Fun, Learning, Friendship and Mutual Respect
START  HERE


Unregistered
Go Back   HeliFreak > R/C Batteries and Charging Support > Brand Specific Charger and Battery Support


Brand Specific Charger and Battery Support Brand Specific Charger and Battery Support


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-01-2011, 09:08 AM   #1
Heli_Noob
Registered Users
 
Posts: 25
 

Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Bakersfield, CA USA
Default HP DPS-600PB Internal DC Ground Removal?

I bought 2 of those HP PSU's and I need to make them a single 24v psu for my hyperion 720i super duo3, I charge 2x 6s 5000mah 45c batts. Anyways... Where and how do you remove the DC internally on these? Will doing so allow me to touch both units and let the 2 units touch without shorting or frying myself? I don't wanna cook myself or the power supplys. Any pictures on how to deal with the ground issues with making these two a series? If you have any pictures or help that would be very cool. How does the wiring look with the hot swap connector taken off and what wires go where to make them in series with hot swap removed? I'm not really a noob, well with electrics I am, always flown nitro but I really want to get my new 700e in the air and this is the last step. Thank you in advance for any help! PM or email mulishafmxxx@aol.com if you have any pictures of what I can do. TY!
- Nooooooob

Last edited by Heli_Noob; 09-02-2011 at 08:29 AM.. Reason: wording
Heli_Noob is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2011, 10:15 PM   #2
pctomlin
Registered Users
 
Posts: 2,080
 

Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: The Great State of Texas
Default

I have seen pictures of isolating the DC side of these power supplies, but I can't find then right now. They were in a post at RCGroups, RR or Tjinguy. I came across them when I was researching to build my charging box. From what I remember you cut two jumper wires that are the ground for the front left screw that holds the board to the chassis, and you have to score the upper and lower side of the board for the right front hold down screw to break the ground traces in the board itself.
__________________
Paul
Outrage 550 - Castle 3434-1100, Ice 100, Bec Pro, 94758z, Total G w/JR 8900G
Outrage 550 - 4020-1390, Ice 100, Bec Pro, JR 8717s, Total G w/JR 8900G
Rave Ballistic FSO - HKIII 4035-560, Ice HV160, Bec Pro, JR 8717s, Total G w/BL-9188
pctomlin is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2011, 08:43 AM   #3
Heli_Noob
Registered Users
 
Posts: 25
Thread Starter Thread Starter
 

Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Bakersfield, CA USA
Default

thanks, i'll give it a shot today
Heli_Noob is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2011, 10:02 AM   #4
Heli_Noob
Registered Users
 
Posts: 25
Thread Starter Thread Starter
 

Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Bakersfield, CA USA
Default

grrr, jumpers snipped and clear of each other, 1/4 hole through both mounts, isolated the post on the case, isolated the board over the two mount holes with rubber garments.... case is still showing signs of DC on both my meters. Also on the power cable.... Am I supposed to snip that green/black wire and isolate it? It's the wire that leads to the ground on the power plug. There are also blue resistors on them, should any of those be taken away? I've seen so many pictures of people removing and isolating that green/black wire, but i keep getting conflicting info but i've moved from step 1 to step 2 lol
Heli_Noob is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2011, 10:21 PM   #5
J DAMAGE
Registered Users
 
Posts: 49
 

Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: New Jersey
Default

1/4 hole, push grommet through hole so the grommet is isolating the top and bottom of board, srew main board back in case , you will still get ground at all 4 srews to case because case is grounded through ac to case, check continuity under grommets to case, ( should show no ground) then check main board ground post to case ( should show no ground ) look at the drawings i sent to you.
J DAMAGE is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2011, 11:53 PM   #6
Heli_Noob
Registered Users
 
Posts: 25
Thread Starter Thread Starter
 

Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Bakersfield, CA USA
Default

noob reply... made a video... on 200m and 20 shows negitive DC voltage readings, is that correct? the gronded PS shows 12.7

video i made showing my meter testing both units

Last edited by Heli_Noob; 09-11-2011 at 02:28 AM.. Reason: forgot stuff because i'm a noooob
Heli_Noob is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 05:30 AM   #7
007brendan
Registered Users
 
Posts: 144
 
My HF Map location
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Default

I have the same power supplies. Here's a pic of how I removed the DC ground. There are two screws on the DC side that attach the board to the case. The right one you can unscrew. I took it out and surrounded it in heatshrink to break the link.

