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Old 07-15-2010, 11:54 PM   #1
jaydekay
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Default Head Dampers, Shims and Step Washers

I've tried a few different options ("bearing mod", "5 shims, 1 Step Washer", etc), and for me I've finally found a combo that provides good dampening and holds up well and doesn't leave you with shredded dampers.

This is what I'm rolling with.
  • Trex 450 Dampers (I'm actually using the cylinder shaped ones, not the o-rings - either may work well, but I can speak for the cylinder ones)
  • 2 Step washers
  • 3 Spacers
Order:

[main shaft] [damper] [step washer] [3 spacers] [step washer] - > [blade grip etc..]

My reasoning for doing this is as follows.

  1. The "bearing mod" provides no dampening - which was not ideal. It was a band-aid at the time.
  2. "5 shims and 1 step washer with the Trex dampers" works, but still left me with shredded dampers. This was happening because the shims would press up against the damper and slice them like little cutting discs. I've found that by having a step washer pressed up against the damper, its protected, and the step washers are thick enough that they wont slice up the damper. In my setup, I have the "step" side facing the damper. This keeps the shims in good shape as they have a flat 'back' of the step washer to press up against.
So - these are my findings and what has worked the best by far for me, and I thought I'd share the info. Changing out those dampers all the time is kind of annoying, and if you leave them in while their shredded, they lose their consistency which can cause your tracking to get out of whack.

So far, I've had really good luck with this setup - if anything changes, I'll post back.

Hope this helps!
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Old 07-15-2010, 11:58 PM   #2
SeanM
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+1 This is exactly how I have mine setup. I reccomended this awhile back when everyone was on the topic regarding how much friction you want in your flybar, but I think everyone was under the impression that your goal should be zero friction... which is not true. You can have a certain amount of friction in your flybar's movement before it begins to effect flight performance.
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Old 07-16-2010, 11:21 AM   #3
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I just purchased o-rings from McMaster-Carr based on the stock o-ring size but in stiffer material. The 70 durometer was harder than the stock (I bet stock is 50 durometer or softer) the extra hard (90 durometer) might be the best bet. You can get 100 for about $2, so the price is right. I plan on trying them out this weekend so I can compare to the Trex 450 dampers I am currently using. They were $5 for 4!
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Old 07-16-2010, 11:30 AM   #4
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Do you guys have a product number or web link for these cylindrical ones or the stiffer one sanddan mentions? I didn't know they even existed! I have a lot more step washers than shims, so it would be a good changeover for me. BTW, I'm expecting some CF blades today or tomorrow (HDX), can't wait to give them a try.
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Old 07-16-2010, 08:29 PM   #5
bdbrown4764
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Are these the cylindrical dampers you speak of...

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ead-Dampners-4
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Old 07-16-2010, 08:32 PM   #6
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Yes'm, dems thoze.
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Old 07-16-2010, 08:45 PM   #7
madcaprym
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Default Just dont know?

hey I tried the two step washers and my heli went into the WOBBLE/Shake of death. If you guys are doing it successfuly, it must be something im doing?
This is the order
: main shaft, dampener( OEM O ring), step washer(facing the dampener), two shims, step washer, and blade grip, etc.
Maybe the key is the TREX dampener??
It was also really tight when i turned the feather shaft to test it for being bent.
I finally ended up getting rid of the violent shaking by using the regular set up, but now im left with movement.
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:30 PM   #8
Luvlite
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mojappa View Post
Yes'm, dems thoze.
Aren't the dampeners for the trex 450 v2 head 4mm instead of 3mm?
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:34 PM   #9
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Oops, they may be, as it loaded I saw the word red and assumed they were so I just pressed back and responded. Should have let it load fully if those aren't the ones.
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:37 PM   #10
John Shipley
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it is the 450 V1 dampers you want. They came in two versions, o rings, 2 per side and cylinder one per side, in a 450. In a cp or sr, you only need one O ring, so you would cut the cylinder in half....which is what I do. I use Trueblood 450 V1 "reds"....cut in half. They work great and do not wear out very quickly.....J
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:47 PM   #11
Luvlite
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Maybe these? http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ead-Dampener-4

The ones I use are the black trex parts. I'm not familiar with these red ones. I think the red ones are more expensive but I don't recall exactly.
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:51 PM   #12
jaydekay
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These are the ones I'm using. They're perfect in practice if you use the setup in the OP. They require no trimming and fit flush with the edge.

The T450 o-rings, or trueblood 'double wides' (yeehaw) may work really well, too. But all I can speak for are these guys since this is what I have tried:

http://www.ehobbies.com/agnhs1266.ht...mpaign=froogle
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Old 07-16-2010, 09:53 PM   #13
jaydekay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madcaprym View Post
hey I tried the two step washers and my heli went into the WOBBLE/Shake of death. If you guys are doing it successfuly, it must be something im doing?
This is the order
: main shaft, dampener( OEM O ring), step washer(facing the dampener), two shims, step washer, and blade grip, etc.
Maybe the key is the TREX dampener??
It was also really tight when i turned the feather shaft to test it for being bent.
I finally ended up getting rid of the violent shaking by using the regular set up, but now im left with movement.
Your set up is different bro.

It could be the damper, but I would start by adding the 3rd shim as described in my OP.

For best results follow the setup I described to a T.

Good luck!
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Old 07-16-2010, 11:15 PM   #14
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Ok thanks, Ill give it a try
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Old 09-17-2010, 12:52 AM   #15
tacobueno65
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Default Another idea?

Hey Y'all,
I know this thread is a little old but thought I'd ask anyway. I experienced good results on my old CP by replacing the rubber o rings with a small section of fuel tubing. A guy at my LHS suggested it for my aluminum head and it stiffened things up pretty good yet still allowed the blade grips to swivel nicely. May not be a good setup for the stock plastic head but maybe worth a try? I seem to recall I used like 2 shims and then the normal bearing washer against the aluminum blade grip bearing.

Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks.

"taco"
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Old 09-17-2010, 06:58 AM   #16
fusionsx00
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Default head dampers

Has anyone tried polyurethane?
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Old 09-17-2010, 03:48 PM   #17
micheleamerica
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I just finished modding mine with standard #6 o-rings that are quite stiffer than the standard SR ones but had to be somewhat squeezed to get into the center hub holes.
After that i have a step washer (step against the o-ring), 5 shims and another step washer (step against the bearing).
I have only done a short hovering session but it does feel much more tight and responds in a more affirmative (if I may say so) way to stick input. Mighty please I did that mod.
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Old 10-24-2010, 11:54 AM   #18
crashhappySR
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One advantage to being a rank beginner, you can try almost anything and sometimes it works. I went to the local hardware store and purchased the smallest metric O rings available. They were slightly larger than the O Rings provided for the SR. I concocted the combination of from the center shaft out, stock O Ring, Store bought O ring, step washer, three spacers, step washer, screw. Over numerous flights and crashes the stock O rings show absolutely no wear and the copter is noticeably more stable. It may not stunt as well but you will appreciate its learner characteristics.
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Old 10-24-2010, 03:07 PM   #19
John Shipley
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I have tried the fuel hose....it works but is hard to get the feather shaft though. I have tried most of the dampers around and have been using the true blood reds for the last year. Also, there are several other brands that work, that are of the same type....J
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Old 11-15-2010, 01:26 AM   #20
photocycler
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can anyone tell me where i can find these step rings? Is it a blade part?
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