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Old 06-10-2009, 05:18 AM   #1
helicraze
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Default Things you should know about your Logo

Please make this a sticky, I think most will find it useful.

Common things worth knowing:

-Logo 600 is 14MM root, use 1MM spacer either side of blade. The older kits it was hard to tell as the grips were sorta squashed from manufacturing process, they now come parrallel and easy to get spacers in.

-Logo 400/500/600 older swash are 2.5MM balls, newer ones 3MM

-Logo 400/500/600 stock thrusted tail can fail with 105MM tails and even smaller, recommend quick uk tail (mikado or trex one, only balls are different)

-Drive pulley for tail, there is a revised one much beefier where the pin sits, has been around for over 1 year

-Logo 600 Belt needs to be tight, if you look side on at rear tail case and press with little pinky from underneath, if it comes halfway to the tail arm bracket (silver piece) its tight enough.

-Logo 600 if you want to run the pyro 30-12 motor, you need the other mikado motor mount due to different bolt spacing.

-Logo 600 comes stock with 3092 extra hard dampers and hardened main shaft

-Logo 600 check you have long shank bolts for the main rotor grips that go all the way through, newer kits have this

-Logo 600 both flybar and VBAR I recommend replacing jesus bolt with long shank one, a M3X35MM trimmed down is perfect for VBAR head, for flybar head a raptor 30-50 jesus bolt trimmed down 2MM will be perfect.

-Logo 600, there is 2 types of flybar clamps, 1 is just a normal clamp on the flybar cage (old one) the new flybar cage where the bottom pieces bolt on have a flat spot on them to match the flat spot on the flybar, this way the flybar cannot rotate in flight.

-Logo 500 standard main shaft is NOT hardened (black color), recommend to replace with hardened main shaft otherwise the auto hub will put marks in it and make it hard to remove the shaft when i needs replacing.

-Logo 500 tail shaft standard is NOT hardened (black color) and most of the time will not allow the tail bushing to slide on easily, sand off the black coating and apply oil once done.

-Logo 600 VBAR link lengths are 65MM not 60MM standard (the main ones to the grip), it can be confusing when you need to order spares as the manual lists 2 types on the VBAR head, they supply 65MM standard.

-Logo 400/500/600 skids use nylon bolts to protect the frame in a crash, you can trim M3 nylon bolts to about 12MM and use the standard nuts.

-Logo 400 flybar kit has plastic swash and lots of bushings etc, the VBAR kit comes with all the options same as the 3D type kits.

-Logo 500 recommend using .7mod gear, its stronger than .5mod.

-Logo 600 or 700 conversions use mod 1 main gear as with high power setups you may strip it

-Logo 600 skids, the older ones did not have grub screws to secure the pipes, newer ones do, otherwise drill a small hole in 4 spots and use tiny screws to secure them.

-Logo 600, 2 full turns out on elevator link is need to make it level with arms at 90

-Logo 500/600 M2.5MM bolts for main shaft bearings are slightly short, get longer ones or drop of glue in on the nylock

-Logo 500/600 canopies have precut cooling holes now.

-Logo 500/600 easy ESD mod, look on the right side of the frame where the boom clamp piece is, there is 2 small holes, get a small screw long enough and screw down on a lug with wire, run the wire to the - of your receiver lead.

-Jive BEC is independant of ESC even though its internal, its perfectly capable to run 8717 or BLS451 servos and VBAR. Also if its flashing rapidly and continous after a flight that means you are reaching the jives limits, spikes of 240A!

-VBAR users, the sensor lead is not as tight as many want, get some thin double sided tape and stick it under the connector and plug, so it looks like an L side on.

-Logo 500/600 how to make you canopy wrap around nice at the rear
Tip to make your logo 500/600 canopy sit right - HeliFreak


-Logo 700 conversions some info:

To run 690MM rotors and 105MM tails (no bigger) you need 770XL belt and raptor 90 boom, the 788 belt and vario carbon boom can be done so you can fit 710's is a pain as the 788XL belt is no longer supplied by mikado, so for simplicity use the raptor 90 boom and 770XL belt.