The left screw has no chance of being removed without unsoldering the lead posts from the board, but luckily, it connects to ground through two metal jumpers on the board, they're underneath the lead posts, you can see where I've cut them in the pic below.

__________________
EXI 450
Trex 600e GF
007brendan is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2011, 08:39 PM   #8
J DAMAGE
Registered Users
 
Posts: 49
 

Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: New Jersey
Default

You can take the left screw out once you unscrew the break-out board, 2-screws on poss&neg post, 2-screws L&R of break-out board and 1-nut center of break out board, and ribbin cable unlocks from housing.
J DAMAGE is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2011, 06:50 AM   #9
Lighty
Registered Users
 

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Australia
Default

I just removed the ground from one of the power leads..
__________________
/ 7HV - 7HVN 6HV - WARP 360 - FURY 55 ALL ON VX1e
Lighty is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2011, 01:31 AM   #10
007brendan
Registered Users
 
Posts: 144
 
My HF Map location
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lighty View Post
I just removed the ground from one of the power leads..
That removes the AC Ground. Removing DC is safer, and you don't have to isolate the cases to prevent them from shorting out.
__________________
EXI 450
Trex 600e GF
007brendan is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2011, 05:08 AM   #11
Lighty
Registered Users
 

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Australia
Default

Hey Brendan

I fixed up the AC ground so it's back to normal and proceeded to remove the DC with two nylon washer on both DC mounting screws. I left the jumpers intact.

I tested them and don't trust them touching each other, the multi meter which is set on AMPS reads 0.00 on the modified unit. On the unmodified unit the meter isn't constant, I get 0.00 - 0.06 0.03... Is this safe?

I didn't connect the charger just yet..
Lighty is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2011, 11:34 AM   #12
007brendan
Registered Users
 
Posts: 144
 
My HF Map location
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lighty View Post
Hey Brendan

I fixed up the AC ground so it's back to normal and proceeded to remove the DC with two nylon washer on both DC mounting screws. I left the jumpers intact.

I tested them and don't trust them touching each other, the multi meter which is set on AMPS reads 0.00 on the modified unit. On the unmodified unit the meter isn't constant, I get 0.00 - 0.06 0.03... Is this safe?

I didn't connect the charger just yet..
Set your multimeter to read volts. Plug in just the modified unit. If the ground is still intact, you should get 12V between the case and the positive terminal. If the ground is removed it will be 0V, or will jump around zero. There should be 0V between the PS cases, so there should be no problem with them touching. Once you connect the PS's in series you should see 24-25V between the case of the modified PS and its positive terminal.
__________________
EXI 450
Trex 600e GF
007brendan is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2011, 04:11 PM   #13
Lighty
Registered Users
 

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Australia
Default

Sorry I didn't explain my test, I just simply with the meter placed the + & - on the outside of each case. This read was not from the - or positive poles.

Ok I just tested it again this morning and noticed that the + on the meter wasn't all the way in.

I put the + & - on the outside of the case on the modified unit = 0.00 (amps & DCV)

I put the + & - on the outside of the case on the unmodified unit = 0.00 (amps & DCV)

I put the + on the modified and - on the unmodified unit = 0.00 -0.01 ( amps & DCV)

Does this seem look ok?
Lighty is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2011, 08:20 PM   #14
Lighty
Registered Users
 

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Australia
Default

I'm charging a pack off it now and it reads 25.34v off the 306b. 0.0amp. This must be due to the very small pack 800mah lipo.

But they aren't touching....
Lighty is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2011, 12:21 AM   #15
007brendan
Registered Users
 
Posts: 144
 
My HF Map location
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lighty View Post
Sorry I didn't explain my test, I just simply with the meter placed the + & - on the outside of each case. This read was not from the - or positive poles.

Ok I just tested it again this morning and noticed that the + on the meter wasn't all the way in.

