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| MA Electric IonX2, Razor and Furion Support forum |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#61 | |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
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#62 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
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Sure can!
OK, so I have centered the servo arms using the carbon pointer and lining up with the small hole on the front servo. (may look a little off, but that's just the camera angle). ![]() ![]() And with the servo links at the recommended length of 21mm (they won't go much smaller) I have the driver arms not level and a whole heap of positive pitch. ![]() If I move the swash down to get them level (zero pitch) like this. ![]() Then the servo arms are about 4mm off my centre. ![]() ![]() The only way I can make the linkages any shorter would be to grind a few mm off each end of the rods! |
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#63 |
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NERD
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tennessee, USA
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This may be a really dumb question being I do not own one....but I see the M3 bolts are not in the head block yet, do you have the 128-198 pin inserted to set the height of the head block properly with respect to the shaft?
On my other MA birds without this pin the headblock will drop past the hole, thus being too low which would cause your condition shown in pic 3.
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Norman Fun times and good friends. |
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#64 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Houston, TX
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I have a Furion 6 FBL kit and have reached the point of installing the main shaft and gears (tail rotor and main gear). I have the tail rotor gear pushed down to the bottom bearing block and the main shaft collar pushed all the way to the top against the top bearing block. This prevents the main shaft from moving up and down but the auto rotation/main gear unit has space to move up and down between the main shaft collar and the tail gear on the main shaft. Has anyone else come across this ? I don't think I should have any play in the drivetrain and there are no shims to remove the play.
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#65 | ||
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Thread Starter
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#66 | |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Champaign, Illinois
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Product Development Horizon Hobby |
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#67 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
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So no real answers here with my issue??
I'll have to turn to my friend Sherlock on this one 'when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth?' ... so... all things being equal, servos are centred correctly, servo to swash links are the recommended length, head is bolted on at the correct height.. but still the geometry is not correct. Can someone please let me know the main shaft length measured from the flat top area of the top bearing block to the top of the main shaft? I have 98.8mm.... |
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#68 |
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Does the "geometry" really matter? They are just swash driver arms.
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#69 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
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Only that they are linked to the swash height and therefore the blade holders and as they are give about 5 degrees of + pitch. So it needs straightening out. If I drop the servo arms to get it level then I'll get uneven throw from the servos.
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#70 |
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Registered Users
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Ahh.. I misunderstood your problem before.
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#71 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Champaign, Illinois
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I am kind of perplexed to hear of the issue you're having.
The swash followers are are just swash drivers, and as long as you're getting 0 degrees pitch at mid stick, you should be fine. The other option is to shorten the servo to swashplate linkages a few millimeters.
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Product Development Horizon Hobby |
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#72 |
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NERD
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tennessee, USA
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By pic number 3, even if you got it to read 0 pitch at the blades, you would have a ton of negative and far less positive travel. The swash center ball would bind, or at postive with some cyclic the swash would start binding on another part. The servo to swash links need to be shorter. Seems like the only option on your end would be to dremel a little off each end like you said.
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Norman Fun times and good friends. |
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#73 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
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My conclusion was to mechanically shorten the links. The only other very unlikely but possible explanation for this is that the main shaft is too short!! That's why I was wondering how much should be standing above the bearing block.
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#74 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Houston, TX
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Thank you dauste and bgjames111 for your quick reply. So where do you seat the pinion on the motor shaft, do you seat the pinion with the main gear pushed up, down or in the middle?
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#75 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
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Let gravity be your guide!
I don't suppose you could measure your main shaft length for me could you? Just from the top of the bearing block to top of shaft. Thanks! |
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#76 |
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NERD
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tennessee, USA
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What's a guy gotta do to get a measurement?
Dauste, if I had one man I would get that info for you pronto! Have you tried e-mailing Bobby Watts, I bet he would get it for you?
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Norman Fun times and good friends. Last edited by Thrasymedes; 10-05-2010 at 08:42 PM.. |
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#77 |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Oct 2007
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If my main shaft ever gets here I would give you a measurement. The mainshaft is all I am waiting for. It should be here tomorrow so if you do not have a reply by then I will gladly get you one.
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#78 | ||
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
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Quote:
![]() I was hoping Brian was just going to dive in the parts bin with a ruler. Quote:
I'll be shortening the links come the weekend otherwise. Have the rest of you had no problems with this? |
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#79 | |
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Registered Users
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Houston, TX
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Quote:
the approximate measurement from the top bearing block to the top of the main shaft is 98.29mm. |
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#80 |
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Registered Users
Thread Starter
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Yep, set it at the bottom. Thanks for that measurement, that is about what I have. I would be interested to see if you get the same issue once you set the head up.
![]() Last edited by dauste; 10-06-2010 at 03:46 AM.. |
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