All you need is:
-4MM OD hollow carbon rod length cut to 753MM
-raptor 90 boom (cut to 804MM long)
-770XL belt (otherwise known as 385XL), 77inch circumference. SDP is the supplier in the US, PN: A 6R 3-385025
-690MM rotors (radix work well), use the spacers as its 14MM grip, use 1MM spacer either side of rotor root.
-105MM tail rotors i use radix
-Scorpion 4035 560KV motor and 16T pinion or 630KV motor and 15T pinion (both need 6MM pinion .7mod), also scorp motors need flat spot filed on it. 4035 are designed for 90 size Ships. (630KV motor is more powerfull, less bog on 10S). Or mod 1 11T with 560KV motor and 30C lipos works well.
-ESC, many will work, i use the Jive 80+ HV with heatsink also did use the Thunder Tiger ace 65A ESC in gov mode at 85% thr and outrage 10S 4200MAH 25C packs, balances perfect same as 600 does, pack sit in same spot, although i use a huge heatsink thermal glued on. Now running 10S 4500MAH 30C vplus lipos, balances perfect with the pack all the way to the rear of the frame. Removed the horizontal fin.
-Also if you have an older kit buy some 4MM hardened steel cap screws (for the main rotor blades) with longer shank (M4X45MM, 23MM shank, trim to length) and the stock ones may bend (even if you have 600) you will have to trim the length of them.
-Get shanked jesus bolt (stock one is normal M3 full threaded), M3X35MM trimmed down for VBAR head
-Upgraded tail hub from quick UK is an option, recommended as there have been some reports of failures on the stock plastic grips. Quick uk now have one that bolts straight on logo 500/600 etc.

Please do not run over 2100RPM like i did for a while, it threw blade! I now run 2050RPM and its great with VBAR V4! Very fast.


I will add if i think of more stuff.

Edit: Rick 5/11/12 - Logo 400SE requires the addition of static grounding straps

Last edited by rdlohr; 05-11-2012 at 04:55 PM.. Reason: Added Logo 400 SE grounding
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Old 06-10-2009, 08:06 AM   #2
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Hi HC,

That's a great list. Thanks for putting it together.

Just found out about the belt on the 600 needing to be tight last night. I thought my autorotation clutch was locking up. Turns out my belt was loose enough for the teeth on my belt to lock up. I'm lucky it didn't eject out the rear of the boom during flight.

Thanks again,
LJS
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Logo 600 VBar, X4030-560, 12T, 10S 4500, Jive 80HV, 8717s/8900g, WR5A, GB 620s
TRex 600E VBar, X4025-830, 17T, 8S 4200, Jazz 55-10-32, BLS451s/BLS251, WR5A, RT 600s
Logo 500 VBar, S4025-1100, 16T, 6S 5000, Jive 100LV, 9452s/8900g, WR5A, SAB 550s
TRex 600ESP (auto special), S4025-1100, 16T, 6S 5000, Jazz 80-6-18, DS610s/DS620, DS760, WR5A, HD600s
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Old 06-10-2009, 09:34 AM   #3
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Default Great Information

After seeing the flight performance of these machines I am definitely going to get one.

This is all great info that I will use

Much appreciated

Now where do you get the mikado parts and kits?
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:55 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HBMIKOTBL View Post
After seeing the flight performance of these machines I am definitely going to get one.

This is all great info that I will use

Much appreciated

Now where do you get the mikado parts and kits?
readyheli.com
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:20 PM   #5
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Is it needed to pin the boom like with an trex600?

The link lengths for the Vbar, 65mm instead of 60. Gives you less resolution but more throw?

Thanks for the list, really helpful for a mikado noob
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:36 PM   #6
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Default Mikado

I have been looking at logo stuff all day and it appears these are pretty expensive to repair? and to buy ?

why is that? they are all plastic and do not appear to have any real "bling" parts so I am wondering why the prices are so high?

I understand performance comes with a price but usually there is a justified reason like the parts are machined etc. ...I see no reason why the expensive parts and kits?

is there something I am missing here?

there doesn't appear to be any "upgrades" for these helicopters either . which is strange considering every other helicopter out there seems to have a gigantic list of upgrade parts available
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
I have been looking at logo stuff all day and it appears these are pretty expensive to repair? and to buy ?

why is that? they are all plastic and do not appear to have any real "bling" parts so I am wondering why the prices are so high?

I understand performance comes with a price but usually there is a justified reason like the parts are machined etc. ...I see no reason why the expensive parts and kits?

is there something I am missing here?

there doesn't appear to be any "upgrades" for these helicopters either . which is strange considering every other helicopter out there seems to have a gigantic list of upgrade parts available
There is plastic in this world, then there is Mikado plastic, its not like anything you seen

Its fiber injected plastic.

