TmMugen got his hands on the new TT Titan X50

[dards]

www.rcpak.com

[TmMugen]

Been away for a couples of days..Here comes the TmMugen's poison again..

My "self proclaimed" mini studio shoots of the X50..

[TmMugen]

Closer shots..

[TmMugen]

Paging for all X50 potential owners..:z

[TmMugen]

Last set to go..

[TmMugen]

Just a teaser..Meant to be a joke among our group of fliers. The second pics seems like the guy is "praying" to the heli.

[TmMugen]

Pics taken by STS..

[ghostrider414]

Thats 1 beautiful bird I got to save for mine cant wait love the red belt

[TmMugen]

decided to do some PP to it..

[VortechZ230]

That is sooo Fricken nice, I would be afraid to fly it!!, great job!.......

[TmMugen]

The party of TWO..Next week will be FOUR. :ts

[BobbySmith]

Really nice reveiw!! We actually just got these kits instock iam dien to get one built

[TmMugen]

Guys..been flying this X50 for a while..I found that while it is light and powerful, there seems to be some CCPM interaction during the flight..

How do I know? It is because during my flight while I am doing my four points tic toc, the heli nose pointing 9 and 6 o clock is moving away (I can't seems to keep it straight facing me). Even when I started to do it from 3 to 12 o clock, I can feel some interaction..

Some might said that it is my fingers..but while I am doing the same stunt with other heli, I managed to pull of the stunt pretty well..

Wonder if there is any advice?

[CrazyJim]

Hi Tim and all

I notice, Tim, that you have some cables exiting the frame through the round hole just forward of the main shaft. I have the same.
I found some spare 90SE tank grommets that are identical to those used in the frame of the X50 to get the fuel line through .
Probably a bit late now but they look real nice and are kind to your cables.

Just a thought. Nice build too Tim

Ian

[Raptor30_V1]

Hello,

First of all .. use 140 degrees eCCPM. The 140 degrees swash control has is a big advantage over the 120 degrees eCCPM. Take a sheet of paper and make a sketch showing a circle.. make some point on the circle at the back position (related to flight direction) and at 120 degrees on circle 2 points for the aileron .. now its pretty easy to see, that the back point (relates to elevator control of swashplate has one radius to the centre (=main shaft centre) .. meanwhile the 2 aileron points have only half of radius distance when applying elevator input..

That's exactly where the 135 degr. or 140 degr. swashplate arrangement jumps in.. you will have even swashplate tilt at the 135/140 degrees eCCPM when applying elevator input from the aileron servos compared to the elevator servo. So 140 degrees eCCPM is way more even swashplate control .. this improves not only by having more even swashplate control for collective and cyclic, then improves interactions as well..

There are 2 kind of Tx to correct for interactions and phasing: low cost Tx and medium to high cost Tx.

- low cost Tx: (e.g. Fut T6, T7, Spektrum Dx6, Dx7 etc.) you can only use endpoints for the 3 cyclic servos and using a swashplate alignement tool having the swashplate being in the up/ medium/ down position to be lateral (in elevator and aileron direction) to the main shaft .. there is no Tx-feature to correct for interaction or phasing ..

- medium to hig cost Tx: there are software features to correct for lateral collectiv-movement, interactions at min./max. collective and phasing ..

How to find out and correct when flying? First trim your heli in hoover (=collective in the middle more or less) and set-up your gyro for the best possible:

- climb horizontally at full collective (and full negative = inversed) and observe where heli tends .. e.g. heli tends to the right/ left and/ or for/ backwards .. correct servo endpoints (cyclic servos) accordingly for full/ full negative .. (this is about interaction aile/ elevator to full/ full negative pitch)

- correcting for phasing is completely different: make half of a flip.. and if heli's tail (on its back) is not in the same plaine, it's a phasing issue .. if heli is hanging towards one side (aileron axle) it's a gyro issue .. there is a very good post here on HF of an experienced guy describing this issue ..

Phasing is way more difficult to find out than interactions .. you will have to play around with virtual swash tilt function (not available on low cost Tx) until you find the right correction ..

Reading all of this, it should become clear to beginners and average pilots, why eCCPM is not that big miracle, it is sold by manufacturers marketing ..

Is all of this a problem? It depends.. one of my buddies is that good in collective and cyclic skills, he will correct any unwanted movement .. for everybody else if you do not want any complex corrections you can:

- eihter buy and use a mechanical swash mixing (yepp, the Raptor had that) ..
- install a FBL-system that actively corrects ..

Maybe now it becomes clear, why many people changing to FBL are so happy .. FBL overcomes the drawbacks of eCCPM manufactures tried to tell us the last 4 years being the best?

Best Regards,
Oliver

P.S: There's nothing easier than a light-weighted mecanical CCPM, real modular helicopters (no servos in the side-frames) and linear carbs with no interactions .. unfortunatelly the trend is opposite .. and as long as websites as rc-heliresource are all about pushing sals without using our brains .. we are dead-meat

[CrazyJim]

Just setting up the blades on my, as yet unflown, X50.
Noticed a lot of play in the grip. ( Thrust bearings oriented correctly )
After measuring I found the bore for the bearing closest to the head up by 0.05mm on the bearing.
Doesn't sound like much but by the time you get that out to 600mm it's a whole lot.
Grabbed a couple of stock 30V2 grips and checked them. They were the correct bore.
Had to drill them out to 8.5 through the centre as the new feathering shaft is larger.
Much better.
I will drop a quick line to TT to bring them up to speed.

Ian

[CrazyJim]

Originally Posted by TmMugen

The head was a no brainer. Very fast to build..!! Hopefully I locktite all the screws. :z

Hi Tim,

Did you notice the orientation of the ball cup at the end of the arms to the swash from the washout ( as in the pic ). Mine were reversed. That is to say the wide part of the cup was facing out from the swash. As these parts have rotational symetry of 1 I could not orient them any other way than they are ie the same as yours. Just wondered if yours were the same or I'm goin crazy...

Best regards

Ian

[johnbs8]

Did you notice the orientation of the ball cup at the end of the arms to the swash from the washout ( as in the pic ). Mine were reversed. That is to say the wide part of the cup was facing out from the swash. As these parts have rotational symetry of 1 I could not orient them any other way than they are ie the same as yours. Just wondered if yours were the same or I'm goin crazy...

put that in english?

[CrazyJim]

Originally Posted by johnbs8

put that in english?

Sorry about that seemed confusing when I read it back.

Ok. The ball link at the end of the washout linkage BK0016-1 has the wide part of the linkage facing out ( ie the link end that goes on the ball at the swash ) These should, as per all links, be fitted with the wider opening towards the ball.
The Washout linkages on mine are not correct

Hope that makes sense

Ian

[johnbs8]

makes much more sense now lol ty for clarifying. how were yours not right and the fix?