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nano CP X Blade nano CP X Helicopters Information and Help


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Old 09-29-2012, 09:38 PM   #41
mediclavina
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The blade tracking on my Nano is off by approx 3mm. I already tried replacing the feathering spindle (thinking it might be bent) but still the same.

What other part should I check to fix the blade tracking?
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Old 09-29-2012, 09:45 PM   #42
Kendo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mediclavina View Post
The blade tracking on my Nano is off by approx 3mm. I already tried replacing the feathering spindle (thinking it might be bent) but still the same.

What other part should I check to fix the blade tracking?
Blades and blade grips could be a good start.
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Old 09-29-2012, 11:45 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mediclavina View Post
The blade tracking on my Nano is off by approx 3mm. I already tried replacing the feathering spindle (thinking it might be bent) but still the same.

What other part should I check to fix the blade tracking?
I found that a slight change in the main blade such as a twisst or bend or both) after a crash or an object that has pressed on it for a bit of time (laying on the table) has caused my blades to appear to be out of track.
I re-straightend the blade to get the tracking right again.

The same thing happens to the tail-rotor blade.
I bonked it in an inverted tail crash which resulted in one of the blades pressed out-of -alingment from the original track.
The whole tail vibrated untill I re-alighned it.
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Old 09-30-2012, 12:24 AM   #44
cfrankfly
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Originally Posted by draaioor View Post
i was wondering if i'm the only one who had to change the throttle with the pitch curve's and vice versa.. , my tx is a dx8i..

i first used the settings as mentioned in the manuel, st-mode1 resulted in a big crash into the sealing...
I also turned all the top swash plate links one turn to extend/level the Main Blades at Center Throttle/Pitch-Cyclic
I changed my throttle settings on my DX8 too.
Mode Settings:
N - 0,25,35,53,75% (for cruising the living room)
1 - all 65% (for faster forward flight / 3-D enabled)
2- all 100% (full power flight / 3-D enabled)
H- 0
The Expo I have set at
Rudder Switch setting
0- 50%
2- 25%
3- 100%
The 50% Expo is for flying around the living room (until I can roll and flip consistently)
I admit I fly better with the 25% Expo 'cause the darn heli is soooo quick and small !!!
I ALWAYS have a finger ready to kill the motor with TH (throttle-hold) in a likely crash.
(I ALWAYS fly over grass...)
BTW
I had a moment today when I picked up the heli after a crash and noticed that the Elevator servo appeared stuck ( I check the servos and blade grips by leveling the swash-plate/blades after crashing or landing...).
It was heating up rapidly (without making a sound)...
I quickly un-plugged the battery and found the servo too hot to touch.
Inspecting the servo drive-gear I found a tiny grain of debris that had lodged in-between the motor drive-gear and the servo-mechanics gear.
I removed the FOD (foreign object debris) and let the servo cool down to room temperature (I actually blew on it for a bit too).
Luckily the servo still worked.
The incident reminded me of a similar over-heated servo on the Blade 130X which I smelled just prior to its demise. The motor-drive gear melted-off of the shaft in that sad moment.
I hope the replacement supply chain catches up with the supply of new Nano's out there!
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Old 09-30-2012, 03:35 AM   #45
davethepitch
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Hello all

I use PlastiDip and these are some proven uses some which i have done

a) Hold the motor connectors on my 3 in 1 board where the white was.
b) Used it to hold the wiring joints where the white was.
c) Coat the inside of a canopy with it and i have seen people squash a canopy and it does not break.
d) Repairs to frames and landing skids.
e) I secure my skids into my microheli mCPX frame with it and i do not use the frame screws to hold the skids as the PlastDip acts as a shock absorber and adhesive.
f) Tou can even dip your skids into it and make them very durable.
g) You can easily remove PlastiDip without causing any damage as it dries like rubber.

Dave
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Old 09-30-2012, 05:06 AM   #46
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+1 on Plastidip!
very good product. besides fixing heliparts its proven handy to all kinds of things in and around the house.

cheers,
michael
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Old 09-30-2012, 09:28 PM   #47
thanasi
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im Googling plstidip
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Old 10-01-2012, 08:07 AM   #48
MtnBeeler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davethepitch View Post
Hello all

I use PlastiDip and these are some proven uses some which i have done

a) Hold the motor connectors on my 3 in 1 board where the white was.
b) Used it to hold the wiring joints where the white was.
c) Coat the inside of a canopy with it and i have seen people squash a canopy and it does not break.
d) Repairs to frames and landing skids.
e) I secure my skids into my microheli mCPX frame with it and i do not use the frame screws to hold the skids as the PlastDip acts as a shock absorber and adhesive.
f) Tou can even dip your skids into it and make them very durable.
g) You can easily remove PlastiDip without causing any damage as it dries like rubber.