We (me and many others) have > 500 flights on a machine, replaced nothing except wear parts (dampers, thrust bearings), no other "plastic" will take that.
I saw over at RR that Kyle Dahl had 617 flights on his because of heavy practice...
They just work, and why upgrade then...
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:51 PM   #8
M.Huerta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HBMIKOTBL View Post
I have been looking at logo stuff all day and it appears these are pretty expensive to repair? and to buy ?

why is that? they are all plastic and do not appear to have any real "bling" parts so I am wondering why the prices are so high?

I understand performance comes with a price but usually there is a justified reason like the parts are machined etc. ...I see no reason why the expensive parts and kits?

is there something I am missing here?

there doesn't appear to be any "upgrades" for these helicopters either . which is strange considering every other helicopter out there seems to have a gigantic list of upgrade parts available
mikados dont need "bling" in fact after looking at my mikado and so many other mikados I realize that they would look so stupid with bling(and I have seen them with all silver alu. heads and they make the heli look so ugly), and the frames are awesome looking as they are, you dont need CF and Aluminum to have a good flying heli and also the canopies are way better looking than Align or any other company, shape and quality
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Old 06-10-2009, 12:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synx666 View Post
Is it needed to pin the boom like with an trex600?

The link lengths for the Vbar, 65mm instead of 60. Gives you less resolution but more throw?

Thanks for the list, really helpful for a mikado noob
no you do not need to pin the boom, as logos use a belt drive unlike the T-rex 600 which has a torque tube that needed to be pinned
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Old 06-10-2009, 01:07 PM   #10
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Thats true, stupid me haha! Saves some work
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Old 06-10-2009, 01:15 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HBMIKOTBL View Post

is there something I am missing here?
Yes !
We can tell you all about the numerous advantages of these machines, but you just won't understand until you build and fly one.
They're well worth the money, I'd own one mikado rather than three align machines.

Something that's really crazy is mikado's molded plastic parts have much tighter tolerances than align's alloy parts.

Regards,
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Old 06-10-2009, 01:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Huerta View Post
no you do not need to pin the boom, as logos use a belt drive unlike the T-rex 600 which has a torque tube that needed to be pinned
well......you don't have to "pin" the boom...but it is a good idea to put a screw through the back part of the frame and into the boom...even though this is a belt drive..if the boom slides forward you are screwed...you will lose the tail.

There is one area on the back part of the frame that is perfect for this..

I agree about the Mikado plastic as well...iti s very strong and works well.

No bling necessary...But I personally like the metal heads on my logos

But I won't talk about them

It's taboo to put anything NON mikado on a logo
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Old 06-10-2009, 02:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NTM View Post
Yes !
We can tell you all about the numerous advantages of these machines, but you just won't understand until you build and fly one.
They're well worth the money, I'd own one mikado rather than three align machines.

Something that's really crazy is mikado's molded plastic parts have much tighter tolerances than align's alloy parts.

Regards,
Nathan
+1 I got my mikado heli for free(logo 10) for volunteering at an event before I even knew how to fly helis and I built it a couple days after I got it without knowing a single thing about RC helis and it was ssssooo easy! the instructions are incredible!!! and the fit of all the parts was also amazing, now after building and flying the logo I frown at the parts quality and fit and flight charactaristics of my blade 400 and gaui 200
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Old 06-10-2009, 02:39 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M.Huerta View Post
+1 I got my mikado heli for free(logo 10) for volunteering at an event before I even knew how to fly helis and I built it a couple days after I got it without knowing a single thing about RC helis and it was ssssooo easy! the instructions are incredible!!! and the fit of all the parts was also amazing, now after building and flying the logo I frown at the parts quality and fit and flight charactaristics of my blade 400 and gaui 200
No offense man...but if you are comparing the performance of the logo to the blade 400 and Gaui 200...it's no surpise that you think the logos are the best thing going

Those aren't exactly the best machines out there ...even the align machines can beat those
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Old 06-10-2009, 03:39 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Jag72 View Post
No offense man...but if you are comparing the performance of the logo to the blade 400 and Gaui 200...it's no surpise that you think the logos are the best thing going

Those aren't exactly the best machines out there ...even the align machines can beat those
yeah man I understand I dont know why I put flight char. in there I mainly meant parts and build quality, but yeah I was mainly comparing it to the other helis thah I have ever flown and owned, so yeah, no offense taken.
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Old 06-10-2009, 04:17 PM   #16
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It's hard to realize what all the hubub with Mikado is until you get your see and get your hands on one. Fly one and there's a good chance your CC will be coming out.
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Old 06-10-2009, 04:36 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helicraze View Post
Please make this a sticky, I think most will find it useful.