I put the + & - on the outside of the case on the modified unit = 0.00 (amps & DCV)

I put the + & - on the outside of the case on the unmodified unit = 0.00 (amps & DCV)

I put the + on the modified and - on the unmodified unit = 0.00 -0.01 ( amps & DCV)

Does this seem look ok?
Let me see if I understand this, you're connecting both multimeter leads to the outside of the same case? You do realize that is basically the same as just touching the leads together, right? It doesn't measure anything.

Also, don't worry about trying to measure amps. You don't measure it the same way you're measuring volts anyway.

It almost sounds like you probably shouldn't be making these modifications. However, it sounds like you lucked out, because if you hadn't removed the DC ground, you would have shorted out the first PS when you plugged them in and it (hopefully) would have automatically shut itself off.

The cases are both connected to AC ground, so the cases are already "touching" through the wall outlet. The fact that the cases aren't physically touching doesn't matter.
__________________
EXI 450
Trex 600e GF
007brendan is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2011, 12:37 AM   #16
Lighty
Registered Users
 

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Australia
Default

Cheers Brendan. All good they are touching and getting it on. A HUGE thanks to J DAMAGE!

Cheers
__________________
/ 7HV - 7HVN 6HV - WARP 360 - FURY 55 ALL ON VX1e
Lighty is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2011, 10:05 PM   #17
thanasi
Registered Users
 
Posts: 1,477
 

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Toronto Canada
Default

Hi Guys i need some help !!
I have been folowing these threads and ckd others but have not able to find any answers.
Im allready running a DPS-600pb thanks to Tjin but wanted to try series for 24v as im planning to get (hoping) a t-550 for Christmas.
Now i removed my hot-swap on my first ps so i wanted to do the same for the second (24v). My problem is when i remove the ground on the right side my power sp doest fire up, clicks on and off like its in cuircuit protection ?
When i re connect no problem but i get the DC ground wich we dont want.
I believe its something with the ribbon connector im missing a step ????
If you look at my pic i ( from left (red) to the right ) i joined the first 2 to ground and 4,5 and 8 shorted to gether. I left purple and blue un att as my first power supp and all works norm BUT when i remove the right side grnd it clicks.
I also cut the jumpers in this case as described in previous posts.
I tried some diff ways, removed the red wire (pair) from ground and same thing so i re inst.
I cant seem to remember where i found the info for removeall of the hot swap so i just opend my first PS and followed what i did there.
Any help will be greatly appreciated
Thanks

Sorry about the upside down pics lol took with phone !
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0484[1].jpg
Views:	1189
Size:	92.2 KB
ID:	260375   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0485[1].jpg
Views:	1065
Size:	109.1 KB
ID:	260376  
thanasi is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2011, 11:07 PM   #18
J DAMAGE
Registered Users
 
Posts: 49
 

Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: New Jersey
Default

Looks like the ribbin cable is wired wrong,

Last edited by J DAMAGE; 10-16-2011 at 02:15 PM..
J DAMAGE is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2011, 11:25 PM   #19
thanasi
Registered Users
 
Posts: 1,477
 

Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Toronto Canada
Default

Thanks for the reply !!
Can you describe the ribbon connections starting from the red wire, left to right.
Red being the left side.
I just matched the first supply that has been working for me for 6 months now !
thanasi is offline        Reply With Quote
Old 10-16-2011, 09:27 AM   #20
rlclemmons
Registered Users
 
Posts: 335
 

Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Richmond, VA
Default

I had the same issue last night, click.click.click. The red wire (1) and the one next to it (2) need to be connected to DC ground. Then 4,5,8 must be connected together.

Looking at that pic, move your (1,2) ring terminal to the lower stand-off marked JGND. If you have removed dc ground from your chassis, that's why she is not powering on.
rlclemmons is offline        Reply With Quote
Reply




Unregistered
Go Back   HeliFreak > R/C Batteries and Charging Support > Brand Specific Charger and Battery Support


Brand Specific Charger and Battery Support Brand Specific Charger and Battery Support

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


Copyright © 2004-2011 - William James - Helifreak.com