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Old 11-20-2011, 10:25 PM   #41
thanasi
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Quote:
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I don't mind it at all, were all here to help each other out, glade it worked out for you, hook up like the drawings I emailed you.
Yuppers ckd the drawings (me dummy) u sent me, got to switch the jumper no biggy !
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Old 12-02-2011, 02:41 PM   #42
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I have been reading this post and feel fairly confident so far in this undertaking. I do have a couple questions though.

What are the benefits of removing the daughter board? Is it just to simplify connections or is there more to it?

The other thing is, can I take wires 4,5, and 8 out of the ribbon and run 4&8 to one side of a toggle and 5 to the other side to switch the power supply on and off? Is there an easier/safer way of switching these?


Thanks for the help
George
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Old 12-02-2011, 04:26 PM   #43
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What do u mean by daughter board ?
4,5,8 need to be shorted all together to trick the supply for it to give you full voltage
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:52 PM   #44
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Sorry for the confusion, I was referring to the small board with the actual pins and the power terminals, the board that the ribbon cable plugs into. I would just like a way to switch the power supply on and off. I have seen a few that people installed toggles on, but never seen how it was done.
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Old 12-02-2011, 09:13 PM   #45
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Ok i believe they call it the hot swap, its just like a plug when the supply is used at it was intended. We remove it for a much cleaner look, thats all !
U cant togle 4,5,8 but it shouldnt be hard to install a togle switch to cut off power at the plug but at the inside of the unit.
Just put the switch on the hot side of the electrical plug.
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Old 12-03-2011, 12:00 AM   #46
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I will look into toggling the hot side of the AC plug, its so tight in there I will have to see what I am comfortable with, thanks for the info...

George
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Old 12-14-2011, 01:25 PM   #47
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Hello Everyone! I found this post on Google and seems to be the most up to date on this subject, I have two DPS-600's and am going to follow the instructions that i have read here and on tjintech's site. the one thing i am having an issue with is finding the exact way to remove the DC ground from one of the cases to connect them in a series. I want to apologies in advance as i know this whole thread is talking about this issue, but im a visual type of person if you get my drift I understand the removing of the hot swap plug and using the ribbon cable but that's where i begin to lose the instructions a bit haha... so the 4,5,8 connect together (which is basically the power on switch) then what exactly are the other two blue wires that are capped off (in the pictures a few pages back)? and how exactly do you disconnect the DC Ground from the case? I read one of the post and there were some pictures exchanged on this (diagrams) I think this is where i lose the thread. is there any way i could receive those as well

Thanks again in advance!
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Old 01-03-2012, 08:38 AM   #48
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Any help would be great. I removed the DC ground on one power supply. Now the voltage coming out of that unit is un stable.
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Old 01-03-2012, 10:36 AM   #49
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Pakk i will try, give me more info, what have you done to remove dc grnd and have u tired to put it back to normal and see if the voltage is stable after ?
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Old 01-03-2012, 12:00 PM   #50
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I did just as displayed earlier in this thread. I isolated on mounting bolt and cut the ground jumper on the other side of the board. I can try to re connect it. The power supply was working fine by its self prior to removing the DC ground internally.
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Old 01-03-2012, 12:16 PM   #51
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What do you define as unstable?
Have you put a load on it and measured it?

Are you sure you have the pins jumpered right?

Have you gone back to the build thread for that exact PS in RC Groups and checked that you did everything right ?

I know on one PS you had to jumper ALL the negative terminals together, top and bottom of the PC board sticking out the back of the PS or it would act that way.
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:48 PM   #52
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THe voltage will not hold at 12.3 when I put my meter to it. Its reads as low as 1v and up to 35v. I did hook my hyperion charger to it and it read 12.6. So maybe it does have to be loaded? When I tried to hook my hyperion charger to it, I got a big spark so I backed off. I didn't try to hook it up again. Should I try?
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:58 PM   #53
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I always get a big spark when I connect my Hyperion charger to my power supplies at 24V, so that is not completely unusual.
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Old 01-03-2012, 01:59 PM   #54
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How did you "hook my hyperion charger to it and it read 12.6".
And you are asking if you should, because it sparks?

You will get a spark, that is common.
I always plug my charger into the PS before I turn it on.
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:00 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theColonel View Post
I always get a big spark when I connect my Hyperion charger to my power supplies at 24V, so that is not completely unusual.
would you be willing to put a volt meter to the side where the dc ground was removed?
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:02 PM   #56
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I don't have the same power supplies, but I can test.
The ones I have are IBM supplies.
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:11 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pakk View Post
would you be willing to put a volt meter to the side where the dc ground was removed?
My IBM power supply is a steady 12.2V. The -ve leg was still connected to the other supply though as they are soldered together.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The WoodCrafter View Post
I always plug my charger into the PS before I turn it on.
I generally do this too, works great!
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:12 PM   #58
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I have my 2 PS mounted inside a case. Not easy to get at individually.
They are wired in series to get 24V. I measure 12.3V and 24.4V with no load.

I never thought to measure them individually when I built it.

Have you put them in series?
What voltage do you get then?

Last edited by The WoodCrafter; 01-03-2012 at 03:37 PM..
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:13 PM   #59
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The power supply with the DC ground is rock solid at 12.3 with both my meter and charger.

The power supply with the DC ground removed fluctuates from 1v to 40v with my meter. With my charger, it reads 12.6 solid.

When connected in series, the voltage fluctuates when measured with my meter. When I connect my charger, I get a big spark. I'm kind of worried about hooking my charger to it with fear of destroying it.
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:46 PM   #60
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I enjoy helping and try to help everybody that posts here.
But when I ask a question and don't get an answer the help slows down.
I usually end up not trying as hard for some reason.

Quote:
Are you sure you have the pins jumpered right?

Have you gone back to the build thread for that exact PS in RC Groups and checked that you did everything right ?

I know on one PS you had to jumper ALL the negative terminals together, top and bottom of the PC board sticking out the back of the PS or it would act that way.
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