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Old 03-23-2011, 03:26 AM   #21
kramerr
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Great videos as always, Bob. I just bought my mCPx yesterday, and it is quite the challenge to get it to hover. But, it is a lot of fun and economical to fix when crashed.
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Old 03-24-2011, 12:21 AM   #22
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Will someone direct me to the James Hadley videos Bob refers to in some of the mcpx videos? Thanks!
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Old 03-24-2011, 08:04 AM   #23
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I think he might be referring to the videos on the supplied DVD.

I opened my DX4 last night. I was quite surprised. There were 5 extra holes for switches molded in the case. You can see three of them from the outside with little plugs in them.

Well I moved my TH button over to the right hand side. Easiest thing ever. Undo the nut, pull the switch, move the plug from the right to left side, then install the switch. No need to mess around with the wiring. There is more than enough slack in the wiring for any of the switches that you could move them anywhere. You just need to lift off the circuit board to reroute them if you are moving left/right. No soldering at all. Just a dab of hot glue. For the finishing touch, I carefully lifted that TH/Bind label off and moved it to the right side also. The adhesive stayed with the label. Now it looks like it came that way from the factory.

As shown in Bob's videos, I also eliminated the ratchet effect and adjusted the spring tensions while it was open.

If you are going to travel a lot, having the mCP X with the DX4 and all the accessories in one box is very convenient. (If you flip the box inside out, it becomes a plain brown wrapper.) My only negative about the DX4 is that the curves and rates are not adjustable. Not a big deal once you get used to the mCP X.

Thank you Bob,
Joe

ps: When you open the case, note which way is forward on the antenna. There is a square tab that gets keyed forward.
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Old 03-24-2011, 10:45 AM   #24
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I also moved the idle up switch from the left front to the left top where the hold switch was before I too moved it to the right side.

Bob
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Old 03-26-2011, 06:08 AM   #25
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Thanks Bob for this guide its really helpful!
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Old 03-28-2011, 03:06 AM   #26
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Awesome videos Bob. I was laughing histerically as the guys at the field who were looking for links or lost parts. I was telling people on youtube a few weeks back to buy bags and bags of them if your going to fly them outside. They need to make them a nice neon color so you can see the darn things
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:59 AM   #27
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I just tested a fix this weekend to loosing the links. I just used a TINY dab of hot glue across the forks. WORKED GREAT! Had many crashes and links popped off but I did not loose them. I plan to do an update video showing tips like this soon.

Bob
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:54 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finless View Post
I just tested a fix this weekend to loosing the links. I just used a TINY dab of hot glue across the forks. WORKED GREAT! Had many crashes and links popped off but I did not loose them. I plan to do an update video showing tips like this soon.

Bob
Simple minds, simple fix.

That's great Bob, thanks for the idea,,,,,,,and right after I just got a bag of links for my LHS.

Craig
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:28 PM   #29
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Hi bob,

I've always enjoyed your video, It's awesome..

How about a vid on how you get this little devil's zero pitch at mid stick and stuff..

Cheers
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:44 PM   #30
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Hi bob,

I've always enjoyed your video, It's awesome..

How about a vid on how you get this little devil's zero pitch at mid stick and stuff..

Cheers
quester
Yep... it's in the plan. Certainly not hard but I know new folks could use the help.

Bob
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:58 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finless View Post
I just tested a fix this weekend to loosing the links. I just used a TINY dab of hot glue across the forks. WORKED GREAT! Had many crashes and links popped off but I did not loose them. I plan to do an update video showing tips like this soon.

Bob

I just going to get my gluegun great idea.

Thanks Bob, great vids as always, and even though I don't consider myself a beginner I still check out the basic set vids as there is always a better way of doing it..

/Steve
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Old 03-31-2011, 11:40 AM   #32
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Default Pitch link and Swash tips

Seeing the guys on the vid searching for the pitch links had me in stitches - lol

A saw a tip the other day to prevent this problem, I used it on my mcpx and it works very well. Just get an elastic band, cut a hole in the middle, thread it over the main shaft, put a small hole each end and thread the pitch links through the holes, hey presto, no more lost links.... see the pic below:



Also, I don't know about your side of the pond, but getting hold of a new swash is difficult. I recently broke off the elevator ball on the swash, so it has now been "repaired" see series of pics below - works very well.





Used a round head pin:


Hand drilled with 0.8mm drill:


Compared to pin size


Snipped the pin short and fed it through the hole:


Glued in place:


Worked very well, but the pin head was a bit small so added some elastic to secure:


Hope this helps

Cheers,
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Old 03-31-2011, 03:08 PM   #33
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Thank you Bob for your videos, I just got my mCP X today and was not able to get it to fly, kept flipping on it's side. I was sure I had a bad heli but found your videos and re-binded the transmitter to the heli and off it went... I love it! but you are PRICELESS and thank you again for the videos and the assist....
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Old 04-03-2011, 02:37 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finless View Post
Yep... it's in the plan. Certainly not hard but I know new folks could use the help.

Bob
A video on how to get 0 pitch at 0% stick wold be great too, mine's in negative pitch up to 50% stick regardless of act/aux on the DX4e.

A smooth throttling up way would make me much more comfortable with this bird.
I already turned the servo links 4 times without much improvement. I'm afraid that if I'll go further they might come off after a crash.
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Old 04-03-2011, 04:17 PM   #35
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The open barrel of a "bic" type pen makes a handy tool for pressing on the main gear. I noticed that the slot (in the main gear) and the screw heads (on the collar and rotor head) all line up with the flat spot. That makes it easy to check if the main gear slipped a little and needs to be indexed and pressed. Being off by just a little has a noticeable effect on pitch.



Lost links? Not anymore. Your idea works great. Thanks Bob.
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Old 04-03-2011, 05:27 PM   #36
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Smile Any videos for the other flight modes?

Hello,

Are there any videos and/or instructions on how to use the other flight modes for the MCPX? I just got mine and have tried one flight in the "normal mode", but I am interested in how to use the other modes. I am just concerned over simply just changing the flight mode switch to another mode and have the copter take off like a rocket and drill itself into the ceiling.
I am assuming the the other modes allow the rotor/head speed to be at a constant rate and the upward and/or downward motion of the copter is done by using the variable pitch of the rotors.

Regards,

Dave
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Old 04-05-2011, 01:37 PM   #37
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I hope this as not been mentioned above but Bob seems to bind different from the manual.
I am sure i read it that you have to lower the throttle trim fully to bind,i could be wrong.
I did mine like that and it never seemed right.I have just seen this thread and i am going to bind with trim centred.
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:54 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vadimpelau View Post
A smooth throttling up way would make me much more comfortable with this bird.
Just use the built-in soft start that's not mentioned in the manual. Turn on throttle hold, power up the heli, set throttle stick to 50%, turn off throttle hold. The thing will wind up smooth on it's own.
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Old 04-08-2011, 12:54 PM   #39
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What I meant was having the positive pitch curve starting at 5-10% stick.

That is a lot more space to find a comfortable hoovering altitude.
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Old 04-08-2011, 01:41 PM   #40
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It's not possible to do that with the DX4e as it doesnt have curves that are adjustable.

Bob
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