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Old 03-26-2010, 02:17 PM   #1
darwin316
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Default Blade SR Head Setup Question

I'm trying to rebuild the head on the SR and binding it with my dx6i, but I wanted to verify a couple of steps first.

Here is what I am planning on doing:
-Program the dx6i to have the throttle and pitch: 0, 25, 50, 75, 100
-At 50% throttle (midpoint), I will center the rotor head on the center hub by adjusting the servo linkages so that the rotor head will get full travel movement without hitting the stops of the center hub. (I dont think people check for this, which might cause the servos to put extra stress on the swash plate and separate them)
-Back at 50% throttle, I will adjust the pitch linkages to get 0 degrees pitch.
-I think this would give me equal negative and positive pitch. Then again, this is my first time on a CCP heli so I might be completely wrong

Any thoughts?

I see that some here just use other people's setup on their dx6i, but that might not work if there head setup is different. Throttle might work but the pitch curves might be off since we're getting SRs with different head/swash setup straight from the factory
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Old 03-26-2010, 04:24 PM   #2
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That is about what I did, I have others so when I decided to bind it to my DX6i I found the swash required leveling and recentering (a bit) and then a turn or two to get pitch where I wanted it.

I did notice that my swash settings in the swash menu is at 80 to get a 7 degree movement and at 50 for pitch to be around 10~11 degrees +/- so this little heli has a lot more pitch range than you might think.
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Old 03-26-2010, 07:17 PM   #3
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I agree with your settings for Idle Up. You may want to rethink them for Normal mode. Check out Finless' videos on CCPM set up on this forum. I have two of the SR's. I am leaving one stock and then setting the other up just like my Align 500 ESP.
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Old 03-26-2010, 09:36 PM   #4
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I wouldn't have a linear setup on throttle and pitch both. I'd flatten my throttle curve out above half stick. I think I currently have mine at about 80% on my DX6i at 3 and 4 (5 at 100 I think but I never get there). This give pitch the control and maintains head speed....also allows better tail hold. I have my gyro set for 74 and 68, this accommodates my different size/weight batteries I use.

But, what you have is a good start, adjust and find what you like (we're all different). But make small adjusts and fly, repeat.
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Old 03-26-2010, 09:59 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies guys...

I wasn't trying to run a normal linear throttle or pitch curve. This was more about setting up the head first (servo travel relative to the rotor hub/center).

I did setup the normal throttle curve as follows:
L - 0%
2 - 45%
3 - 60%
4 - 75%
H - 100%

Here is my pitch curve (as measured with a pitch gauge)
L - 46.5% (+1 deg)
2 - 49% (+2 deg)
3 - 56% (+3 deg)
4 - 65 (+5 deg)
H - 100 (+12 deg)

I might adjust the throttle curve to see if i'm satisfied with the headspeed.
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Old 03-27-2010, 12:01 AM   #6
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I just got through setting up my SR on my Dx7. I completely took the head down to the swash and started there. My swash is now level, It was not before, tilted to the front and the right from the rear of the heli. Reassembled the rest of the head and set the pitch at 0 at 50% throttle. I adjusted the swash mix and I have +/- 10 on the pitch and +/- 5 on aileron and elevator. In Normal mode I adjusted my pitch curve for -2 at 0 throttle and the settings are at 39, 44.5, 50, 75, 100 (your settings may very). My throttle curve is 0, 50, 80, 90, 100. For Idle Up/ ST1 and ST2, I am at 100, 95, 90, 95, 100 with a linear pitch curve of 0, 25, 50, 75, 100. When switching to Idle Up at mid stick, I shouldn't have any issues as the pitch curves match. Head speed will increase though. A word of caution, I have not flown yet with these settings. This is my SR to crash if it is wrong and I have crashed it plenty of times.
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Old 03-27-2010, 06:37 AM   #7
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I did similar, it took hours! First I set all the servo horns level, subtrimmed. Thenadjusted servo linkages to find the swash midpoint where I got full pitch throws up and down and at 50% it settled in the middle! Then levelled out the swash. To get pitch correct the adjustable short links for the pitch are bottomed out (screwed in all the way) to each other. I have 0 pitch at mid stick and +10/-10. Flys MUCH better than on the stock TX.
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Old 03-27-2010, 07:24 AM   #8
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It took a while for me as well. Getting the servos to move the direction that they are supposed to took the longest. My Aileron and Pitch are reversed and the Swash Pitch is negative vs positive for Aileron and Elevator. I am still relative new at programing so this may not be the most elegant solution, but it works. I won't be able to fly until next week. Traveling on business. Oh well.
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Old 03-27-2010, 07:26 AM   #9
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When doing your set up, you need to make sure you have your servo arms a 90% at mid stick before you adjust anything else. If you do not, the travel of the arm will be more in one direction than another. You can go into idle up and set your pitch at 50% straight accross to make it easy.... unplug your motors. After your servo arms are at 90, use sub trim or take the arm off and reset it, adjust your linkages to level your swash plate and then adjust your blades to zero pitch at 50% stick.... then be sure to reset you pitch curve. In your test hovers, if you require a trim adjustment, readjust you linkages so that you will have zero trim on the tx. This might take a while.
In idle up, I am using 90 and 100% flat throttle curves on a DX 7.... 2 ide up's The old V or U shaped curves are more for nitro heli's than electrics. There are 2 reasons for flat curves. Your esc will run cooler at 100% because the motor is using all the juice. If you are less than that, the esc desipates the extra juice it is not using as heat.... which is not good. 2nd, you do not want your motor to lag if you punch in more pitch. J
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Old 03-27-2010, 04:18 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Shipley View Post
When doing your set up, you need to make sure you have your servo arms a 90% at mid stick before you adjust anything else.
thanks for the reminder... i did use subtrim to center the servo arms at 90 degrees... forgot to mention that.

