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300X Blade 300X Helicopters Information and Help |
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06-12-2014, 02:11 PM | #541 (permalink) |
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60A ESC is way overkill for the 300X unless you don't mind the extra weight and possible mounting issue. If everything else is stock in your 300X, I would just fly the stock ESC until you upgrade the motor, etc. Tail blades for 450 are way too big for the 300X. Even cut down to make stock 300x rotor diameter, 450 blades have too much chord (yes I tried). You'll bog them before you stall them. As I mentioned, the reason I go for 450 tail assembly is that my stock hub was bent out of the box. Instead of getting another soft hub I decided to run 450 hub and assembly so I can't tell you how reliable is the stock plastic tail assembly.
Read the BeastX manual. Stock manual of electronics often contain good info people tend to miss. For more info beyond stock BX manual, check out the tuning guide in the BeastX section on here. Ask question here if you still have any.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC |
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07-04-2014, 01:30 AM | #542 (permalink) |
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Almost made it to 2000 flights but yesterday my elevator servo finally quit mid-flight after about 1000 flights on it. I'm not blaming the Corona 919MG servos. It's really my fault not replacing it sooner when I realized the elevator servo was getting more sloppy and started to jitter (like an open linear servo in a micro heli) perhaps 200 flights ago. I just sprayed DeOxit at the pot inside and it seemed to fix the jitter. I was really curious as to how hard I could beat these servos to death. Remember I glue my home-made frame brace onto the elevator servo housing so it takes a lot of physical stress as part of the frame brace absorbing vibrations. The metal gears in these servos survive a few good crashes including this last one that actually broke the included servo arm without stripping a gear! All that stress for 1000 of flights! Now that I've done my long-term endurance test with these servos, next time when symptom comes up I'll just change it out not risking the heli by saving a $7 replacement.
There has been talks about mounting the 919 servos. Here're some pics of my setup. Again, just simple mods to nail-clip some corners and nubs on the "ears" and shim fabricated out of Blade spare part paper folded up and hole poked for screw. Apart from long-term test for the Corona 919MG servos, I'm also very happy with my home-made no-jesus-bolt short mainshaft. Love how the low-head flies and how it is less prone to main rotor vibration and bending/damage from crash due to lower moment arm effect from the shorter mainshaft. So far on crashes the key/keyway design just pops the keys out of the keyways letting the head stop without main gear stopping, preventing further damage. My main gear survived a few hard crashes without stripping solely because of this.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC |
07-04-2014, 07:29 AM | #543 (permalink) |
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Thanks for the pictures, now i know your using same hole on arms I am You have a great camera, and that helis is Dirty lol ha ha almost 2000 flights guess so.
I do not understand the no jesus bolt shaft your talking about. i seen i guess MH or lynx maybe both offer a shorter main shaft but wasn't sure if useable on the stock frame. I know lot of people like short main shafts but seems with a short shaft the swash can't move around as much for control w/o hitting. maybe it doesn't need that much movement.I guess in 3 yrs when i get that many flights on mine I will have replacing servos to deal with lol, You have flown so much on that heli. I also see you didn't use the rubber things that came with the servos, we always used those on glow planes and over years none the servos i got came with them, these, did so i used them. guess doesn't matter if you do or don't.
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RAW 580 ,lots of Planes Powered by IX14 AMA 36 yrs. Last edited by Epoweredrc; 07-04-2014 at 08:59 AM.. |
07-04-2014, 07:46 AM | #544 (permalink) |
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Paper on a heli... c'mon dCH!
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Micro: OMP Hobby M1 Medium: Blade 330X 6S, SAB Goblin 380 Big: SAB Goblin 500 Radio: Spektrum DX8 Gen 1 |
07-04-2014, 08:05 AM | #545 (permalink) |
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DCH,.........thank you for the good photos! Amazing to see servos last so long.
