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nano CP X Blade nano CP X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 02-21-2013, 11:06 PM   #301
ArchmageAU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustin Mustangs View Post
I'm struggling a bit to follow this... Are you saying that any type of trim or subtrim on a tx will screw with the AS3X? Can you post a link to more discussion on this??
Sub-trim will not damage the AS3X, but should not be used to correct "mechanical" issues (like an under-performing tail).

These threads are for the 130X, but applies to the nano's AS3X chip as well (which arms with throttle).

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=462484

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=439521
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:26 PM   #302
jneher
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Default replace main motor/metal swash

I know this is probably a lame question but how does one go
about replacing the main motor?

Also, I broke on of the arms on the swash with the ball for attaching a
servo arm to it. I did this trying to get it on. I guess I'm really
ham handed with something this small. I'm thinking of getting a metal
swash so this doesn't happen again. Thoughts?

Thanks,

Jon
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:05 PM   #303
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Originally Posted by jneher View Post
I know this is probably a lame question but how does one go
about replacing the main motor?

Also, I broke on of the arms on the swash with the ball for attaching a servo arm to it. I did this trying to get it on. I guess I'm really ham handed with something this small. I'm thinking of getting a metal swash so this doesn't happen again. Thoughts?
To replace a motor, I unscrew the main board (to give some room and not impact the servo connectors) and push up with some pliers on the motor, (either side of the pinion). Then use the pliers to pull the motor out the top (do not remove swash - removing main blades is optional).

I have also been known to unscrew the left and right servos, but that's only required if you want to glue (liquid electrical tape) the motor in place (or remove glue from bad motor). Either way I never need to remove the servo pushrods from the swash.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:23 PM   #304
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Thanks Archmage,

Oh, I didn't realize one just stuck the motor in without screws. Maybe
just a drop of hotglue to hold it?

I was having bad vibration problems (tail vibrating sideways was a blur,
don't know where the vibration was coming from, it didn't used to do it and no
bad crashes) couldn't find anything else so decided
to level the swash (by changing the length of one of the servo pushrods) as
I wasn't able to get my blades both at 0 degrees of pitch when at 50%. I thought
that might have been causing the vibration.

Jon
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:05 AM   #305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jneher View Post
Also, I broke on of the arms on the swash with the ball for attaching a
servo arm to it. I did this trying to get it on. I guess I'm really
ham handed with something this small. I'm thinking of getting a metal
swash so this doesn't happen again. Thoughts?

Thanks,

Jon
Be aware, that the links that go on the balls, are one-sided - that is, one side the hole is bigger than the other. It's pretty hard to see, unless you have done it a few times. If you try to force the smaller sized hole, on the ball, you are pretty much going to break the ball off the swashplate. I've seen some pictures where people have actually painted a small white mark, on the outside, so they don't put them on backwards. If you are already aware of that, then yeah, might be heavy hands. I know that I have a bit of a problem, with a lot of the teeny-tiny stuff on mine, and I'm pretty used to working at the component level with surface mount electronics! Different ballgame, when pushing/pulling than simply "placing"...

If you put a turn on the servo pushrod, you need to go a full turn - a half turn will line up the "too-small" hole.

As for the metal swashplate, I have replaced the plastic one on 2 out of my 4 - one mSR X, and my Nano. I like the solid feel it gives, but the plastic, with silicone o-rings, is just about as solid. However, I do think the metal is a little more tolerant of crashes.

And yeah, a dab of hot glue should work with the motor - I am currently using a silicone caulk, but have used white glue, also. It's nice to have something hold it throughout any flying, but be able to give a little, if it takes a serious hit.

My opinion, nothing more...
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:53 AM   #306
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Default Better batteries!

So I got to test the new 200 mAh 35C batteries from Microheli today - with my Nano Mild brushless...

Massive difference! More power and no bog at all now, you can smack it around the whole flight now!

Haven't gotten hold of the new E-Flite 35C batts, so dunno how those compare...

Good stuff:
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:12 AM   #307
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Default Rubber Cement

I get rubber cement from the LHS...