Dave
I'm familiar with plastic dip and have been considering using it in many of the places you've described. How are you applying it? Are you using something like a Q-Tip on places wire joints and to hold skids on? Do you brush it on the inside of the canopy with a small paintbrush or pour it and then hang the canopy and let it drip out?
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Old 10-01-2012, 06:09 PM   #49
Jebsmith
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I use plastidip on many car components and the stuff isn't lite. It weighs more than paint for the same coverage. I am not saying it won't work, but you are adding weight for sure.
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Old 10-02-2012, 04:16 PM   #50
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I used it for the skids and love it! I do not have a scale but I cannot notice any difference in the performance. Now I would not plasti Dip the inside of the canopy though. I just think that would be too much weight.
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Old 10-02-2012, 04:49 PM   #51
LikeaNut
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you can mix it with the plasti dip thinner. by adding more or less you can adjust the plasti dip for your need. that way you wont add too much weight where not needed.

michael
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:24 AM   #52
cfrankfly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davethepitch View Post
Hello all

I use PlastiDip and these are some proven uses some which i have done

a) Hold the motor connectors on my 3 in 1 board where the white was.
b) Used it to hold the wiring joints where the white was.
c) Coat the inside of a canopy with it and i have seen people squash a canopy and it does not break.
d) Repairs to frames and landing skids.
e) I secure my skids into my microheli mCPX frame with it and i do not use the frame screws to hold the skids as the PlastDip acts as a shock absorber and adhesive.
f) Tou can even dip your skids into it and make them very durable.
g) You can easily remove PlastiDip without causing any damage as it dries like rubber.

Dave
I have "Liquid Electrical Tape" which dries like rubber electrical tape within minutes.
I already had some for those "tiny" electrical exposures.
Work great like the PlastiDip...
3-5 dollars anywhere.....
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:24 AM   #53
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+1 on Liquid tape ... its my 'miracle cure-all'
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:15 PM   #54
KYCHOPPER
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thanasi View Post
im Googling plstidip
Plasti Dip can be found at Home Depot and/or Lowes in the States. Many uses around the house, nevr thought about it much for heli use.
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:58 PM   #55
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Plastidip is Great stuff...
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Old 10-06-2012, 09:21 PM   #56
spiff72
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Default Canopy reinforcement theory

Hey everyone...

I was beating up on my Nano today trying to do some basic 3D in some wind, and it didn't go well.

I cracked/dimpled the canopy and a skid support.

When I brought it in, I fixed the skid with a drop of CA and a small piece of HS tubing. I also decided to "fix" the canopy with a couple pieces of scotch tape. When I brought it back out again, a couple of crashes later, I had a broken upper canopy mount.

The canopy actually was looking pretty good, though. The tape held, no dimples, but one small chunk did tear off around one of the lower canopy grommets. I have tried to CA the canopy mount pin back to the frame, but I haven't tried to fly it yet - no idea if it will hold through another crash.

I actually have a theory about the canopy - as flimsy as it is, I think it is the "crumple zone" on this thing. By taping it up, I stiffened it to a point where it didn't flex like it used to, and my crash broke the new weak link in the chain - the canopy mount pin!

I know this thing is tiny, but I wish the canopy mounts were replaceable like on the 120 SR (carbon rods). Now I need a new frame if my fix doesn't hold up (and a new canopy), and need to perform major surgery to replace that frame. It doesn't look all that difficult - just time consuming and probably tedious with all the tiny parts/screws.

On another note, I am shocked that the price of the canopy is twice that of the frame! I hate to think what they charge for that canopy by the pound!
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:07 PM   #57
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Be careful I used the liquid tape on the main battery wires of my mcpx let it dry a hour or more then used some heat shrink to hold them together. Shorted out a battery on the first use.
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Old 10-10-2012, 07:16 PM   #58
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Not even 10 flights and im having a jittering, not all flight but every now and then , please help. Its happening with all 4 of my batteries.
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:31 PM   #59
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Would you describe it as the "wet dog" shake while descending under light power?

I don't have my repair parts yet, but I am pretty confident that a bent/cracked main shaft.

Once I get all my new parts I will have a better idea of the source of the problem (I think a bent and/or loose feathering shaft was part of the cause).
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Old 10-10-2012, 09:38 PM   #60
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A weird thing if I forget and leave stunt switch set and flip off TH the little guy seems to have power loss just little glitches that even stop the tail. Even after upto speed it can happen.
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