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07-04-2014, 12:25 PM | #546 (permalink) | |
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My custom home-made no-jesus-bolt short mainshaft project details are here: https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=621896 If you carefully and properly set up the swash limit (no more than 12 degrees of max cyclic) and swash height on the mainshaft there's room to lower the head without issue.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC |
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07-04-2014, 12:39 PM | #547 (permalink) |
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Wait until you see dollar-store plastic knife tail fin, McDonald's napkin to soak-up/beep-up CA for frame repair, and dollar-store office-use colored paper sticky label for blade visibility.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC |
07-04-2014, 12:43 PM | #548 (permalink) |
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The 2 rear servos are still going strong no sign of getting tired but I'll keep close eyes on them and replace if in doubt. My KST DS215 tail servo has had about 1800 flights now and again no sign of getting tired. [knock on wood]
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC |
07-04-2014, 12:47 PM | #549 (permalink) | |
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I asked over and over in the MCPX threads and over the yrs and never got a answer, if you go using driffrent companys products do they fit t eh stock heli or you have to buy more to make things fit. kinda like frames a MH or lynx after market frame, does it still use all the stock bearings, shafts, booms, and so on.. always was confused about this, i have pretty much always flown helicopters stock, other then going BL with my first mcpx. Thanks so much for all the testing on the 300x and all your info hope i can add some data to help others along the way.. What landing gear you using ? I put a blade 450 3d/X gear on mine.. all had to do was drill two new holes and flex the gear a lil to get to line up. i think it looks great i painted mine.. Glad to see my dad not the only one who uses duck tape on is helicopters
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RAW 580 ,lots of Planes Powered by IX14 AMA 36 yrs. |
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07-14-2014, 03:19 PM | #550 (permalink) |
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Forgot to make the 2000 flight report last week. To be honest 2000 flights is just another milestone. Nothing much to be excited about. Haha!
I guess it'll be informative to make a list of number of stock parts, modded parts, and even original parts I've gone thru'... original (not just stock but original) parts: - canopy (with lots of tapes ), bought stock red/black canopy soon after I got my 300X but never really use it - AR7200BX - belt guide pulley assembly - tail pushrod (guides removed) - tail boom support rods - servo linkages (have been replaced by my custom lightweight linkages for a few hundred flights but decided the tiny bit of weight saving was not worth the hassle), plastic ends have been replaced once worn out though - non-OWB hub ZERO flights, OWB before even maiden stock parts: - swash, on my 2nd one, 1st one broke from crash at maybe 1400 flights but no slop - tail boom, on my 2nd one, about 1000 flights each, bent back straight after light crashes a few times before deciding to replace - plastic frame, on 3rd or 4th one, CA+tissue+CA fixed many cracks before time to replace - plastic main rotor hub, on my 3rd or 4th one, crash damage replacements, - plastic main blade grips, on my 4th or 5th pair maybe, i.e. about 6-8 broken grip arms, but if I have to do it again I'll still go for plastic - tail case, on my 4th, crash damage replacements - tail pitch lever arm, on my 3rd one, crash damage replacements - tail slider, on my 3rd one, crash damage replacements - tail belt, on my 4th one, 2 crash replacements, 1 wore out - tail shaft, probably my 7th, never bend one but always because belt gear wear out, design runs belt too slow which means too small tail gear which means too few teeth to grab the belt, tried Blade aluminum gear which was probably worse in wear - feathering shaft, maybe a dozen crash replacements - main gear, maybe my 7th, crash replacements, every one need shimming to remove wobble - anti-rotation pin, on my 3rd one, crash replacements - canopy mounting pins, on my 2nd set, crash damage replacement non-stock parts: - motors: stock motor maybe 30 flights after balancing and loctite mod before maiden, HobbyKing P2632 ~1300 flights, Hyperion HS-2213-3585 ~700 flights perfect motor for this heli, Lynx EOX ~20 flights test motor - motor pinions: stock brass wears out, Xtreme brass for P2632 wears out and gets noisy after many hundreds of flights, Rhino steel gear for P2632 is good no wear looks cast not machined, Hyperion machined gear for Hyperion motor is great no wear - 450X OWB hub, all of 2000+ flights, modded before maiden, Blade OWB wore out after a few hundred flights due to early version of OWB sleeve not running perfect, same for Align OWB, now