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Old 09-21-2011, 10:17 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Crashability/Things I should know?

Looking at possibly swapping to either an MA Furion or a Mini Protos and am researching what is and isn't good about the two.
So how do these things crash? I've heard they are a bit fragile.
Is there anything else I should know about the Protos, any oddities or build requirements etc?
What is electronics mounting like? It will have a mini Vbar on it.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 09-22-2011, 12:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I can speak about mini protos and tell you it handles a crash very well.

Depending on your flight style (and crash style) damages may change, from the usual suspects (spindle, main shaft - mainly if you fly FBL were a slight bend will generate vibes) to the servo support if you touch head down quite hard.

If crashing with tail carefully check tail grip bearings, having no washer may block the grip.

I love my minip!
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Old 09-22-2011, 07:22 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The holes on the canopy break very easily.
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Old 09-22-2011, 12:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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The holes on the canopy break very easily.
That's true, even with no crashes. I've put superglue around the grommets and it seems to help a bit.
I may get fusuno canopy as my next just because of above reason, which is a shame because original mini canopy looks great.
There is enough space to mount even full size mini vbar. I have cgy750 mounted (which has separate sensor), no problems.
Other thing to keep in mind is that stock tail blades work the best for most people.
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Old 09-22-2011, 02:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You can strengthen the hole around the canopy by cutting a small piece of lexan and apply some CA to it and glue it on the inside. Then take a reamer and ream the hole to the same size as the canopy. Then put the grommet back on. You can cut the thin lexan into a shape that goes around the hole and forward some to add strength.
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Old 09-22-2011, 03:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Wrap some cotton wire in a u shape around the grommet, then cover with CA. Works great when broken.

Anyway, as up today no one commented on the Furion, let me say that compared to my SEV2 the mini is much more robust.
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I had a 450 Pro before this one, and the Mini has better crashability than the Pro - both because I think it's a little tougher, but also on the Pro everything is aluminium, and it's easy to bend parts like blade grips in a crash which then cost around $30 to replace. The Mini's blade grips for example are plastic, so they don't bend in a moderate crash, and if you break them they are much cheaper - about $5 if I recall correctly.

I've always thought the Furion looks nice, but it's a niche brand heli, nicely made but expensive. The thing that I like about the Mini P is parts are cheaper and more available, but the biggest thing is the stretch kit - this thing on 350's and FBL totally rocks. Those are the two main reasons I bought the Mini P recently.

Does somebody in Aus sell Mini P parts? If so, it's a no brainer. Stretching is well worth it too.
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Yeah, parts are available down here.
Basically, I have thrown money at my current 450 and can't for the life of me get rid of a tail vibe that is killing my Vbar, so I'm looking at other (high end) 450s as an option.

MA Furion - No FBL head option! Seriously?!? Silly move IMO or I'd have one on order already.
Mini Protos - Interesting and looking at the options now, hence this thread.
CY Rave 450 - How much?!
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Old 09-22-2011, 10:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I looked at the Rave too but parts availability and cost made me go for the Mini.
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Old 09-25-2011, 05:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Look no further than the MiniP...built like a tank, super-quiet, and an amazing thing of beauty with a Vbar/DS95's on board. Best flying heli I have
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Old 09-26-2011, 09:14 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Mini-P rocks, great machine.

Parts are cheap, its QUIET, and fly's wonderfully. I actually enjoy it more than my Protos 500.

You also get a VERY good ESC that doesn't go into "pout mode".

Vibes? That stinks. Thankfully I have a BeastX so I don't worry about vibes...
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Old 09-26-2011, 11:22 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Hello
i Highly recommend this Alu parts.. (MSH41114
Main shaft 3rd bearing CNC Mini)
http://www.msheli.com/Item.aspx?IDItem=318

Prevent a lot of damage when you touch the Floor on the Rotor side...
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Old 09-26-2011, 11:23 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Hello
i Highly recommend this Alu parts.. (MSH41114
Main shaft 3rd bearing CNC Mini)
http://www.msheli.com/Item.aspx?IDItem=318

Prevent a lot of damage when you touch the floor on the Rotor side...
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Old 09-26-2011, 11:39 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I'd like to add another observation of mine:

Plastic main rotor grips do break in hard crashes but, by breaking, they prevent the servos from being damaged. I have crashed many times both my FBL Protos and FBL MiniP, and yet the cyclic servos survived all those crashes. No broken servo gears so far.

When you talk about crashability, I think it's a very important factor whether or not the servos and other mechanical equipments will survive. I've seen so many of FBL T-REX
pilots compelled to change servo gears after each crash.
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:24 AM   #15 (permalink)
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So what is there to dislike about the MiniP?
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Old 09-27-2011, 05:45 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
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So what is there to dislike about the MiniP?
In one word, nothing
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Old 09-27-2011, 06:38 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
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So what is there to dislike about the MiniP?
That it wasn't stretched and 4s capable out of the box.

No biggie, new boom/belt/tail pushrod, and a new motor - fixed.
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Old 09-27-2011, 08:06 AM   #18 (permalink)
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as i said it in the 3d-thread before:

one constitutional disability of the minip - but i guess the only one - is the replacement of the roll-servos... it grows to a nerve-racking puzzle because of the nearly unseeable lower screw-threads you have to deal with...
so avoid damaging the servogears in case of crashing...

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Old 09-27-2011, 09:11 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
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it grows to a nerve-racking puzzle because of the nearly unseeable lower screw-threads you have to deal with...
You need a longer allen wrench. Mine is about 7" long and works great for getting those screws out.
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:38 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I just pull the entire servo cage / main shaft assembly out to maintenance servos. It really is pretty easy to work on!
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