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Odin and 3D+ Compass Odin and 3D+ Model Helicopter Discussion


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Old 09-01-2011, 04:25 PM   #21
rcnut
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I've seen the 6HV in action! It is a power house for sure. Simple construction, short height, light as heck, and solid. Maybe next year I'll get one, but for now I need to regain some of the equipment taken.

As for you motor...what brand? How many flights are on it? (broke-in yet) Maybe I can help.
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Old 09-01-2011, 09:28 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcnut View Post
As for you motor...what brand? How many flights are on it? (broke-in yet) Maybe I can help.
OS 55 with OS Powerboost pipe, I've ran about 2 gallons through it so far. 30% Torco heli mix. Have 2 more gallons of Curtis Youngblood 30% with 23% synthetic oil content ready to go.

Last time for example it was normal weather, not too humid, not too hot. Not much power at all. So I brought it back on both high and mid to 2 full turns (as per manual) and started tuning the high speed needle, 3 clicks at a time. went all the way to 1.25 turn and smoke is really thin but still no power. Tried the mid to 1.5 it was better but still not enough to throw it around with confidence.

I am going to setup my Beastx V3 firmware over the weekend and going to go fly again see if I can get it this time around. Any tips, tricks, suggestions are appreciated.
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Old 09-02-2011, 09:00 AM   #23
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That is interesting for sure. Start back at 2 turns out for both, then turn both in 2-3 clicks at a time. It sounds like it is right on the edge of "getting on the pipe". So possibly a timing issue, try a different plug, also check for air leaks. Get a can of WD40 with the red straw and spray it around the carb, backplate, front bearing while it is running. If you are taking in air, the oil will stop the motor.
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Old 09-02-2011, 11:17 AM   #24
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Ordered the servos, and will hookup with Coronal to get the rest tomorrow!
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Old 09-02-2011, 10:30 PM   #25
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Belcom,
I had a terrible time learning o tne at first. I| have power one day, but not the nxt. Now admittedly, was during a heat wave, but still, never very impressed. Fast forward a bit, learned I had an exhaust leak, so now pressure to the tank, or little pressure. Engine was hot, no power. I fixed the pipe as threads were shot. Used stainless steel bolts, lock washers and nuts. Got it tuned up, now temps are consistent and power is consistent one day to the next. Haven't tuned a click in 5 outings!
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Old 09-03-2011, 09:17 AM   #26
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Hey Cullen,

The last time I inspected the fuel tank it seems that from taking it out of the frame a couple times and because the pressure fitting on top is not angled it had cracks around the fitting and was kind of loosely sitting there because it was hitting the frame which kind of broke it. So what I did is cut away a bit of that cracked plastic, picked up an angled fitting and screwed it in there. I think the seal will be much better there now. Maybe I should try it after that fix. As the tank was most likely loosing pressure through those cracks.

I didn't quite understand how I can check for leaks using WD40. Can someone please elaborate on that? As far as I see it is pretty tightly attached with copper liquid gasket stuff thinly applied. I can check and re-do it again perhaps.
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Old 09-03-2011, 11:49 AM   #27
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belcom,

The WD40 is for the motor...not the tank. You need to have the motor running to do this. With the red straw, spray around the carb, the backplate, front bearing, any place the motor blots together. Any place that air can leak into. If you have a leak, the WD40 will cause the motor to bog and die...motors can run on just oil. You could do this with soap and water, like looking for an air leak on your car tire or a gas leak after installing a new water heater.

I have a Moki engine that had a blemish on the motor case, just below where the piston sleeving stopped on the inside. At first, the motor ran great! But after many flights, the performance started dropping off. The motor became hard to tune and then just didn't want to run at all.

Some one told me about using WD40 to find the leak. So I tried it and found the problem. Cleaned the area very well and applied JB weld to the area. Now the motor runs great, never had a problem with it after.

This technic works for those hard to find type problems. Outside of that, I would inspect your fuel lines and everything inside of the carb. Found a small hairball (like lint) inside of a friends carb that partially blocked the fuel flow.
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Old 09-09-2011, 12:55 PM   #28
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Vlad ... let us know if you find a leak or not, I'm still fairly new to nitro and still learning too.
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:30 AM   #29
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So after getting the angled Dubro pressure fitting for the exhaust line and taking care of the cracks it started flying a lot better. I was definitely losing pressure out of those cracks. I still do have a tiny leak in the same spot but I just bought some gas sealant/glue for the purpose and going to try and seal around that fitting to make sure there are no leaks. Here's the video from the weekend. I know it kind of sucks because I was flying quite far but it's all I got at the moment and I am not comfortable flying closer. Will shoot the vid with HD camcorder next time around. Getting ~11min of flight on one tank. Back plate temp was around 170F so I guess I can lean it some more next time. I love the hang time on the 3D Plus, it just floats graciously in the air. Very nice. Also I turned on the tail pre-comp on the Beastx v3 and it actually does help a lot. Have it set at Low. On high setting it was over compensating in the other direction. And one thing I have not done yet is to level the swash perfectly.

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Old 09-13-2011, 11:55 AM   #30
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Thanks for the update, Vlad!! Great video!!
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Old 09-13-2011, 12:20 PM   #31
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My engine temp, behind the head is 205, so yes, you can lean it out a bit, the question is, which needle?
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Old 09-13-2011, 01:44 PM   #32
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Well, here's what was happening... I kept playing with the high speed needle and although it was flying nicely and had decent climb out power it would bog pretty bad when trying to do some tick tocs. So I left the high speed where it was which was I think about 1.25 and brought the second needle back to 2 full turns. It was better but still bogging, leaned it a bit and it was a little better but still bogging doing tic tocs. so I think I need to do some more tuning with mid needle and see what happens but only after I seal all the cracks up properly. Seems that finding that happy median between the needles is kind of hard. But it is fun flying that thing anyway.
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Old 09-13-2011, 03:37 PM   #33
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Try starting at 1.75 on the high and 1.5 on the mid. I'll start there and usually end up leaning my top end a few clicks and richening my mid a click or so. You should be able to get really snappy mid range response and good climbout power w/ that engine and 30% nitro, all w/o frying your motor. This is all on my b320 pipe. Check out the LMAC videos for the sound and power you should be looking for, John Cook and I both flew pretty much exclusively all nitro all weekend, well, until I put my 3D+ in the ground.
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