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HBFP V1/V2 E-Sky Honey Bee V1 & V2 Fixed Pitch


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Old 10-28-2011, 12:45 PM   #81
JettaManDan
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When I got my first brushless motor. I called and complained because I could not turn the propeller shaft. I had a good grip on the motor and even tried to turn the shaft with my vice grips! Though for sure the motor was locked up for some reason......DUH!
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Old 10-28-2011, 04:21 PM   #82
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When I got my first brushless motor. I called and complained because I could not turn the propeller shaft. I had a good grip on the motor and even tried to turn the shaft with my vice grips! Though for sure the motor was locked up for some reason......DUH!


Had I not asked you guys about it I may have thought the same thing!

Sort of like the time I called Horizon Hobby customer support because my CX2 was spinning and tipping over on it's side after replacing the 4 in 1.........
I plugged the motors in wrong and they were spinning in the same direction!What's even worse is that I should have known that!!
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Old 10-29-2011, 08:51 AM   #83
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Had I not asked you guys about it I may have thought the same thing!

Sort of like the time I called Horizon Hobby customer support because my CX2 was spinning and tipping over on it's side after replacing the 4 in 1.........
I plugged the motors in wrong and they were spinning in the same direction!What's even worse is that I should have known that!!
no one is born with all the knowledge..so you gotta learn sometime
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Old 10-31-2011, 12:20 PM   #84
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Default Swash leveler

I'm not at this point in the build yet. Just playing around while I wait for parts.
I think this might work. Make sure the work table is level, then the whole helicopter in general. Move the level from side to side to check if the swash is level.
I'm sure somebody else has probably tried this.


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Old 10-31-2011, 03:57 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by Oldladypilot View Post
I'm not at this point in the build yet. Just playing around while I wait for parts.
I think this might work. Make sure the work table is level, then the whole helicopter in general. Move the level from side to side to check if the swash is level.
I'm sure somebody else has probably tried this.


That could even work out to be a tiny bit more accurate than a swash leveling tool.
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Old 10-31-2011, 04:03 PM   #86
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That could even work out to be a tiny bit more accurate than a swash leveling tool.
This way I don't have to take the head off to put a swash leveler on there!
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Old 11-01-2011, 08:29 AM   #87
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Originally Posted by Oldladypilot View Post
This way I don't have to take the head off to put a swash leveler on there!
yep..good idea for sure!!! i just eyeball them and hope for the best lol!
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Old 11-05-2011, 03:02 AM   #88
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Default Some progress

Here's where I'm at now with this project.
Any Criticisms?
I think I'm ready to start getting the servos set up.

JMD, can you see what I did with the bullet connectors on the ESC wires? I cut the plastic connector at the first inside ridge so I could get the wire in there, then just put some extra heat shrink.


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Old 11-05-2011, 04:48 AM   #89
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think it looks good...i know you had no choice on the connectors....but it looks really clean so far....you might want to do some canopy test fits...mine hit my main gear with my 3000mah up there..so i had to move it forward a bit to clear right..it was good after that....

as usual...hit me up with any Q's!
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:46 AM   #90
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Yep agree with JMD - with my 500 & the 3000 mAh lipos, the top of the battery has to be level with the rubber canopy braces or it won't fit.
Also, I ended up with the esc under the battery tray rather than attached to the base-plate & I'm very glad I did. I came out of a loop too low/fast and ripped the skids off (which stuck in the ground) and broke the base-plate. It flew on absolutely fine & I actually landed it skidless without any further damage. If my esc had been on that base-plate, it might have been a whole different story.
Otherwise looking cool
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Old 11-05-2011, 11:58 AM   #91
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Thanks.

The battery is where it is in the pictures because I just slapped it on there to keep the heli off it's tail! I use a tv tray as a work bench, this way it sits on it level. I see what you guys are saying.....it needs to be further down on the tray for the canopy to fit.

The Bullet connectors are temporary. If I have to plug/unplug those very much they may not hold up. And, I didn't want to wait another week for new ones to get here. JMD, I am also wondering about what you said about those connectors handling the amperage. Guess I'll find out. (For those who may wonder what that's about....the ESC wires are 12awg and won't fit into 3.5mm connectors. The motor wires are 14awg).

I am considering moving the ESC to the left side, or as KeithT mentioned, under the battery tray. I guess if you have yours there KeithT, it's not a cog problem.

Tail servo: the ball link already popped off that disc and I'm not sure I'm getting full range of movement.

To anyone thinking about getting one of these kits; consider getting better hardware. The hex heads on the smallest bolts strip easily....other then that it's a good kit.

Is it normal for the servos to make funny noises when their idle? I haven't noticed that on my Bee.
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Old 11-05-2011, 12:29 PM   #92
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Hi OLP....
Digital servos do 'chatter' quite a bit and although I think they say 'digital' on the bee servos, they aren't, so they don't.
Also, no issues with cog where I have my esc, but on the side would be just fine too
You're absolutely right about the bolts - they are worth totally changing as once the LT sets, you can have real trouble removing the originals if the head strips.

