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Old 08-09-2005, 12:39 AM   #41
sumonzu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marked23
Waaaa!

It didn't work for me. I got it down to .001 then tightened a little. Then recheck, good. Tighten more, still good. (several iterations)... One last crank down... then .003.

Now the dang thing is on there tight, and loosening the nut gives me nothing. I can't tap it in again with my hammer.

Did I maybe over torque it? I'm just holding the engine in my hands. I figured I couldn't torque it too much that way.

Where do I go from here? (new collets and a fan puller?)

-Mark
Me too I had problems like yours: no way less than .003. The only solutions I found was to sand the bronze cone inserted in the engine shaft on the side where the dial reading was high. After some try and test I reached less than .001
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Old 09-09-2005, 12:13 AM   #42
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Sometimes you have to take it off the motor, take the collects out, sand the tapper a little with 600 paper. Both sides of the tapper in the fan.
Sand the cone shape a little with 600 also. You are just taking any high spots off. Clean all of the parts and blow them off with some air.
Next take the nut that came off, put some 600 paper on a flat surface and take a few strokes off the nut. If it has a bur on it. it will screw thinks up to.
Then try it all again.
Be patient, you will get there.
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Old 09-09-2005, 05:10 AM   #43
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What you can do to make sure that it stays at .001 as you are tightening is to bolt on the wrench that comes withthe kit. The flat aluminum piece aned make sure the fan or collets do not turn at all when you are tightening. Hammer showed me that technique yesterday. All he does is sand the bottom of both collets to make sure they are smooth on 600 paper on a flat surface. (Just a little). Lube both collets a little. Only snug the nut on the crank enough so that with some force you can use your hands to align the fan so it dials out well. Mine went from around 2 thousandths to about 1/4 thousandth by hand. Then he attached the wrench and he had me hold the motor and crank lock and he very carefully tightened the crank nut down TIGHT while making sure nothing moved. (No movement in crank, fan or collets)

We then dial indicated it and still at 1/4 thousandths. Took all of 5 minutes and worked better than I have ever been able to do it spending 45+ minutes each time.

Thanks Hammer!!
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Old 09-23-2005, 05:53 AM   #44
Knud Pedersen DENMARK
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Is it only necessary to dial the “Top side” / “top surface” on the Fan ?

I have some vibrations on my Extreme – and I only dial “inside the fan” where the uniball is going to be placed……is that wrong?

How much is 1/3 thou in metric?
:?:

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Old 09-23-2005, 07:54 AM   #45
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Knud,
That is how I dial indicate the fans. I put the pointer of the indicator on the inside of the hub where the uniball is seated. I don't see how dial indicating the top side of the fan will tell you if the fan is running true. It will only tell that the top is level.

You can dial indicate the outside edge of the fan hub or inside the hub where the uniball rides. That is the only two places I will check the run out.

http://www.projects.ex.ac.uk/trol/scol/index.htm

The above site is great for quick conversions.

0.003 = 0.0762 mm if that is what your looking for.

David
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Old 09-23-2005, 08:40 AM   #46
Knud Pedersen DENMARK
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Hi DavidH
Thanks for the quick answer!!!!

I will now remove my engine, mount the HD clutch, dial the fan (Inside where the uniball comes), mount a new crone gear (without the brass tube)

PS:
IS it possible the get at better “running” Fan, if it already ones have been mounted??
:?:

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Old 02-03-2006, 04:31 PM   #47
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1/3 thou = 0,003 ?????
Don't think so, this is 3 thou right?

1 thou = 0,001 = 0.025 4 mm

1/3 thou = 0,000333333... = 0.008 47 mm or 8,5 micrometer

Greetz,

Marc
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Old 02-03-2006, 04:42 PM   #48
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Conversion calculator will help you out.

http://www.projects.ex.ac.uk/trol/scol/ccleng.htm


David
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Old 02-04-2006, 03:32 AM   #49
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David,

I was only stating that 1/3 thou is NOT 0.003. because 0.003 = 3 thou(sends) of an inch

the info in my reply is derived from the website you mention. Only the assumption that 1/3 thou = 0.003 I tried to counter.

Greetz,

Marc
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Old 04-26-2006, 02:13 PM   #50
MichaelT1960
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Default Fan face parallel to clutch driver?

How is this easily done?
When I insert the pins into the clutch driver the urathane isolators are forced out of their slots and interfere with the spacer! Should the isolators be cut down so that this doesn't happen?

Also it is not all that easy to square up the fan face plate with the clutch driver....especially left to right. I have the shims in my Fury Expert 60's motor mount and I believe I am not suppose to use them...but then it is way off.