Extra-strength 20-45 sec glue IC-2000

7.99 for 1 oz bottle (same size bottle as CA)

Opps...I guess I better look at dates and times before giving someone an answer LOL

Last edited by JonJet; 03-01-2013 at 11:16 AM.. Reason: add info
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Old 03-01-2013, 01:33 PM   #308
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Originally Posted by SHYguy View Post
So I got to test the new 200 mAh 35C batteries from Microheli today - with my Nano Mild brushless...

Massive difference! More power and no bog at all now, you can smack it around the whole flight now!

Haven't gotten hold of the new E-Flite 35C batts, so dunno how those compare...
I've been flying the MicroHeli 200mAh-35C for awhile now, and I love them. I had to take the label off because they were catching on the AirTime skids. And when I set it next to a stock 150 mAh battery, it became obvious where the capacity came from. The stock battery (top) weighs 4.1g, the MicroHeli battery (bottom) weighs 5.2g. I think the extra gram is worth it for the extra power and duration, but there's nothing magical about it.

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Old 03-01-2013, 01:43 PM   #309
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Are those Brother P-Touch labels that you are using to lable your packs? How well do they stick given the small surface area?
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:14 PM   #310
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Are those Brother P-Touch labels that you are using to lable your packs? How well do they stick given the small surface area?
I've had one come off, but it was a little big and went over the edge. The 1/4 inch ones fit between the ears, so that protects them.
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:50 PM   #311
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Default Easier way of zeroing swash-plate

I figured out an easier way of zeroing the swashplate while I was installing my MH power package. It came out rather on the positive side. I realized I don't have to adjust the links, I can just move the head up the shaft a little. I set TH to zero-pitch on the transmitter, loosened up the jesus bolts, put both blades on one side, and move thed head up until the blades are even. Then tightened up the bolts.

This probably won't work if it's negative, unless the head isn't pushed all the way onto the shaft.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:02 AM   #312
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Interesting idea. Might want to double check that your AR pin doesn't bind against the bracket at the top of its travel now. With 125% end points set in the Tx there is not a lot of room to spare at full cyclic and collective.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:25 AM   #313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dustin Mustangs View Post
Interesting idea. Might want to double check that your AR pin doesn't bind against the bracket at the top of its travel now. With 125% end points set in the Tx there is not a lot of room to spare at full cyclic and collective.
Good idea. Although I think the swash is in exactly the same spot, it was just the way the head was sitting on the shaft that caused the positive pitch.

I don't use 125% cyclic, but maybe I should! I've been at 100%/10% for a long time now.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:31 AM   #314
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Originally Posted by jneher View Post
Thanks Archmage,
Oh, I didn't realize one just stuck the motor in without screws. Maybe
just a drop of hotglue to hold it?
Yep, use a drop of some sort of removable glue to hold it. Some people don't use anything, but that doesn't seem right to me. This is a helicopter, people! If it's not glued it doesn't stay put. Hot melt will work, I use liquid electrical tape.

I don't unscrew the main board. I just disconnect the left two servos to make room. Either way works.
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:42 PM   #315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian James View Post
Guys, here are some tips from us here in Product Development. We've found that the Nano CP X is pretty darn durable, but if you crash, there is always the possibility that a part gets damaged. Below are some helpful tips if you are experiencing problems.


Break-in The main motor, tail motor, and included lipos need a few flights to break-in. During the break-in period, you may get a little tail wag, and the overall flight power/performance may be slightly lower than expected. As you get more flights on the helicopter, the motors and battery performance will increase.
You mean just a few hovering short flights?. How many?
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Old 03-25-2013, 09:00 PM   #316
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Another motor dead. Oh well i have 2 more and then im going brushless! Sucks i bought extra motors. This heli is great anyways, but i did get a new mcpx bl. It has super mini heli powers!
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:40 PM   #317
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My fs tool just stripped , so has anyone figured out what else fits ? What size socket it is? Please help. I need to take it off and straighten it but cant, i guess i put locktite on it , but even with heat noe my tool just spins, so im not sure another stock tool will work .
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:15 PM   #318
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Default 50 cent tool

You can search for it...have seen a tool on HF made from 2 quarters
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:26 PM   #319
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I had to search for it out of curiosity...

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=510659
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Old 03-29-2013, 10:39 AM   #320
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Thanks guys , that is good stuff, now
to find the right size drill bit, or cutter


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I had to search for it out of curiosity...

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=510659
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