Looking good
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Old 11-05-2011, 03:07 PM   #93
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i put my ESC on the bottom with the open case side up to get max airflow from the blades...i know you are gonna upgrade the connectors..you'll be fine to start out...

yes digital servo's do chatter..and the tail servo will make noise non stop of the gyro is hooked up right...i used the longest arm on my tail servo linkage and used the limit pot on the gyro to trim the throw to where i wanted it..better to have more mechanical throw and trim down with that then not enough throw mechanicially and you have issues....my opinion at least!
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Old 11-05-2011, 04:37 PM   #94
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How did the ball link come off?
Are you using a nut on the back side of the bolt you secured the ball on the disc with? With LT?
I only ask as for my first build I just "screwed" the bolts into the plastic horns after drilling them out justenough so the thread would bite. Simply because there was only 1 extra nut provided as a spare for the jesus pins.
Second build: I got my own nuts
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Old 11-05-2011, 06:37 PM   #95
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Originally Posted by JettaManDan View Post
i put my ESC on the bottom with the open case side up to get max airflow from the blades...i know you are gonna upgrade the connectors..you'll be fine to start out...

yes digital servo's do chatter..and the tail servo will make noise non stop of the gyro is hooked up right...i used the longest arm on my tail servo linkage and used the limit pot on the gyro to trim the throw to where i wanted it..better to have more mechanical throw and trim down with that then not enough throw mechanicially and you have issues....my opinion at least!
Thanks! I was wondering about that. Didn't know I could adjust the throw of the servo either.

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How did the ball link come off?
Are you using a nut on the back side of the bolt you secured the ball on the disc with?
With LT?
I only ask as for my first build I just "screwed" the bolts into the plastic horns after drilling them out justenough so the thread would bite. Simply because there was only 1 extra nut provided as a spare for the jesus pins.
Second build: I got my own nuts
No I didn't put a nut on there but I'm going to dig through my "vast" collection of nuts to see if I have any that small. There's very little material holding those on the arms so nuts make sense.

I got the ESC programed today and ran the motor. There is just a bit of wobble in the head so I think the shaft is slightly bent. Just a hair out of round on the main gear too. I expected that, it's seems to be a common problem with these kits but I didn't think I'd get a bad shaft.
Guess I'll be ordering some Align ones.

The set up process seems quite extensive. Thanks to the videos available I think I can get through it and learn some new things. Just getting to the point where I will put the blades and flybar on there to get those all set to go will take me awhile but that's why I bought this....as a project.


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Old 11-05-2011, 07:56 PM   #96
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Thanks! I was wondering about that. Didn't know I could adjust the throw of the servo either.


No I didn't put a nut on there but I'm going to dig through my "vast" collection of nuts to see if I have any that small. There's very little material holding those on the arms so nuts make sense.

I got the ESC programed today and ran the motor. There is just a bit of wobble in the head so I think the shaft is slightly bent. Just a hair out of round on the main gear too. I expected that, it's seems to be a common problem with these kits but I didn't think I'd get a bad shaft.
Guess I'll be ordering some Align ones.

The set up process seems quite extensive. Thanks to the videos available I think I can get through it and learn some new things. Just getting to the point where I will put the blades and flybar on there to get those all set to go will take me awhile but that's why I bought this....as a project.


you'll get it..it isn't as bad as you think....and we're here to help if you have any questions...you've gotten really far already!
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Old 11-05-2011, 08:18 PM   #97
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Thanks JMD!

I ordered a main shaft, main gear, the connectors I need and Scorpion battery straps.
Is that shaft very difficult to change out? Any tips? I haven't really taken a look yet to see what it entails.

It's fun working on it and this beast is in a whole different league then my other birds.....so I'm learning a lot too. I have to admit though, this heli scares me!
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Old 11-06-2011, 01:19 AM   #98
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The factory shaft on my EXI came bent and i changed it out to an Align unit as well as the main gear. Did you get a Swash plate alignment tool? If you get the swash plate properly alligned with the servo midpoints, you got most the work done. Set the CP arm linkage at the proper measurements and finally, degree the blades by fine tuning the arm lenghts and you are done and everything should track pretty good. It is really as simple as that. Once you get the drill down, it is really not all that hard to do. However the first time is a bit of a challenge.

Takes about 30 minutes from start to finish once the drill is learned.
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Old 11-06-2011, 04:40 AM   #99
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main shaft is not hard to take out...remove the jesus bolt 1st...the one at the top of the head main body...loosen the collar on the bottom of the shaft...remove the screw through the bottom of the main gear...undo the links...pull the whole head off the shaft..and then the shaft out of the bearing blocks...the main shaft cover was a pain on mine..got stuck...so had to find a way to get it off...that was the only real pain...otherwise it isn't hard...
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:12 AM   #100
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Originally Posted by Chris Arena View Post
The factory shaft on my EXI came bent and i changed it out to an Align unit as well as the main gear. Did you get a Swash plate alignment tool? If you get the swash plate properly alligned with the servo midpoints, you got most the work done. Set the CP arm linkage at the proper measurements and finally, degree the blades by fine tuning the arm lenghts and you are done and everything should track pretty good. It is really as simple as that. Once you get the drill down, it is really not all that hard to do. However the first time is a bit of a challenge.

Takes about 30 minutes from start to finish once the drill is learned.
I set up the servos last night with Nutcaze's video. It was fun. I was going to use a little line level on the swash. The problem is getting the heli on a level surface, and also that the heli sits level on the surface. Takes a lot more time then just using a leveler I think!

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main shaft is not hard to take out...remove the jesus bolt 1st...the one at the top of the head main body...loosen the collar on the bottom of the shaft...remove the screw through the bottom of the main gear...undo the links...pull the whole head off the shaft..and then the shaft out of the bearing blocks...the main shaft cover was a pain on mine..got stuck...so had to find a way to get it off...that was the only real pain...otherwise it isn't hard...
Thanks JMD.
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