This is what I did:

At mid-stick:
-centered the servo arms at 90 deg. to the linkages/shaft (used subtrim on dx6i)
-leveled the swashplate to the main gear to get a base reference.
-adjusted the servo linkages together in order to get full travel of the rotor head on the center hub (at mid-stick, the rotor head is at the midpoint of the center hub)
-adjusted the pitch linkages to get zero pitch at mid-stick

I then adjusted the normal pitch curve to be at +1,+2,+3,+5,+12 (all positive since i'm still new to ccp)

I have the cyclic range set at 5 degrees in the swash mix.

I like how it flew with these settings.

I still need to find the sweet spot on the remote gyro gain... I'm at 63% and the tail is still wagging. Maybe because there is a 30 degree change from my living room to the outside right now
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Old 03-27-2010, 04:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darwin316 View Post
At mid-stick:
-centered the servo arms at 90 deg. to the linkages/shaft (used subtrim on dx6i)
-leveled the swashplate to the main gear to get a base reference.
-adjusted the servo linkages together in order to get full travel of the rotor head on the center hub (at mid-stick, the rotor head is at the midpoint of the center hub)
-adjusted the pitch linkages to get zero pitch at mid-stick

This is very useful info for a n00b when it comes to fine tuning everything. Thank you!!
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:17 PM   #12
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I have my gyro set a 73, rudder travel at 95% and rudder expo at 15%, with a DX 7. The travel and the expo soften the gyro response and also help when you are using the throttle when going from negitive to positive pitch.... if you are only slight off, you are giving rudder input. (which would cause your heli to flip around whle inverted) Expo helps with that.Remember you are dealing with a motor on the tail and not a tail that can change pitch. What this means is your tail motor only turns in one direction and only pushes your tail in one direction.... nose to the right. So you can get a wag with to low a gyro setting and too high. When it is to low, it will wag because the gyro turns on the motor, turns the heli to the right, shuts off, the torque of the motor returns the heli to the left and the gyro turns back on repeating the cycle. When it is just right, it is more of a constant signal to the motor.... and of course if it is too much gyro, it does the same thing as not enough, but faster.
I had my SR out yesterday and gave it a workout with flips, funnels, huricanes and inverted punch outs. I was happily surprised to find the gyro held very well....... that tail motor sounded like a very angry hornet..... J
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:18 PM   #13
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Lightbulb Finless is great

As far as a CP heli: I am not smarter than ya'll..I am a noob. Was watching and righting down Finless video's on blade tracking..got it, balancing..cool, and ball links. Tell me I'm worried about nothin. He said that you never turn a ball link a 1/2 turn, and that they have a front and a back. Also he turned me on to sizing. E-Flight says turn 1/2 turn..are these links universal ? Finless said that on CP heli's 1 turn on servo link is equal to 1/2 turn on top link. If 1 turn on top is too much then put it back and turn bottom 1 turn. Whew... Dave..Hey, John, I like the way the tail sounds..you nailed it !!
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:31 PM   #14
John Shipley
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This is a great question about ball links. I had actually built quite a few heli's when I got to meet Finless and attend one of his classes. Many heli's have a one side out link, Align is one. I had built 6 heli's wrong and had to rebuild them. I don't think e-flight, at least the cp's has that issue. The reason one side is smaller is so the link will not go completly over the ball. Also Align heli's have more links and more points of adjustment. On align, the "A" faces out.
So if in doubt, look at your link and one side will have a smaller hole, that side is the outside.
Watch as many of Finless's video's as you can. Afer you understand how to set up a heli correctly, you'll be amazed at how much better they fly. I keep my down loads of his vids on their own external hard drive.... to watch anytime I want. BTW, the lower link on a cp or sr is not adjustable.... servo links are....J
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:46 PM   #15
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Cool da middle

I missed typed or you missunderstood. I meant the flybar link and the servo link. the middle has no adjustment, the ones that the grip cage link to, the top part of swash.. Dave..thanks ..my wife says I look like I'm in college studying all the time, hey ?
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Old 03-27-2010, 05:56 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Shipley View Post
The reason one side is smaller is so the link will not go completly over the ball.

I had this problem all the time with my mSR... so I'm guessing that e-flite is not one of the companies that designs their linkage that way?
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Old 03-27-2010, 06:12 PM   #17
John Shipley
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E-flite does not have a "right" side on either their adjustable or non adjustable links. Align, the t-rex family, has a "right" side on both the adjustable and non adjustable links.... "a" faces out.
I was spending so much time on the lap top, my wife came over to take a look....just to make sure I was really on a heli site....J
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Old 03-27-2010, 06:15 PM   #18
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Good to know, thanks!
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Old 03-27-2010, 06:16 PM   #19
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Cool sad but true

mine says, no way it's heli's all day ! well as ya'll know..... hey Sean, saw your location.. I have family from Portland here, their in shorts and are loving the sun. Be on tour side of the map soon..Dave

Last edited by Skyranger; 03-27-2010 at 06:19 PM.. Reason: info +
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Old 03-27-2010, 06:36 PM   #20
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Cool, PM sometime and maybe we can meet up for some heli action.
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