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Gasser Helicopters Gasser Specific Discussion


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Old 05-02-2011, 09:39 AM   #21
fastflyer20
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Definitely reline. Measure the clutch OD and the bell ID. You want .020-.025" clearance. Align usually comes with too much clearance. Lynx sells a gas liner or use any std 700 liner and a .007-.008" paper shim behind it.
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:00 AM   #22
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Ordered! Thanks guys!
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Old 05-03-2011, 11:02 AM   #23
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When converting an electric to gas, make sure you buy mounting bolts. M3 washers are optional, and I chose to order those also to keep things looking uniform. For some parts, especially the plastic parts, Align does not supply bolts. The frame mounts wont come with screws either. That's a $20 for those (read: robbery), and no bolts.
I'm going to add fasteners to the parts list because they are necessary. It looks like the HD Lynx clutch liner is the way to go, but don't think its a necessary part. I ordered one, but I think you can get away with not changing the liner. So I'll leave that off for now.

I changed the orientation of the pull start, but there seems to be about 6" of play in the cord before it engages. Is this normal? Or is there a way to take up the slack so that I'm getting turnover right away?

This is where I'm at:



I'm waiting on:
Metal engine bearing block, clutch nut, Lynx HD clutch liner.

Need to purchase:
Stator Gator

Will work for heli parts!
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Old 05-04-2011, 02:09 PM   #24
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I happened to have a spare Frenzy 50 canopy. With a Thunder Tiger X50 canopy clip. It fits perfect on the HB6. I just had to redrill grommet holes, but there's plenty of room. I might vent the sides to get air flowing. I'll post pics once I'm finished putting the flames on the canopy.

Also, I ruined the pinion and clutch bell trying put the pinion back on the clutch bell. I guess something got caught in there, like a little metal shaving or something. I could only get it down about 3/4 of the way, then it wouldn't go any further nor would it back out. I lost my cool a bit, so.... I have to buy a new one. Expensive lesson . Don't rush... walk away, pour a drink (or whatever you do to relax) when you get frustrated. I'll have to order an new pinion and CB tomorrow.

I'm dry fitting everything together (no thread lock) so I can get an idea of how I'm going to run my wires. This is a very fun build aside from the setbacks. Very well thought out frame design, nice and stiff.
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Old 05-04-2011, 03:43 PM   #25
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Quote:
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Also, I ruined the pinion and clutch bell trying put the pinion back on the clutch bell. I guess something got caught in there, like a little metal shaving or something. I could only get it down about 3/4 of the way, then it wouldn't go any further nor would it back out. I lost my cool a bit, so.... I have to buy a new one. Expensive lesson . Don't rush... walk away, pour a drink (or whatever you do to relax) when you get frustrated. I'll have to order an new pinion and CB tomorrow.
I did too, it is a very soft steel (too soft for a pinion) and the threads are made oversize (poor machining). This is one of the few areas where Helibug should make an improvement. Same thing will happen if you ever need a new clutch bell or pinion, you will have to buy both.
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Old 05-04-2011, 09:51 PM   #26
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Since I'll be buying another pinion and clutch bell, is there a "best" way to prepare them? In other words, is there a method you use that will work for me? I don't want this to happen again.
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Old 05-05-2011, 05:00 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doozer View Post
Since I'll be buying another pinion and clutch bell, is there a "best" way to prepare them? In other words, is there a method you use that will work for me? I don't want this to happen again.
Someone, (sorry, forget who)(and I did this and removed/replaced the pinion 3 times so far), suggested cleaning the pinion threads with a brass wire brush in a dremel. Has worked a treat.
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Old 05-05-2011, 08:51 AM   #28
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Quote:
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Someone, (sorry, forget who)(and I did this and removed/replaced the pinion 3 times so far), suggested cleaning the pinion threads with a brass wire brush in a dremel. Has worked a treat.
sounds like a plan. Thank you.