Michael
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Old 07-26-2006, 11:55 AM   #51
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A couple of rules for putting a motor in a Fury:

1. Shim as needed. No matter what it's SUPPOSED to need, give it what it DOES need.

2. Enlarge the holes in the engine lugs a few number drill sizes. You'll often need this wiggle room to get the engine to align in the left/right orientation.

Michael, if you have a newer style fan into which the dampers will basically just slide in and are using the heavy duty dampers versus the older soft ones, they will not come up out of the slots at all. Do you understand what I mean about old versus new fan?

Ben Minor
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Old 11-28-2006, 02:58 PM   #52
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Howdy Folks... I had a few minuets today and thought I'd post some pictures and video of the mounting of my MA fan. It's a post I've been meaning to send for some time now and since I was doing the OS SZ today it seemed like a good time. Those that have followed this thread will see that it is basically the steps recommended in the first post by David and Ben.

The mounting of the engine and the indicator are a little different than some have posted but the idea is the same. That is, you need to mount the engine/fan on the same "plate" as the indicator.

I use a "bottom" collet on both ends. That's the big hole collet. If you use the "top" collet from MA you will need to make sure the stepped part of the collet isn't too tight on the shaft. Since we are trying to shift the fan/collet slightly as we tighten it, it is very difficult to get things perfect if the top collet is too tight to move.




--------------------------------------------------

Fan Balance........

The fan balancing unit is really a car tire balancer. Trinity sells it (or did). There are many other choices. This one works for me.

Here is the dude mounted up.



Here is how I balance.



This a link to YouTube with a quick spin.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GN7zl_LvT0E

A word of caution... Be sure to mount and un-mount your fan several time and in several different positions. If the heavy side changes every time you re-mount your fan, you've got a mounting problem, not a balance problem. Your setup should be repeatable.

Also, cleanliness is next to Godliness. I use the collets when mounting the fan on the balancer. A piece of grit or dust between the collets and the fan and you will be mounting the fan off center. Your fan will be perfectly balanced when badly mounted! You will also spend a lifetime trying to indicate the run-out.

----------------------------------------------------

Fan run-out.....

Here is a picture of my setup and where to touch. Since this is where the Uni-Ball rides and where the clutch driver will be centered, I use this area. Theoretically the face of the fan should work if MA has made the face of the fan perfectly square to the hole. I'm told either surface works.



If your fan has been used (and this one has) be sure and avoid the place where the Uni-Ball rides. There should be a little area just above where the Uni-Ball rides and the top of the fan you can touch.

Again, CLEANLINESS COUNTS! Since we are trying to get under .001" of an inch, a small piece of dust where you touch will cause problems. I use some carb cleaner and really clean the fan well before going any further.

The actual indicating process is just as originally posted by David and Ben... SMALL taps to center the fan and a little tightening. Repeat.

Since there is some confusion over where to tap, here is a picture. I tap the end of the wood block with a small hammer.



The engineers in the group will quickly note that I don't make much effort to avoid applying loads to the bearings when tapping the fan true. Since the taping is very light and since the taping is parallel to the axis of the crank, I don't think it's loading the bearing enough to cause damage. Over the years I haven't had any problems.

Here is small vid of the work.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3AKA76qGvQ



--------------------------


Hope this helps,

Bill Vail
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Old 11-29-2006, 07:57 AM   #53
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Bill,
Thanks for the video. Very informative and helpful.

David
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Old 11-30-2006, 10:47 AM   #54
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Thanks David... I'm sure each has their own way but this works for me. Really it's just a repost of what you and Ben came up with.

Bill
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Old 12-04-2006, 10:36 AM   #55
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Thank you for sharing..
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Old 12-09-2006, 01:20 PM   #56
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Thanks for this information. I will try it today!
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Old 12-11-2006, 07:43 PM   #57
wjvail
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ghostrider
Thanks for this information. I will try it today!
Ghostrider...

What luck did you have?

Bill
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Old 12-11-2006, 08:41 PM   #58
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Could not find a dial indicator locally so I had to order one. I just got home from work and here it is. TONIGHT I will try it and post my outcome.

Thanks again,

Sam
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Old 01-11-2007, 07:23 PM   #59
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http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...il_Store_ID=14


If your located in Alpine that is close to San Diego. That HF store above is only like 15 miles away.

If your at the Alpine up in the northern part of CA.
Here is list of HF stores in CA. Surely there is one within reasonable distance.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta..._stores.taf#CA

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Old 01-11-2007, 07:32 PM   #60
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Quote:
If your located in Alpine that is close to San Diego. That HF store above is only like 15 miles away.
I know, I found that out after I ordered it
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