Common things worth knowing:

-Logo 600 is 14MM root, use 1MM spacer either side of blade. The older kits it was hard to tell as the grips were sorta squashed from manufacturing process, they now come parrallel and easy to get spacers in.

-Logo 400/500/600 older swash are 2.5MM balls, newer ones 3MM

-Logo 400/500/600 stock thrusted tail can fail with 105MM tails and even smaller, recommend quick uk tail (mikado or trex one, only balls are different)

-Drive pulley for tail, there is a revised one much beefier where the pin sits, has been around for over 1 year

-Logo 600 Belt needs to be tight, if you look side on at rear tail case and press with little pinky from underneath, if it comes halfway to the tail arm bracket (silver piece) its tight enough.

-Logo 600 if you want to run the pyro 30-12 motor, you need the other mikado motor mount due to different bolt spacing.

-Logo 600 comes stock with 3092 extra hard dampers and hardened main shaft

-Logo 600 check you have long shank bolts that go all the way through, newer kits have this

-Logo 600 both flybar and VBAR recommend replacing jesus bolt with long shank one, a M3X35MM trimmed down is perfect for VBAR head, for flybar head a raptor 30-50 jesus bolt trimmed down 2MM will be perfect.

-Logo 600, there is 2 types of flybar clamps, 1 is just a normal clamp on the flybar cage (old one) the new flybar cage where the bottom pieces bolt on have a flat spot on them to match the flat spot on the flybar, this way the flybar cannot rotate in flight.

-Logo 500 standard main shaft is NOT hardened (black color), recommend to replace with hardened main shaft otherwise the auto hub will put marks in it and make it hard to remove the shaft when i needs replacing.

-Logo 500 tail shaft standard is NOT hardened (black color) and most of the time will not allow the tail bushing to slide on easily, sand off the black coating and apply oil once done.

-Logo 600 VBAR link lengths are 65MM not 60MM standard (the main ones to the grip)

-Logo 400/500/600 skids use nylon bolts to protect the frame in a crash, you can trim M3 nylon bolts to about 12MM and use the standard nuts

-Logo 500 recommend using .7mod gear, its stronger than .5mod.

-Logo 600 or 700 conversions use mod 1 main gear as with high power setups you may strip it

-Logo 600 skids, the older ones did not have grub screws to secure the pipes, newer ones do, otherwise drill a small hole in 4 spots and use tiny screws to secure them.

-Logo 600, 2 full turns out on elevator link is need to make it level with arms at 90

-Logo 500/600 M2.5MM bolts for main shaft bearings are slightly short, get longer ones or drop of glue in on the nylock

-Logo 500/600 canopies have precut cooling holes now.

-Logo 500/600 easy ESD mod, look on the right side of the frame where the boom clamp piece is, there is 2 small holes, get a small screw long enough and screw down on a lug with wire, run the wire to the - of your receiver lead.

-Jive BEC is independant of ESC even though its internal, its perfectly capable to run 8717 or BLS451 servos and VBAR. Also if its flashing rapidly and continous after a flight that means you are reaching the jives limits, spikes of 240A!

-VBAR users, the sensor lead is not as tight as many want, get some thin double sided tape and stick it under the connector and plug, so it looks like an L side on.

-Logo 500/600 how to make you canopy wrap around nice at the rear
Tip to make your logo 500/600 canopy sit right - HeliFreak



I will add if i think of more stuff.
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Old 06-10-2009, 07:14 PM   #18
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Can you please add what dampers the stock 500 V-bar head comes with? It lists both the 3092's and 2756's in the instructions, but does not specify which come with the head.
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Old 06-10-2009, 07:16 PM   #19
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I can only assume 3092 but not sure, if someone can confirm i will add it to the list.
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Old 06-10-2009, 07:23 PM   #20
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Anyone feel free to let me know anything good to add.
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