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Old 09-30-2010, 11:25 PM   #21
AtTheCross
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here you go...crash


this was a minor one, just broke the skids.

I've had two majors since then and replaced with corona 120 parts except for the main shaft, had to use the funcopter one.

here's the damage list so far
(2) tail booms
(1) main shaft
(1) swash
(1) sub rotor (the flybar)
(1) center hub

the first major crash, wasn't paying attention and it went inverted and broke all the head stuff

the second crash was just a boom

go to my website for DIY mods and fixes

www.funcoptermods.com
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Old 10-01-2010, 10:47 PM   #22
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have you had any issues with breaking the foam body? Also, what battery and blades are you using, i see they have different options and i want to be sure to order the right ones.
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Old 10-01-2010, 11:39 PM   #23
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yeah, I cracked the front part of the body, but just hot glued it back together, MPX recommends using the hotglue

I'm using stock blades and the #5 grips, I have used #6 grips from my corona 120. From what i've read, there's a issue with the description from MPX on the different blade grips available as some have order the grips only to have the single #5 grip be delivered and not the #3,#4 and #5 as described.

I have some cnc #3 that i'm going to try tomorrow
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Old 10-02-2010, 09:32 PM   #24
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put some TREX 500 skids and canopy on
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Old 10-03-2010, 06:55 AM   #25
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Looks nice. Has it mad any difference in flight characteristics? Did the installation of the skids require any effort or did they fit right on there?
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Old 10-03-2010, 11:21 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aardvark View Post
Looks nice. Has it mad any difference in flight characteristics? Did the installation of the skids require any effort or did they fit right on there?
no flight change as far as I can tell, it's mainly for clearance

pretty effortless to mod, all drilling done to the skids, instructions here
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Old 10-19-2010, 05:35 AM   #27
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nice video
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Old 10-19-2010, 05:39 PM   #28
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thanks!!!
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Old 11-05-2010, 12:29 AM   #29
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New modification.....CNC Rotor Head!!!

With permission from Ballistic Technology I was able to redesigned this rotor head for use on the Multiplex Funcopter

ALL FUNCOPTER PARTS FIT DIRECTLY ONTO THIS ROTOR HEAD.
NO MODIFICATIONS NECESSARY!!!!
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Old 06-16-2011, 03:07 PM   #30
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ATC,
i'v seen your corona with a 500hughes body.
would it be easy to do this on the FC? and a 500 size hughes body?
just have the AK kit and electrics are on their way.
i love 'em 500hughes.
thanks.
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Old 06-16-2011, 05:46 PM   #31
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should be no problem in a 500 size, if you want to stuff in a 450 class you will have to cut the frame down.

glad you got the AK, you will be happier with your own electronics

i have a 500 class md500 fuse that i just have not done anything with on the funcopter, need time
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Old 07-16-2011, 12:50 PM   #32
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I just pulled the trigger on a Funcopter from Heliproz...I like their free shipping on orders over $100. It really does sound like, er...fun!
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Old 07-16-2011, 01:07 PM   #33
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GREAT! Welcome to the club
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Old 07-24-2011, 12:59 PM   #34
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GREAT! Welcome to the club
Thanks. Got the FC last Thursday, but have only had time to hover and skid around in the garage through one pack. Sure is quiet! Mine is the RR version, and I'm trying to figure out why there is significantly more tail rotor pitch in one direction (don't remember which) than the other...it seems to have been set up this way. Also, the main blades don't move upward like they're supposed to, but I haven't had time to take them off to see what's up with that.
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Old 07-24-2011, 08:14 PM   #35
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make sure item 37 is only sticking out of item 24 (page 24 in manual) by about 1mm

the stock gyro works best without the 'sens' line connected, leave it disconnected and manually set the gyro to 100%
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Old 07-25-2011, 02:07 AM   #36
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Quote:
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make sure item 37 is only sticking out of item 24 (page 24 in manual) by about 1mm

the stock gyro works best without the 'sens' line connected, leave it disconnected and manually set the gyro to 100%
Thank you, sir...I'll disconnect the yellow line and get out my little screwdriver. Item 37 appears to be sticking out about 4, maybe 5mm, so I'll adjust that before my next flight. Thanks again.
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Old 07-25-2011, 07:11 AM   #37
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No worries get that bad boy in the air!
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Old 07-29-2011, 07:55 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AtTheCross View Post
make sure item 37 is only sticking out of item 24 (page 24 in manual) by about 1mm

the stock gyro works best without the 'sens' line connected, leave it disconnected and manually set the gyro to 100%
Hey ATC...I moved item 24 outward so that it's within 1mm from the end of item 37, but the whole thing doesn't look right now. I didn't have time to examine it closely, but does something else have to be adjusted after moving item 24? Sorry for the noob question. I'm going to spend some time on it today.

EDIT: Disregard, sir...I figured it out.
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Old 07-29-2011, 08:09 AM   #39
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Loosen both collars set your tail rotors so they are straight (no deflection) slide item 37 to let the end stick out 1-2mm lock collars in place.

You will have to adust the push rod at the servo end to allow for center servo to make the rotors have no deflection. I usually loosen the servo side push rod and then adjust the tail rotors when done tighten servo pushrod
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Old 07-30-2011, 12:17 PM   #40
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Quote:
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Loosen both collars set your tail rotors so they are straight (no deflection) slide item 37 to let the end stick out 1-2mm lock collars in place.

You will have to adust the push rod at the servo end to allow for center servo to make the rotors have no deflection. I usually loosen the servo side push rod and then adjust the tail rotors when done tighten servo pushrod
Got 'er done. Now that I'm getting around to reading the manual, I noticed another odd thing about my RR version. For some reason, the tail servo arm was centering 10-degrees aft, instead forward as the manual indicates. I don't know how important that is, but took care of it while I was adjusting things.
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