Just noticed something! (PLEASE READ IF YOU HAVE A 3g)

[DesertClimber]

Originally Posted by elkmaster01

A better connector is warrented.

It's not SOLELY a one-time thing, but it sure doesn't lend itself to easy removal.

I totally agree with you- a better, true locking type connector (with release) would have been better, but, more expensive. A lot of it may come down to doing it cheap & small.

Originally Posted by helisfreak

How about USB adapter, if we ever get one, I heard that port is the same port that would be use for the USB...

That's gonna suck if it is. There may be more people having problems after yanking that connector out!

[DesertClimber]

Originally Posted by ForceFedDSM

I have pulled the whole white connector out of mine still attached to the plug. I don't think it will come out under vibration, mine took an awful lot of force to pull it all the way out(I couldn't get the plug out). It pushes back over some 90º pins and works with no issues.

Did you do anything to get it to stay put like jondabear, or just 'push it back in'? Any news since then?

Jondabear, any pics?

[CeeveeSiN]

no issues now with the connector on any of the 3 units I have.
they snap in solidly and require a good yank to get off.

Ive removed them and replaced them many times and no issues. checked all the pins though and all are fine.

[DesertClimber]

Originally Posted by CeeveeSiN

...and require a good yank to get off.

Mine are fine, too.

That 'yank' is what's causing the housing to come free from the unit, though.

Guess some of those bad-boys just aren't secured as well as they should be.

[jondabear]

O.K. Pics arent going to be possible as my cam got lost this weekend. BUT, Ill do my best to describe this..... Remove 2 halves of main control unit to expose white plug where cable will attach. You will notice that the white plug will slide to and fro on the pins if its pushed with a little force. RE SEAT white conn. all the way back untill it stops and butts up against the pins where they make a 90% and meet the board. a single drop of industrial strength hot glue( BLACK IN COLOR, whole stick will be black and this will b HIGH temp stuff so use the appropriate gun to heat;torch works for me) rt where the connector butts up with ther pins. Allow a bit to drip on the board as well. When this stuff dries, youll have to re heat it to get it off. JUST a warning, These sticks cost about 11- 15 dollars for about 4 of em.

To all my electroniclly savvy breatheren out there...........Now would be a good time to find a large scale or heavy duty servo conn and do a small board mod. with maybe a copper plate wafer board to reinforce and tack the new leads. May not even be needed from what Im looking at in my hands. But for those that are weary of the famous "BUS " problem and have a little electronics background, this mayu be a little piece of mind.

Another"SMALL" l.o.l. thought that ive had was possibly a stiffening cap. in line with the main power and ground. Just to level things out a bit and possibly take a small hit ,amps wise, if it ever came to that. BUT........What the heck do I know.......Ive only been dealing with dc electronics for over 20 yrs. L.O.L............As always......hope this helps someone.........REALLY tired as I write this...........PEACE!

[trentp]

Hey guys, just read this thread and it fully explains what happened to me the other day at the vegas fun fly. I was about 5 mins into a flight and stopped ripping around for a sec to a hover over the runway and out of nowhere my 700 (brand new mind you) went full negative collective into the asphalt and spun in pretty bad. I had no clue what happened. When I checked over it I noticed I had full control of the cyclic (aileron and elevator) but the swash was stuck at the bottom. I thought that this was very weird, I tried rebooting and everything seemed fine. I ended up walking up and asking Alan (Szabo) what he thought it might be and he said he didnt think it could have been a 3G problem, on further inspection he pulled out the connector to the gyro and what do you know, the white piece came with it, and it appeared that one of the connectors had been bent inside of the gyro also. We messed with it for a bit and were able to get it to when it wiggled the system would try to reboot but would drop the swash to the bottom and never give us control of the collective. He told me to send my unit in (which I will do) but it seems like I might have had an issue with the connection to the gyro that caused the glitch in the first place. It does seem however that I have a bad unit as he said even if the gyro comes disconnected you should still have control of the collective, you will just be without the 3 axis gyro.

So this is a warning to anyone that has a 3G untit, MAKE SURE YOUR CONNECTOR IS PLUGGED IN FULLY AND EVERYTHING IS MAKING CONTACT! It may seem fully connected even when its not!

Here's some pics of the issues with my connector, hope it helps!

How the connector pulled out:


What it would look like when not fully inserted into gyro sensor (note: black connector on wire will still snap into the white piece and seem fully connected):


Issue with one of the connectors being too short:

[jondabear]

Thats it! I need not say or add anything else! And this is what has masked itself as a "bus" problem. Proofs in the pudding. Thanx for the pics and sorry bout the crash.

These may do well as a one time soldering candidate.

[trentp]

Glad I could help!