running $1 OWB from obsolete heli for hundreds of flights - tail shaft bearings, 2 sets of stock bearings that wouldn't survive crashes, replaced with Align bearings that definitely survive crash better, replaced 1 Align bearing lost from most recent crash due to servo failure - main shaft bearings, 2 sets of stock bearings that wouldn't survive crashes, replaced with Align bearings that definitely survive better in crashes, replaced 1 Align bearing due to repeated crash impact - main shaft, probably had 8-10 crash replacements, never had a snap in-flight, 1 snap due to crash, now running my own custom home-made 25c-cost no-jesus-bolt short shaft with better flight performance lower moment arm effect for less vibration-prone and will slip on crashes to reduce damage - tail hub/grip assembly, original was bent out of the box (go figure), replaced with Tarot thrust assembly and flew hundreds of flights, then replaced with old Align non-thrust assmebly and flew for maybe 1000 flights where 1 radial bearing finally gave up without thrust bearing's help, now the Tarot thrust assembly is back in - cyclic servos, 1 original servo bad out of the box, the other 2 gave me reliability issue early on, replaced with TGY-S306G-HV with no issues for hundreds of flights, then got replaced by Corona 918MP/919MG servos for light weight and low-cost factors, 1 919 died at 800 flights most probably because of repeated stress because the elevator servo housing is used as part of frame brace, 1 rear cyclic 919 starts to have jitter just now so maybe I'll change it out - tail servo, stock lasted 150 flights, replaced with KST DS215MG and no issue performs great almost 1900 flights - ESC, no problem with stock ESC but I have to have governor so replaced with Turnigy AE45A at about 50 flights, 1st AE45A died soon after flashing probably defective from the factory, 2nd AE45A died after about 100 flights probably due to playing with BECs trying to fix stock crappy cyclic servo issue, 3rd AE45A all the way afterwards been running no heatsink no issue even with Lynx 400W motor - horizontal tail fin, original had a few hundred flights then damaged in crash, stock replacement removed after a few hundred flights decided no need - vertical tail fin, original lasted a few hundred flights then damaged in crash, stock replacement replaced by near-new KBDD main blade from mCPx that's not worth using in the mCPx, now running plastic knife as tail fin cheapest crash replacement - tail boom support mount, had 2 stock ones, now running custom home-made simplest-but-effective metal "u-clamp" design with 1 bolt holding clamp and boom rods - landing gear, original landing gear damaged in crash less than 100 flghts replaced with my custom home-made indestructible lighter-than-stock landing gear made from music wire and dollar-store wood dowel, don't know why I still have brand new stock replacement landing gear in my spare part box - tail blades, original tail blades lasted many hundred flights in total finally damaged in crash, tried cut-down 450 tail blades but not ideal, 2nd set of stock orange tail blades lasted many hundred flights until crash damage, just recently put on Lynx orange tail blades because I ran out of stock ones, bought these Lynx like 500 flights ago - head linkages, had about 2 sets of stock head linkages wore out too much grip end would pop out in-flight, replaced with Align plastic end and bolted-thru' ball on grip side now after at least 1000 flights never ever pop out, replaced Align linkages with Lynx turnbuckle a few hundred flights ago with Lynx plastic end for swash side but no good popped out in less than 100 flights, replaced with Align plastic ends and balls for the swash side but too strong never pop out on crash leading to grip damage, now running bottom plastic ends with B400 no-lettering plastic ends and stock balls and crossing my fingers - main blades, stock woodies were actually flyable even with my current setting with Hyperion motor at 3400+ governed HS, Blade 245 CF blades were durable but like many blades for the 300X run too thick airfoil and rob power, Lynx 245 plastic blades were too heavy and could amplify vibration because of flexy nature, HobbyHot 252 CF blades were great except a bit too much length+chord bogging a little more than I liked and price were although cheap ($18) still not as nice and cheap as the $9.41 X2-spec blades I'm running which is perfect for this heli, chord is a little on the low side but I'm not complaining For more detailed info on when I changed which part, try search within this thread. If I missed mentioning any part of the heli let me know.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC Last edited by DoubleCH; 07-21-2014 at 05:12 PM.. |
07-14-2014, 04:36 PM | #551 (permalink) |
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WOW... Now that is a very detailed flight report...
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RAW 580 ,lots of Planes Powered by IX14 AMA 36 yrs. |
07-22-2014, 11:38 AM | #552 (permalink) | ||
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Flight #2028 pay tribute to my 2025 flight old original stock canopy lost in the field.
