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Old 02-19-2012, 08:10 PM   #21
photocycler
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Day 2: Boom supports epoxied and mounted, motor installed and a first run at belt tightening

I will probably braid wrap the remaining cyclic servos and hopefully receive the FBL head to wrap up the mechanical part of the build tomorrow

Notes:
I have only had a couple somewhat long goes at the build, but I can't have more then 4 hours into it if that.

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Old 02-19-2012, 10:06 PM   #22
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Starting to look real good!!
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Old 02-21-2012, 09:59 PM   #23
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FBL conversion was delivered, I am now trying to find the best place for instructions on the FBL install? Finless never did a build video for the Mini so I have not seen any videos or direction for the install

I am referencing the mini manual, I see they show a thin spacer to be inserted into the hub before the dampener, I don't have these thin washers in my fbl upgrade kit, are they necessary?
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Old 02-22-2012, 05:38 AM   #24
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Hi photocycler

No washers on the inside for the 500.
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:59 AM   #25
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Here you go.

http://msheli.com/Manual/Vbar_conversion_r01.pdf
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:38 PM   #26
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So im stuck at a really stupid part, seems the mini manual has the mixing arms backwards so after assembling mixing arms I am now trying to remove the pin and having difficulty

anyone have a suggestion for removing the pin from the mixing arms..
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:14 PM   #27
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I did that to one arm. I also put a pic in a thread about the new FBL kit how the arms should go Hoping others would see it and not make the same mistake I did.

To get the pin out, try using a ball link plier and a small thin nail that is used to put up small picture frame. Try to squeeze the nail and push out the pin.

Edit: Here's the link to the post with the pic:
http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.ph...88&postcount=3
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:42 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexf1852 View Post
I did that to one arm. I also put a pic in a thread about the new FBL kit how the arms should go Hoping others would see it and not make the same mistake I did.

To get the pin out, try using a ball link plier and a small thin nail that is used to put up small picture frame. Try to squeeze the nail and push out the pin.

Edit: Here's the link to the post with the pic:
http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.ph...88&postcount=3
Thx for that, that is where i was looking when i saw I had it backwards...I will give the ball pliers a try
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:52 PM   #29
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ok hoping to buy my tail servo and FBL unit this weekend

So the finless video showed him running the tail servo on the opposite side, is that my best bet?
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Old 02-25-2012, 12:14 AM   #30
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Mounting the tail servo on the left offers some protection against flybar, and possibly main blade impact during a crash. Place your elevator servo on the opposite side of the tail servo to help balance the heli.
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Old 02-25-2012, 11:16 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d1esel View Post
Mounting the tail servo on the left offers some protection against flybar, and possibly main blade impact during a crash. Place your elevator servo on the opposite side of the tail servo to help balance the heli.
I will be flybarless but still sounds like a good idea unless there are any negative effects of running it that way?


Also where can I find info on grounding the boom, I assume that is necessary?
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Old 02-25-2012, 04:50 PM   #32
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If you have the latest version, no need to ground the boom. (It has some lines in the plastic).

I have not grounded mine, and it works fine.
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Old 02-25-2012, 04:56 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thalios View Post
If you have the latest version, no need to ground the boom. (It has some lines in the plastic).

I have not grounded mine, and it works fine.
Thx

Just got the AR7200BX home, going to work on the servo centering and get the main servo frame in today.

Anyone point me to some DX7s settings?
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:32 PM   #34
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Ok pair of Gens Ace 2500 packs ordered and savox tail servo..should be dialing in the beast this week for a weekend maiden
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Old 02-27-2012, 06:56 PM   #35
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pics!!! pics!!! where are the pics!!!!
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:20 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfishsick View Post
pics!!! pics!!! where are the pics!!!!
Pics will be coming shortly

So battery's will be here tomorrow and I plan to work on beastX setup this weekend.

Do I need a digital pitch gauge to setup pitch?

Would I be better off with EC3 or EC5 for my 2500 packs?


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Old 02-29-2012, 12:30 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by photocycler View Post
Pics will be coming shortly

So battery's will be here tomorrow and I plan to work on beastX setup this weekend.

Do I need a digital pitch gauge to setup pitch?

Would I be better off with EC3 or EC5 for my 2500 packs?


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Yes, you will need some type of pitch gauge. EC5s are too big for this size bird and not necessary. I prefer XT60 over the EC3. But EC3 are fine too.
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:14 AM   #38
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I use EC5.

EC3 are, I think, rated for max 60A.
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Old 02-29-2012, 11:48 AM   #39
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EC5 here as well, like them a lot.
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:15 PM   #40
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That rating is 60 amps continuous. The Protos does not pull that much continuously. The average may be 30 to 45 amps over a hard 3d flight. Unless of course you're running a custom wound high powered motor with 470 blades.

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