Here's the Frenzy 50 canopy on the HB6





I'm not sure if any old clip will do, but I used the Canopy clip from a Thunder Tiger X50


I'm not sure I'm very excited about the flames. A little too busy on the canopy for me, I need to thin them out. I'll repaint at some point I guess.
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:04 AM   #29
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You better paint the whole canopy. Excluding the upper black area.
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:50 AM   #30
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Good Idea. I didn't think about that. I was trying to make it look like it caught fire just in that area, but a complete flames canopy would look pretty sweet. Thanks for the inspiration Azalyn. My son agrees with you.

How about something like this:



This was before I added the yellow highlights. I was halfway tempted to stop here, but I wanted it to look like the flames from the frame. I think I'm going to do the whole canopy like this.
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:53 AM   #31
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You know how to paint dude.
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Old 05-05-2011, 10:37 AM   #32
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Very Cool Flame job!!
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Old 05-06-2011, 03:24 AM   #33
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Great Idea Azalyn. I Worked on this a while tonight. Took it back to flat back a few times until I got the flames just right. It's not completely finished I need to add some more highlights.... This is with a midcoat clear.

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Old 05-06-2011, 03:25 AM   #34
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Oh man this is just perfect. Congratulations.
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Old 05-06-2011, 05:22 AM   #35
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Wow! Don't know how you did it, but it looks great!

The colors would also make it easy to see and stay oriented.

Al
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Old 05-06-2011, 05:27 AM   #36
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Very nice, looks great
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Old 05-06-2011, 08:46 AM   #37
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Quote:
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Wow! Don't know how you did it, but it looks great!

The colors would also make it easy to see and stay oriented.

Al
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Harbor Freight Airbrush.... the expensive one $15
Apple Barrel - Flat Black (reduced with windex 2:1 Paint to windex)
Apple Barrel - White (reduced with windex 2:1)
Createx - Neon orange (ready to paint)
Createx - Transparent yellow (ready to paint)

Lay down your black first:


Then with your white you want to lay in your flame licks. Any place that you want to look "hot" give it some extra white. I want it to look like the flames are traveling from front to back. I use the small home made stencil you see in the picture to help define my curves, and add the hot spots to the licks. You don't need expensive stencil sets. This is construction paper that I hit with clear to stiffen it after I drew it:



I missed a step in the process here, sorry. Now you want to hit the whole canopy with Neon Orange. This will push the flames deep into the canopy. Apply liberally. Don't worry about following the lines. Just spray away. (that's the step I missed). In the picture you want to create more hot spots and define the flames a little. I go back in with my stencil and my white and highlight curves. This gives the effect of heat:



Now I'll hit these hot hightlights with transparent yellow. This softens things up a bit. You could lay down a midcoat clear right here then lay in a candy color, your candies and transparents tend to bleed through. I didn't do that because I wanted the flame to sink in. Again apply the yellow liberally, cover the whole canopy:



Hit it with your orange again, not so heavy, but do get the whole canopy. Give it a couple of minutes and lay down a clear. If your happy with the outcome, quit. If you want to go for more definition, repeat the highlighting process again.


Last edited by Doozer; 05-15-2011 at 09:51 AM..
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Old 05-06-2011, 03:13 PM   #38
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Nice Job Man . Thanks for sharing the process . Not a painter myself , whats the reason to reduce the paints ?

-Marc
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Old 05-06-2011, 04:39 PM   #39
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Apple Barrell and Craftsmart paints are very inexpensive water based acrylics, but they are very thick. Too thick to shoot through an airbrush. You can actually get away with reducing with water if you want. I've done it and don't notice a big difference in consistency. What I do, that I forgot to mention, is strain the paint through a nylon sock to get any big chunks of paint that might clog my airbrush. You need to do that even if you reduce 50/50. I'd rather reduce 2:1 and clean my airbrush more. 50/50 is just to thin for me. If you use Windex to reduce, make sure it's ammonia free. I use the 99% natural Windex. I've heard/read that ammonia is not good if you have brass bits in you gun/brush. So I just stay away from it.


On the build front... I have everything now except the pinion and I ordered that last night. I'll be taking a dremel brush to the threads right away I hope to be breaking in the engine Monday or Tuesday.
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Old 05-06-2011, 11:25 PM   #40
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Great work and excellent instructions!

Thank you!

AL
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