Stupid me I somehow managed to put on the canopy halfway but forgot to click on the canopy pins then went to some other work before taking off. First piro and the canopy dropped out of the heli into the long grass and I couldn't find it! Oh well, the 2025 flight old original stock canopy has got more tape than canopy so it's time for the "new". one. I bought this one soon after I got my 300X 1.5 years ago but I've only had it on for a few recorded flights. I guess I'll use this from now on. Anyways, kind of felt bored today so I decided to do some low flying which I haven't done for some time plus I'm getting a bit more confident doing piro flips lower and closer (than my usual far-and-high area). Time to pay tribute to my original canopy lost in the field.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC |
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08-06-2014, 12:31 AM | #553 (permalink) | ||
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Flight #2057-2063 Revisiting Align-size balls for head linkages and replacing over-due swash follower arms
Yesterday, 1 of the swash follower arms popped out mid-flight because the plastic end wore out so much after over 1000 flights and I didn't even notice it until after landing. The swash phase was all maintained by just 1 follower arm. Upon closer inspection, 1 head linkage swash side plastic end was so loose I could quite easily pop it out with 1 finger. So today I changed out the swash follower arms to my broken ones (broke at the horizontal arms but not the vertical arms) more than 1000 flights ago and converted the swash-size ball/end to Align size once again. As you may remember I changed my head linkages to run Align size balls and plastic ends some time ago. https://www.helifreak.com/showpost.p...4&postcount=15 Because they work so robust and durable they wouldn't pop out on hard crashes but resulted in more damages, I swapped them out soon after. Since I don't crash that often any more it's time to re-visit Align ball mod. Cyclic response feels much more precise with new balls/ends now. I also ripped out the worn orange duct tape over skid pipes and tried this time neon green duct tape which doesn't look that good. Oh well. Also re-balanced main blades and it's super smooth not even tiny vibes.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC |
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08-08-2014, 03:42 AM | #554 (permalink) |
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Great flying as always. The green skids look okay only not as bright. You get alot of mileage from your components......that's good!
Just tonight I ordered the Real Flight Basic simulator. Basic means it can not use the upgrade CD's for more models. It has the same excellent flight modeling and graphics......but only comes with twelve helicopters and 40 airplanes.....that's it. Fine with me.....it was only $85 new and comes with controller. So now I will get motivated and get my AR7200BX programmed, setup, and 300x running again. Been flying small fast RC warbirds alot......but time to get back to helicopters. |
11-22-2014, 01:18 AM | #555 (permalink) | |
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I see (somewhat) where you clipped the servos to fit, and can see why it was necessary. However, why did they need to be shimmed and how much? I may use old credit card for this or fiber washers, depends what it needs. It also appears you have something between the two servos there? |
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11-22-2014, 12:37 PM | #556 (permalink) |
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Shim the rear servos out so that pushrods are as vertical as possible. Shim between the 2 rear servos is the well-known simple fix to reinforce the rear servo rectangular tower frame, preventing from becoming a parallelogram.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC |
01-31-2015, 10:54 PM | #557 (permalink) | ||
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Flight #2129-2133 Out of Hibernation
Haven't flown my 300X for over 4 months because I've stolen the batteries to fly my FPV250 quad and I have limited space in my box I haul to fly so my 300X and my 450DFC have been sitting on the shelf collecting dust (literally). Today I took my 300X out of hibernation. Checked over everything made sure I didn't miss fixing anything before I shelved it. And it flies good! With the thin airfoil X2-clone blades the collective is very sensitive near center but I can feel the effortless cyclic/collective response. When I say effortless I mean even though my stretched Protos (470mm blades) that I've been putting a lot of flights in these days have even faster cyclic/collective response, that ones comes from sheer power and fast servos. The 300X is like there's very little inertia/momentum so the blades can easily change the heli's attitude and altitude. It definitely doesn't have the hang time the stretched Protos has, but it's not like micros where your goal is almost all about keeping it from darting in random directions. Love the power system. Good power, efficient and doesn't bottleneck on any 1 particular part. This flight posted on Youtube was powered by a 15-month old nanotech 25C 1500 probably had 150 flights in the 300X and another 40 or so flights in my FPV250 quad. IR is a little higher than my 12-month old nanotech 25C 1500 but had no problem keeping up with the beat. Piro-flip is harder to keep at one spot than with the Protos obviously, partially because of the less hang time but also because the thin airfoil blades are very sensitive near zero collective. As always with cam curse the 4 flights before this one were more spectacular but somehow I aimed the Mobius with 6mm long lens too low or the Mobius got loose and didn't get the good footage. So on my 5th pack I toned it down and was too distracted to make sure my head was turning to keep the heli in frame as best as I could.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC |
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02-07-2015, 01:45 AM | #558 (permalink) | |
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02-07-2015, 07:18 PM | #559 (permalink) |
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You're right that the 300X can be made cheap to fly good and maintained. I love my 300X having cheap parts and other home-made mods that make it super cheap to maintain.
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mCPx'es/130X/3D-foamie: ugly mods 300X: fast beater/trainer, Protos stretched: trainer but can also go fast FPV250 5.8G, nQx FPV, Oh also Trex 450DFC |
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