[DesertClimber]

Originally Posted by trentp

Glad I could help!

Thanks for sharing the pics! Hopefully your heli isn't too bad off....

[remoterecon]

I would highly recommend an adhesive called, "The Amazing GOOP" to glue all of your connectors in place. It has a consistency similar to silicone in that it stays flexible after it dries. It's not permanent and with a bit of effort can be peeled away to remove the connector.

I had a similar problem with the SK360 where one of my cyclic servo wires popped off mid flight. The crash (violently pitched forward into the ground) was immediate and expensive.

Since then, I trust nothing to chance.

I also have the 3G 600N and noticed the white locking mechanism was only press fit onto the connectors. After a visual inspection to make sure it's seated properly, I gooped the entire connector to the chassis of the 3G making sure that it won't come out unless I want it to.

Cheers,

Ian.

[rjuch]

fyi ... same issue on my 500 ...
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=203593

thought it was a bec cutoff from the ICE 100, ive now ordered a jive 80hv, upgrading my 500 to 3g has cost me a lot ...

[joezasada]

I had the same issues with my 3g system for my TREX 250. I had to take apart the main unit and use needle nose pliers to straighten out and lengthen the pins. That fixed it and it seems good now.

Also if you need to disconnect the cable, I find it helps to use a tiny flat blade screwdriver to pop apart the locking teeth on the connector socket.

[jondabear]

+1.......now were thinking! Always surprises me how the learning curve for a new product plays out to its intended audience.

Really wish this thing was a little friendlier. Hope r&d @ al@#$ take this stuff to heart. Probably not.........but that's what I'm here for.....lol.

[Biboy]

Hi guys I just wanted to share my mishap with the 3g System. First of all i was really jazz up went it went out so i went ahead and change all my heli's to the 3g system. My first set was the version 1 for the Trex 500 and that is where all the problem was. When i got the 3g for the 500 i did notice the tail kick around 15 degrees to the left (nose to the right) and did some research... there were thoughts of putting a delay or static issue, or even power loss..
Well i said lets eliminate it one by one. I started to by adding the capacitor made by spektrum to my system to help with the so called power hunger or loss.. Then i traced the static issue by using a static pen to detect it and spayed anti static on the gears where it was originating.. then i went and added the delay to the set of my 3g system .. every time the changes was done there was alot of flying done to test ofcors
and still i had the tail kick issue .. ok I said i have to wait for the so called update for this system. I still kept flying and would still get the tail kick from time to time (in every 6 flights 1 tail kick) I even heard that this was normal ..

ok that being said here is the Sad part.. one nice morning i was out in a local flying feild (Whittier narrows) as i initialized my Heli i notice that the Tail servo moved rapidly left and right for about 3 times as the head was moving up down .. I thought this was new and never saw that .. then it moved left and right again but slower around 3 times again.
So i unplugged the battery and reinitialized again and this time i did not get the tail movement ...

As i hovered the Heli it seemed fine so i did my usual flight sport flying some inverted flight as i finished the flight on my approach heli infront of me sideways..
The heli started to move the tail Rapidly left then right around 3 time or more the did a pirouette then stopped ... When this happed i was about 30 feet in the air realized that there was something wrong I went a gently brought the heli down about 7 feet in the air as it repeated the doing the rapid left and right movement then pirouette.. this time i could not save it .

The heli hit the grass and damaged the blades mast etc luckily i had put throttle hold on it..

I reported this to the hobby shop(Robins Hobby) i bought the 3g from there were very kind to forward the issue to assurance RC. the hobby shop gave me a replacement of the 3g ..

today I flew the heli with the replacement 3g still a version 1 as i hovered it it still did same thing ... good thing i was only about 10 inches hovering ...

Has anybody seen this happen??? i have 5 heli using the 3g system only my trex 500 is doing this ...

Im going to do the update tonight

[HiroboFreak]

Sounds like it's common to the heli rather than a faulty 3G unit.
Possibly a bad Rx or tail servo.

[dditch66]

What is the prefered method for safe removal? Stick a small flat screwdriver in and push the white housing up to let the tabs release?

[dditch66]

Originally Posted by dditch66

What is the prefered method for safe removal? Stick a small flat screwdriver in and push the white housing up to let the tabs release?

My answer:
https://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=226636

[jondabear]

wow.....haven't been in here for a while. Anyone still having problems with the pins really? Hopefully not. Hope everyone that needed to read this did. Peace!

[rjuch]

solved my problem, switched to vbar ... best thing i ever did, wont touch another align electronic product ever again

[jondabear]

Scarry stuff to mess around with. Huh?
Its definately not for everyone....that's for sure.
We will miss ur input. Peace!